What is a ideal Alloy size. I am currently considering the Rota Grid's

 

http://www.driftworks.com/rota-grid-drift-18-wheels.html but wondering is 9.5" front and 10" rear is being too ambitious. I was thinking ET 35 18" 10 wide for rear and 18" ET 20 9.5 for front. I do have upgraded brakes and expect this wheels would clear.

 

Also the question about 19" work and how do they look? Any pics and suggestions will be appreciated. I do not mind rolling the arches and camber adjustment etc. I do not want the camber to be out. Intend to use HSD Coil overs.

 

I am not fully decided on the Rota Grids and looking at other options.

You'll need some arch work to fit 9.5s @ ET 20 up front.

 

It really does depend on what style you go for. Some styles do look too big, but something with a nice dish usually doesn't, so it hides the fact a little. I run 19 x 9 ET 35 fronts and 19 x 10 ET 40 rear BBS LM

 

My arch lips are rolled at the back, but just the lips.

 

 

 

 

 

Pretty flush

 

 

I have 18x9 fronts and 18x10 rears with an offset of 22/25 respectively. I still need my rear arches rolling as the catch but once done they'll clear no problems.

 

 

 

18s look so much better 19s just look to big and kind of odd look at baz,s 18 just the rite size

Thanks to Funkysi and Baz, both your alloys look gorgeous. Funkysi is right I guess it would depend on the style of the wheel.

Si and Baz, what size tyres are you running front and rear there?

Can't remember Scott, I'll have to double check tomorrow. 225s and 255s I think

Si and Baz, what size tyres are you running front and rear there?

 

 

285 rear and 265 fronts. Profile is 30, front and rear.

I'm running 265/30/19 rear and 235/35/19 fronts.

Would 18" J 10 with the correct ET fit the front? Anyone tried?

19 x 9.5 et30 rear 19 x 8.5 et 25 for me

 

275/30 rear 245/35 front

 

General guide is 19s look a little too big on a swb but ok on a lwb. However as si said depends on the wheels design and also a lot on ride height. Mine is a swb on 19's make your own mind up

 

 

 

 

19 x 9.5 et30 rear 19 x 8.5 et 25 for me

 

275/30 rear 245/35 front

 

General guide is 19s look a little too big on a swb but ok on a lwb. However as si said depends on the wheels design and also a lot on ride height. Mine is a swb on 19's make your own mind up

 

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19s can work perfectly. :)

.....for those who are interested, I also highly recommend Pirelli P-Zero. The level of grip is fantastic and out of all the tyres I've run on my car (Bridgestone/Toyo/Falken), the P-Zero are the best yet, chasing JoelyP through the Gorge de l'ardeche in southern France last month, I was surprised at just how far I could push my Z. It didn't want to break out at all.

Edited September 29, 201510 yr by Funkysi

The pzeros are great si, however I ate through them in about 10k miles :( not just edge wear but even wear. Once they went down to the markers they became lethal. I changed them at 3mm for some farrrrrr cheaper tyres which are comparable to the grip I've had from say the falkens.

I do like the pzeros but the cost vs wear almost out weighs the grip.

The pzeros are great si, however I ate through them in about 10k miles :( not just edge wear but even wear. Once they went down to the markers they became lethal. I changed them at 3mm for some farrrrrr cheaper tyres which are comparable to the grip I've had from say the falkens.

I do like the pzeros but the cost vs wear almost out weighs the grip.

 

That's the trade-off you get with softer compounds. Mine should last me a good few years. It'll take me 4 years to do 10,000 miles! lol

chasing JoelyP through the Gorge de l'ardeche in southern France last month, I was surprised at just how far I could push my Z. It didn't want to break out at all.

 

You should have let me know and I would have got out of the way in that case!

 

.....for those who are interested, I also highly recommend Pirelli P-Zero. The level of grip is fantastic and out of all the tyres I've run on my car (Bridgestone/Toyo/Falken), the P-Zero are the best yet, chasing JoelyP through the Gorge de l'ardeche in southern France last month, I was surprised at just how far I could push my Z. It didn't want to break out at all.

 

Have you driven on them in the wet? How'd they fair?

have you driven on them in the wet? How'd they fair?

 

lol....no!!

.....for those who are interested, I also highly recommend Pirelli P-Zero. The level of grip is fantastic and out of all the tyres I've run on my car (Bridgestone/Toyo/Falken), the P-Zero are the best yet, chasing JoelyP through the Gorge de l'ardeche in southern France last month, I was surprised at just how far I could push my Z. It didn't want to break out at all.

