Was on the way to totb too.

 

So, car was driving fine, no problem at all. All of a sudden, misfiring and loss of power to a stop.

 

As it wouldn't rev very high we though it was the maf, unplugged it and the car seemed to start fine. But very rough and we've limped to somewhere safe.

 

So, when the car starts with the maf unplugged, if we plug it back in, the car dies. Won't start with it plugged in. We tried a known working maf from the other car and still the same, won't start with the maf plugged in. Also struggling to start anyway with I'm thinking could be the engine getting flooded.

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Many thanks,

Lee

compression test time

compression test time

 

Nah not yet. Air pressure test time and reset the ecu etc will be done before I even think about that. I don't think the engine would just let go at a gentle 45 mph in 5th gear.

I need to clear the error codes but my laptop doesn't seem to want to connect to the car with the engine not running. Sure it used to.

Should connect with just the ignition on

I know. This is a worry. The a guy was trying to connect to it so I hope he's not damaged it. I guess I could just disconnect the battery for a bit or pull the ecu out to reset the codes

Ok, tried putting some air through using a halfords tire pump since I can't move the car. Couldn't hear nothing. So, put some smoke matches through and sure enough, smoke came out from down near to the drivers side turbo.

 

The problem is that I can't see where. So Im guessing that it could be the accordion pipe. Could it be the turbo itself? I can't hear any air even when I stil some silicone tube down with one end in my ear.

 

 

The other issue is that I now don't seem to be able to connect to the consult port on my laptop when the car is on but not running and I certainly used to. I tried the wire trick which still flashes the dash with error code 12. I tried taking the ecu out for an hour, error code is still there. I'd have thought that would have reset the ecu. So, I now have the battery unplugged and I'm hoping that will reset the error codes. Anyone else know a manual way to reset the codes?

What would happen if the ECU was fried. Like is there any tell tale signs etc? Just thinking about the laptop not connecting all of a sudden.

Can anyone lend you an ecu to check lee.

Fairly sure the air con sub fan kicking in on a cold start indicates ECU failure. If you've got a big enough leak to see a good amount of unforced smoke from a smoke pellet it's probably a fair leak. Didn't you have an issue last year where the top pipe from the turbo split? Maybe it's happened again...

Have you done the plug up on ecu to tight the middle pulls in and ends bow out,

sure I remember reseting ecu by turning screw left and right a couple of times there is a sequence,

If acordian pipe has came off or leaking it will definitely run crap and sound like it's missing,

Once you unplug the maf it can't see the leak so will run some form of base map,

Clearing codes is very simple, but MUST be done after you make any changes to see if you actually fixed anything. If you don’t clear the codes, they’ll hang around forever and show up every time you run codes. A common misconception is that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will clear codes, but it won’t—this simply clears the ECU’s self-learn function, which is just a Base A/F tweak… you probably won’t even notice.

 

To clear codes, you basically enter and exit MODE II twice. There are three ways to do this:

1. At the ECU:*

a. Pull back the carpet in front of the passenger seat from the top (closest to the dash). It’s held in place with Velcro.

b. Remove the four 10mm bolts holding the wooden ECU cover down, and remove the wooden cover.

c. Turn the key to the “ON” position (don’t start it).

d. Turn the potentiometer on the ECU all the way to the right (clockwise). Don’t over-turn it, it doesn’t take much effort to turn at all, and the light will turn off.

e. Wait 3 seconds with it in this position, then turn it all the way to the left (counterclockwise). The light will start blinking codes. The CEL will also blink the same way.LED won’t turn off? This could mean the potentiometer is already moved to Mode II or partway in-between, or the car is running. Check for these things and try again after cycling the key.

f. Turn the potentiometer clockwise again, wait three seconds, and turn it back again. This will clear all codes.*

g. Turn the key off, and run codes again to ensure they’re gone.

