Hi guys, would this fit my car?? Is this what I need to delete the Hicas??

Thanks..

Richie

It will fit your car and delete the hicas. It will also give you a lower gear ratio and reduce the weigh a little. The diff and drive shafts are a little bit weaker and you will need to change the rear joint on the prop. If you are still running the std 2 part prop you can swap this over as long as you are not mixing up a lwb with a swb. You will need to buy the complete sub frame assembly including the suspension, diff, hubs etc

Whats wrong with your hicas mate?

Thanks Dougal:thumbup1:

Gaz, I don't know if there's anything wrong with it but when everything else is being done I might as well delete it. It's just another thing that can go wrong:thumbdown:

Still love my hicas Richie and it is one of the extras that make the 300zx special.:yes:

Just remember doing this will mean you need to sort the speedo as the ratios are different. From memory you will save about 15-20kg and gain acceleration. What you will undoubtably loose however is traction esp in lower gears and top end but the top end thing is a red herring, very very very rarely would it ever be used.

Maybe I'll just get the Hicas delete kit from Driftworks, I can get a NA subframe with hubs etc but no diff for €100. I'd still have to get a diff and the prop joint.

How much would a NA diff and prop joint cost??

If you find a breaker buy all the bits from that check donor car has abs,

I have na rear on mine and it changed the car, feels much faster in any gear, actually made the car feel lighter probably due to gearing making it pull better,

I've also found the car much more predictable especially accelerating out of corners fast the back kicks out but much more controlled,

It's definitely worth doing and I'd never go back to hicas,

The speedo I took glass off dials and then used sat nav and correct the needles by twisting them a bit its been fine since...

I can get the full subframe with the exception of the diff for €100, that's €200 less than the Driftworks kit, is it worth buying the subframe and then trying to source a diff elsewhere?? Would a NA diff be expensive??

I wouldn't buy the frame without the diff, simply because most people selling them will want to sell the whole thing as it's more profitable. I think €200 without the diff seems steep to.

Ok so, I'll just get the Driftworks Hicas Delete kit.

Thanks for the help guys:thumbup1:

Driftworks IMHO is rubbish pal, I ordered it and the rose joints are utter rubbish, sent it straight back, won't fit driftworks to my car now. :thumbup1:

Ok so, does anyone have a NA diff??

You are not limited to a n/a diff

 

The na uses a r200 diff, the 300 uses an R230. The 200 was used in a lot more cars like skylines and 200sxs but be aware of the back cover and abs

 

You should pick up an n/a subframe complete for £250 which is about the cost of the driftworks kit

Driftworks IMHO is rubbish pal, I ordered it and the rose joints are utter rubbish, sent it straight back, won't fit driftworks to my car now. :thumbup1:

 

What in particular didn't you like about the rose joints? They just look like rose joints to me and are more substantial than the little hicas arms are stock.

I've got a full rear NA setup for sale Richie, got your name all over it :thumbup:

I've got a full rear NA setup for sale Richie, got your name all over it :thumbup:

 

PM me your best price Baz, something unforeseen came up yesterday and has me totally fecked for cash for the rest of the year:sad: I'm probably going to have to cancel all work on the Z till next year:thumbdown::scared:.I'll stay chipping away at the bits though :thumbup1:

I keep umm'ing and ahh'ing about fitting the NA rear to mine... on paper, it sounds like a good idea: faster acceleration, less weight. :)

 

Like Gaz, I keep coming back to the idea of keeping "standard parts" on mine though. My car's no slouch as it is and, as I'll shortly be going to a one-piece prop, I can't really be doing with the hassle of having to find a SWB NA one afterwards.

 

I'll probably continue to umm and ahh about it, but I reckon I'll always come back to keeping the setup I have at the moment. Especially as the Hicas arms and balljoints are getting renewed in a few weeks.

 

PS: sorry to hear about your sudden money woes, Richie! :(

Thanks Si, I have a choice of getting the Z done or sorting out my daily driver which is now needed, the way I'm looking at it is.. I've waited nearly 6 years for the Z to be done, what's another 6-8 months:sad:

No chance of using the Z as your daily for a few months?

Wouldn't be ready in time Jay, I've got a week to sort out the pickup as my dads sold his Pajero and needs the spare car back. Had the €1500 saved up for the mechanics to do everything on the Z but now it'll have to go on a second hand L200 engine.

What in particular didn't you like about the rose joints? They just look like rose joints to me and are more substantial than the little hicas arms are stock.

 

Basically the joints have threads which are formed when the part is cast, which means the threads are crap and VERY sloppy inside the adjusting nut, the inner bush of the joint isn't made the same width as the stock bush, they use a generic rose joint and fit a loose spacer either side depending where the joint is being fitted on the car, very cheap and nasty way of doing it.

The rose joints also had around 0.5mm of side to side play when new, any movement in a non lubricted part will wear out very quick.

 

I bought the cyberspeed setup along with the Meister r coilovers. These arms were WAY better than driftworks, rose joints were very well made!

 

this is my personal opinion as a motor mechanic/mot tester, I did read reviews before buying the driftworks items but I like to make my own mind up, and these just didn't impress me.

Cheers for that. It's your car at the end of the day. I don't think the drift works stuff is A1 but it's alright for the price IMO. I personally don't have any issue using it and it's popular track proven stuff. The SPL stuff is nice but silly money.