 

Depends on the car - but yes; I'd rate the P-Zeros above those 3 all day long.....

 

.....Although having had P-Zeros on my old black SLK (which was a few years ago) I have to say that as good as they were, they could not shine a light to the Contis I replaced them with.....

 

But on my 2 Zeds, I have had Avon ZZ3s (fooking useless); Goodyear Eagles (amazing, but wear out in 5 minutes); Dunlop Super Sport (very good - and last reasonably well to boot); a budget brand (on the car when I bought it - and very quickly binned, even though they were almost new); and Conti SC3s (on the car now - and still excellent, despite the rears being almost on the wear indicator).

 

...I might give the Pzeros another try - on the Zed this time though - based on Si's recommendation....:cool:

dont over look the michelin super sport top of the pile :thumbup:

Edited September 29, 201510 yr by dan300zx

I've narrowed it down to the p zero and the Eagle f1 asymmetric. To be honest both good tyres but I find the f1's are far better in the wet.

You'll need some arch work to fit 9.5s @ ET 20 up front.

 

It really does depend on what style you go for. Some styles do look too big, but something with a nice dish usually doesn't, so it hides the fact a little. I run 19 x 9 ET 35 fronts and 19 x 10 ET 40 rear BBS LM

 

My arch lips are rolled at the back, but just the lips.

 

 

 

 

 

Pretty flush

 

 

 

 

Si, You mentioned I will need some fender work to fit the 9.5 upfront, what kind of fender work, would the inner guard need removing and also fender rolling? Also would I need to roll the fender in back with 10J's. Also would I need camber adjustment also in which case would you recommend the following?

 

http://www.driftworks.com/japspeed-nissan-200sx-s13-r32-300zx-rear-camber-arms.html

http://www.driftworks.com/japspeed-nissan-300zx-r32-skyline-front-camber-arms.html

 

Thanks for your good advise, to all the Zedders out there.

I've narrowed it down to the p zero and the Eagle f1 asymmetric. To be honest both good tyres but I find the f1's are far better in the wet.

 

I run Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2's on my zed, best tyre I have ever used. I ran the Eagle F1 GSD3's on my 205GTi & Honda Prelude (both FWD) a few years back and again were excellent but do wear quickly being a softer compound. I don't use my zed as a daily driver so this isn't an issue, but I assume the Asymmetrics would wear fairly quickly under everyday use.

 

P-Zero's I use on my BMW mainly as they are one of 2 runflats I can use and they are an excellent tyre, much better than the Bridgestone Potenzas which were on the car before. P-Zero's have long been a tyre of choice for performance cars but I find the Eagles have more grip in the wet (they just don't seem to aquaplane at all!!!) although the zx stays off the roads in the wet now.

 

Another tyre my friend swears by is the Continental/Uniroyal Rainsport, may be worth a look.

For me, 18's are as big as I'd wanna go on a z32. I had 19's on my previous z and they looked alright but in hindsight I think it's just a tad to big, plus I want some meat on the tires 'cause roads here suck ?

But it also depends on the style of the wheel as some said. A wheel with a bit of a lip or perhaps a stepped lip will often look smaller than it really is and vice versa

The reason being is that 9.5" is pretty wide for the front. You have to bear in mind that you will have clearance issues with the front struts, so you'll have to have quite an aggressive offset. You WILL need the fender rolling and you will have to do away with the arch liner.

 

I also would not recommend ANY solid joints for the suspension components, driftworks or otherwise. If you're going on the track sure, otherwise, stay the hell away. Horrible things for street cars. I ran Powertrix suspension arms for a while and the best thing I did was to take them off. Unless you're going to drag the car round on its ass, stock rear arms have enough compliance and adjustability. You could do yourself a favour and get Nismo bushings (high shore rating). The fronts I'd recommend Z1 Street Upper Control arms and Z1 Street adjustable tension rods.

 

Steer away from those solid joints and Midori type suspension components unless you're on first name terms with your chiropractor.

 

Si, You mentioned I will need some fender work to fit the 9.5 upfront, what kind of fender work, would the inner guard need removing and also fender rolling? Also would I need to roll the fender in back with 10J's. Also would I need camber adjustment also in which case would you recommend the following?

 

http://www.driftworks.com/japspeed-nissan-200sx-s13-r32-300zx-rear-camber-arms.html

http://www.driftworks.com/japspeed-nissan-300zx-r32-skyline-front-camber-arms.html

 

Thanks for your good advise, to all the Zedders out there.

Edited October 2, 201510 yr by Funkysi

"first name terms with your chiropractor" - LOL, I get the drift, thanks for your good advise.