I'm considering whether or not to upgrade my suspension with adjustable parts. I currently only have MeisterR coilovers and I just bought a drift works total hi as delete. What products for people think I should go for / consider?

I think Stephen has hit the nail on the head here, decide what you want to achieve and go from there, I would always buy the best your finances will allow, don't be tempted by cheap ebay rubbish, it's a Z32 after all!

I think Stephen has hit the nail on the head here, decide what you want to achieve and go from there, I would always buy the best your finances will allow, don't be tempted by cheap ebay rubbish, it's a Z32 after all!

 

I can tell you that :(

 

(There is a crack in it)

Who is made by? How old is it? What's happened to it? There's a thousand reasons that might be cracked, poor quality materials is simply one option. You never know what's occurred, the car, maybe not even yours , donnor part, may had had a crash.

Who is made by? How old is it? What's happened to it? There's a thousand reasons that might be cracked, poor quality materials is simply one option. You never know what's occurred, the car, maybe not even yours , donnor part, may had had a crash.

 

It has been through 2 mots on the advisory. No brand though I suspect it is from one of those Japanese part supermarkets of cheap stuff, doubt there has been a crash (of the car, maybe to the suspension) because I have had the whole front frame unearthed and is all straight.

 

Edited March 2, 20169 yr by Alic

I can tell you that :(

[ATTACH=CONFIG]94829[/ATTACH]

 

(There is a crack in it)

 

It's possible that if there is no sleeve inside that bottom mounting then the close contact of aluminium on a steel pin could have caused enough corrosion to occur to swell that aluminium mounting and crack it. Is it white and chalky around that mount?

As I say they may have come from a donnor car, they could be 10th hand. That being said they appear to have very little corrosion and adjustable preload. The only way to know is to remove one and see what's on it. You may well be right that they are cheap crap. Whatever the case I can tell you I wouldn't drive that car on them with that crack.

Scratch that, first pic is fairly mucky.

Gone off topic here a bit now sorry :oops:

So... Given I want to archive a nice stance, a decent ride and the tyre not scrubbing, what parts do I need? Also what are the top 3 or 4 trusted manufacturers?

I went for the rear arms supplied with my meister r suspension (cyberspeed) very pleased with them, good quality well engineered. Nice looking welds,nice finish on them. Need to find adjustable toe arms now though for a NA subframe.

Wouldn't worry bout it that shock looks more serious than what I was wafflin on bout if I was you ide be exercising my credit card and ordering some new shocks at least or coil overs there not as expensive as used to be, I wouldn't be drivin that either I had a shock break on a Toyota last year as I was going round a roundabout and the wheel bent under the car as I glided in front of an arctic scary stuff.

An arctic you say? Penguin? Iceberg? :lol:

I may have spotted a few penguins as well it was winter after all

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

I wish I still had the pics the car ended up looking like car off back to the future

So... Given I want to archive a nice stance, a decent ride and the tyre not scrubbing, what parts do I need? Also what are the top 3 or 4 trusted manufacturers?

 

Given I've only done 60 miles on these Lee, they have totally transformed my car, better handling and great ride(not to firm),and my car doesn't scrub my rear wheel on the arches any more when cornering hard;) and all this for just £1000 :)

The ride on my zed is pretty harsh, it currently has lowering springs, so I've just ordered new Meister zetaCRD coilovers. Hoping they help with the ride quality.

Lee, keep it simple mate.

 

First of all I WOULDNT lock out your hicas just that. The car is a ROAD car not a track weapon or drifter (where the argument around hicas delete is made). The HICAS (when properly working) gives you low-mid speed agility and high speed stability.

 

If you want to be able to get the correct geometry settings you need the following

 

FRONT Adjustable upper control arms - camber

FRONT adjustable tension rods - caster

Rear adjustable control arms - camber

 

That's effectively all you need for a road car. There are then NUMEROUS modifications to change various aspects of how the car feels/responds/behaves which can be done at a later time.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

*hicas just yet.

 

(Poxy auto correct)

Given I've only done 60 miles on these Lee, they have totally transformed my car, better handling and great ride(not to firm),and my car doesn't scrub my rear wheel on the arches any more when cornering hard;) and all this for just £1000 :)

 

So what parts are they and what's the manufacturer? I already have the coilovers

Lee, keep it simple mate.

 

First of all I WOULDNT lock out your hicas just that. The car is a ROAD car not a track weapon or drifter (where the argument around hicas delete is made). The HICAS (when properly working) gives you low-mid speed agility and high speed stability.

 

If you want to be able to get the correct geometry settings you need the following

 

FRONT Adjustable upper control arms - camber

FRONT adjustable tension rods - caster

Rear adjustable control arms - camber

 

That's effectively all you need for a road car. There are then NUMEROUS modifications to change various aspects of how the car feels/responds/behaves which can be done at a later time.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

*hicas just yet.

 

(Poxy auto correct)

 

You probably missed my other thread mate. The power steering was leaking badly, turned out to be the front to rear metal pipes. Tried to get them off to take to a hydraulics place but to do this, we had to heat the join between the pipe and high pressure pipe that it connects too. Sadly when doing that, the heat meant the high pressure pipe basically fell apart. So, rather than replacing all of that, I thought it'd be simpler to lose the hicas. Hence buying the drift works hicas removal kit.

Am I right in thinking that our cars share a lot of the suspension parts with other nissans, such as the R32 and the S13/14

I've seen suspension parts labelled for both Z32 and R32, never the S-series though

Am I right in thinking that our cars share a lot of the suspension parts with other nissans, such as the R32 and the S13/14

 

Sort of. Stock for stock there are differences between some. However most adjustable aftermarket stuff is the same.

Thanks dudes.

 

So, in a previous post, people mentioned to possibly stay away from solid joints, ie Midori style. No bushings etc unless I was going to use your car predominantly on the track. Obviously I would like a decently comfortable ride

 

Would the stuff the meisterR sell be much good?

 

http://www.cyberspeeds.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=77_123

Anyone?

 

What is it that makes suspension hard / crash? Is it the coilovers or the other bits, like control arms etc

Anyone?

 

What is it that makes suspension hard / crash? Is it the coilovers or the other bits, like control arms etc

 

Both. The choice of each will effect the result. Some more so than others.

My zed currently has a crashy ride. I'm hoping with the new coilovers & z1 FUCA's it will help make the ride more comfortable. If it doesn't then I'm back to square one, minus nearly £1000.