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time to start a thread now so wil have a go loads of pics to up load so will start with some parts i have

IMG-20130714-00443.jpg the car 100% uk stock when i got it ,

 

now in bits ready for paint SDC12498.jpg

 

sub frame before and after SDC12322.jpg

 

SDC12350.jpg

 

SDC12366.jpg

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yes i still have them as there full size am going to keep them in

am sure the breather mods are making the very most of that 6psi of boost. i and only imagine how it will run on full boost seems to me the breather mods i have done are a must but seems very few have this set up i will be adding bigger throtttle bodies to

That's certainly the case over here, stateside though lots of boys doing these "breather builds" many of them using E85 and 750 injectors. Big numbers coming out. There's a lad that's made 499.78WHP & 533.50WTQ on stock turbos, long list of other bits but that's crazy.

i would not have done this on stock 25 years turbos mind, but rebuild ones yes. just show how much the doing all the breather mods work. i do have some MS manifold be nice to have them on but there going on the new engine. and trying to fit them with the engine in it going to be hard work

Edited by dan300zx

so had the car running a few days now and been testing it inc a drive tonight so here is what i think so far of my car good and bad. the car goes well even on low boost the uprated stage 2 comp clutch still has a long 600miles bed in time left but its pretty easy to use and light. not to snatchy even with the fadanza fly wheel. the seats in the car are great comfy and hold you perfect 100% on them the steer wheels being smaller than stock is good nice feel. the 8 pot k sport brakes are mega really are some of the best brakes i have felt in a long time would not be with out them the koni damper and lowering springs and full polly bushes with the wider wheels 10j with 285 tyes and 8.5j with 245 tyres pilot sport the handing is a big suprise with this set up like night and day it glued to the road been pushing it in the twistys no role so flat 9/10 for improvment from stock didnt think it was going to handle this well. some things i dont like and going to change the front upper control arm there rose joints rite now along with tention rods going to swop them for z1 ones with polly bushes little bit harsh as time but like i said handles like its on rails. also with the polly bushes at time you can hear the diff but you dont really notice. there is a bit of back last with it all being polly bushed and that goes back up the one piece prop shaft i would think a 2 piece with help out here but i dont mind this 2 much you only get this in like 1st and 2nd at low speed at higher speed you dont get any. over all its pretty dam good so change the FUCA arms and tention rods and thats will do me if i was fussy i could well fit the 2 piece prop on for a little more play to help the lash. buts its fine for now.

Edited by dan300zx

its not a problem like am just tweeking the car now to make it better here and there

Let me know if you're out & about tomorrow mate I'll come meet you. Really wana see the car!

will do mate if am back from work not to late

just fitted the stilin duel maff set up the car starts but not yet drivin it will report back its in add mode set up

 

 

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forgot this pic you can see the filters through the mash looks cool

 

 

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forgot this pic you can see the filters through the mash looks cool

 

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]101659[/ATTACH]

 

Best build a shield for those they are gonna get wet real quick in the rain.....or just dont drive it in the wet

for the time i will be driving the car just here and there am not to worried i wont be going out in it in the rain like

so after a test run with the sillin in add mode as it should be the car run really rich soon as you open the throttle you get a AFR of 9.0 car stumbles even at motoway speed open the throttle at low rpm and get a reallly rich mix. you may well be able to add this to a stock car with add mode and it run ok but with all the breathing mods i have done this dont work so removed it till the time of bigger injectors are remap in a few weeks. run fine with the stock single maff and filter back AFR fine then, i did think with the extra maff if anything it would run lean anyhow was only a test.

so turns out the running rich was due to a faulty 2nd maf the one that was on the car was fine the 2nd one i got few months ago was not working i ran it on the car on its own and it over fueled fitted the original one back on and it was fine again i have a other maff now so will fit duel maff set up back on with the replacement maff and hope it should be ok this time

so the idle issues turned out to be the 2nd maff i had was duff when i fitted my first maf back on with a jtw filter the car ran fine then started funny idle turned out the new jtw filters i have came pre oiled and this killed the maff just used a whole can of degreaser and washing up soap getting the oil out of them there was lot the filters look blue thats the dam oil as a hour of washing out there now white

Edited by dan300zx

i had the same issues on the boxster a oiled filter killed the maff just used it dry for the little miles i will do in the car am keeping them dry will be fine.

Common practice to oil the foam filters like the big green HKS but ive never oiled a gauze and fibre filter on cars or bikes..

I found with the K&N filters they were far too wet from new, but after cleaning off the excess oil they didn't cause any more problems.

had the car out tonight turned the boost up 15 to psi AFR at wide open throttle was 10.5 so was getting plenty of fuel the car shifts big time like super car fast then went to about 17 to 18 psi AFR still 10.5 so was no were leaning out still a tad rich this was the chip i first put in the car when i got it am sure it is a basic jwt one bit top end a bit richer fk me the car set of like a stabbed rat was pulling hard all in gear was very shocked just how well it went the fastest car i have been in. in a long long time the numbers on the speed up came up very fast indeed it needs mapping now but was ran happy the way it was tonight for the set up and just a chip

Common practice to oil the foam filters like the big green HKS but ive never oiled a gauze and fibre filter on cars or bikes..

 

HKS filters are the dry type and are not designed to be oiled. HKS state replace every 6 months or 6K miles.

 

Be wary of HKS filters on eBay as a lot are not what they seem (ie fake).

Project 1547 - Out of the Blue

She's so fine, there's no tellin' where the money went - Simply irresistible.

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