 

2. Consult Pins (LED and CEL):

a. Locate the Nissan CONSULT Connector. It’s a gray connector on the driver’s side right next to the hood pull lever. If you can’t seem to find it, fish around behind the trim piece a little, as it may have popped off its post in the past.

b. Using a paperclip, or small wire, jump the connection between pins 8 and 9 on the Consult connector, as shown below:

On a few Zeds, it is not possible to connect to the Consult port until the engine is actually running. I was working with a K reg the other day with an alarm system (TOAD IIRC) and once the engine was switched off and the key returned to IGN on, Nistune would remain connected for approximately 15 seconds before automatically disconnecting. I have only come across 3 Zeds in total like this. With a different, older ECU (still 8 bit of course), it was subsequently possible to connect to Consult on IGN without the engine running. I've not really looked into it further.

Fairly sure the air con sub fan kicking in on a cold start indicates ECU failure. If you've got a big enough leak to see a good amount of unforced smoke from a smoke pellet it's probably a fair leak. Didn't you have an issue last year where the top pipe from the turbo split? Maybe it's happened again...

 

Checked that and the newer coupler is fine... But when I take that pipe off to look, that's then where the smoke comes out haha

Have you done the plug up on ecu to tight the middle pulls in and ends bow out,

sure I remember reseting ecu by turning screw left and right a couple of times there is a sequence,

If acordian pipe has came off or leaking it will definitely run crap and sound like it's missing,

Once you unplug the maf it can't see the leak so will run some form of base map,

 

Tried unscrewing and screwing it back in, still nothing. Also that's for the resetting ecu instructions, I forgot to put up that I'd managed to do it last night. The ecu doesn't have the screw so was done by shorting the pins on the consult plug.

 

Might crack the ecu open and see if there's anything glaringly obvious. Still need to check the fuel pump hasn't dislodged or something. I can't even hear it prime when I put the key in

On a few Zeds, it is not possible to connect to the Consult port until the engine is actually running. I was working with a K reg the other day with an alarm system (TOAD IIRC) and once the engine was switched off and the key returned to IGN on, Nistune would remain connected for approximately 15 seconds before automatically disconnecting. I have only come across 3 Zeds in total like this. With a different, older ECU (still 8 bit of course), it was subsequently possible to connect to Consult on IGN without the engine running. I've not really looked into it further.

 

It's certainly connected before with the engine off mate

Can anyone lend you an ecu to check lee.

 

Would be an idea, only problem is, the car has 740cc injectors so would another ecu be ok? Or do you mean to just go ignition on and try the consult port?

Focus on one thing at a time mate. By all accounts you've identified a possible leak. Rectify that then move onto any other faults that are present. Trying to identify the true cause of the issue while trying to rectify several potential causes at once will just leave you chasing your tail

My problem is that if I take the turbo outlet pipe off the top of the turbo, that's then where the smoke comes out. Probably need to find something to block the turbo outlet and then see if I can spot anything.

Have you fixed it yet?

Have you fixed it yet?

 

Hope. Struggling to find this air leak. I'm still not convinced it's that to be honest but might be.

The only other intake / air piping there would be the accordion pipe I would think.

Do a proper boost leak test mate. If it doesn't hold pressure, then you know you have a leak

Well, its hard without a compressor. Still don't think its that (maybe against my better judgement).

 

However, I think there maybe light at the end of the tunnel. I'll be back

UPDATE

 

Right, I've found the initial problem. Fuel pump. BasIcally it had slipped down the bracket a little and the fuel hose popped off at the top. I've sorted that and the car started. The problem is, it's mis-firing terribly. As if it's only running on a couple of cylinders. Would still be undrivable

UPDATE

 

Right, I've found the initial problem. Fuel pump. BasIcally it had slipped down the bracket a little and the fuel hose popped off at the top. I've sorted that and the car started. The problem is, it's mis-firing terribly. As if it's only running on a couple of cylinders. Would still be undrivable

 

go over the things you have disturbed prior to finding the pump fix...boost pipes,ecu,injector clips ect.