So for a start, did another boost leak test yesterday, It still seams to be coming from the back at the top. got underneath it and the turbo's sound fine.

 

It appeared to be coming from this thing (red circle)

 

 

 

there was some oil around the bolt that was rippling in the breeze (from the boost leak I'm assuming) but no amount of soapy water was making any bubbles, although it was slightly muffling the sound when the rush was around it.

 

Tried tightening both sides which seemed to help a bit, but still didn't stop the leak.

 

Also I was wondering what the thing is the green arrow is pointing too?

 

 

after boxing it all backup after drove it home and it was all ok (or as it was), took it for a spirited drive last night to the cinema and was also fine, no change.

 

Then today making the most of the sunshine I took the roof off and took it for a drive to buy myself some fish (for a tank not to eat) seemed to be performing fine still, no different from any other time. When I pulled up at the shop and knocked it off I could hear a hissing sound from around the same area that the boost leak seemed to be coming from yesterday. But the engine was off, checked around for some leaks and couldn't find any. everything seemed dry around the area, although it was very hot.

 

Anyway thought I'll just have a look when I get back, so went and bought my fish, checked around the car for any signs of fluid before setting off none to be seen so off I went.

 

No more than a mile down the road I notice my temp gauge is getting dangerously close to the red. So I pulled over in a pub car park panicking, turned the engine off and popped the bonnet to let it cool. After about 15mins checked the gauge and it had dropped a lot, looked no higher than what I would normally expect after a drive, So I braved opening the radiator cap, and there wasn't any coolant to be seen, only wisps of steam.

 

I managed to get a jug of water from the pub, got a full jug in I think about 1 litre, and then got another half in after before it started overflowing, all the time I'm squeezing the radiator pipe to bring some bubbles out. left it for another 20mins or so while trying to fit as much water in as I could. The kitchen staff in the pub gave me a 2 litre bottle to take with me just incase and then I braved the drive home.

 

I didn't take it over 3 grand of revs the whole way home, and had the heaters on full wack, but the temp didn't seam to go above what I would normally expect.

 

And when I got home there was no hissing again.

 

It's been on the drive now for atleast an hour cooling while I've introduced my fish to the tank. going to go check the water level now and see if I can see anything suspect.

 

Anybody have any insight?

 

My guess for the hissing is probably a water pipe that we disturbed yesterday so I'm guna tighten some hose clips at the back. as for the boost leak though I've no idea, my mate thinks we should remove the plenum, ut I've got a feeling that could cause more problems than it'll fix.

just to help with the photo, they appear to be pipe exits, one either side of the engine (left and right) they look like they go through the bulkhead, but I could be mistaken it is very tight.

 

The photo is taken from the passenger side with me leaning over the battery.

Can't work it out sorry bud :( Hope you get it sorted :clover:

VTC Variable timing control, sit at back of rocker covers, seal around it maybe leaking bud.

I bet the air is leaking from the EGR valve (small vac pipes going to it) at rear of lower plenum.As for the water leak it does sound like one of the 2 matrix pipes but looking at that pic ide be pulling the plenum off and redoing all rubber pipes (water and air).Good excuse for a full water pipe delete while its off too:cool3:

Jeff deleted the EGR before Christmas, I can only assume all the pipes would of been blocked off too.

 

I've had another look and yeah I was wrong saying the red circle is a pipe, I can see now its a sender of some sort, it's got a cable coming off it.

 

As for the water leak I've found it, low and behold it's in the same place we we're digging about yesterday,

 

 

Strange thing is we never removed that hose, or the touched the clip as far as I can recall. I can actually hear it hissing when I squeeze the rad hose. can't seem to feel a split though, it's as if it's passing the clip.

 

I can't seem to get anymore turns on the screw with my driver, it's in danger of rounding off, and can't get a socket head on far enough to get enough purchase to turn it.

 

I'm debating taking the clip off and replacing with a jubilee clip, Or if that fails dare I say k-seal?

 

Where does the other end of the hose go?

 

If the plenum comes off, will that hose be accessible? or is that an engine out job? how hard is the plenum to take off? is there a how-to?

If its a heater matrix pipe the best thing to do is loosen the jubilee clip, slide it up the pipe on the good side. Cut the pipe, and put a jubilee clip on the other side, lubricate a piece of metal tubing, 15mm, and fix in place with the two jubilee clips and get hotfoot down to Jeffs

 

I did that from Filey and that temporary fix did it's work to get me down to Jeffs. You may need to bend the pipe to fit

If its a heater matrix pipe the best thing to do is loosen the jubilee clip, slide it up the pipe on the good side. Cut the pipe, and put a jubilee clip on the other side, lubricate a piece of metal tubing, 15mm, and fix in place with the two jubilee clips and get hotfoot down to Jeffs

 

I did that from Filey and that temporary fix did it's work to get me down to Jeffs. You may need to bend the pipe to fit

 

The hose looks to be on as far as it'll go, due to the little branch coming off. and I've no idea where the other end is.

 

Jeff's is a 3 hour drive, and twice within 6 months is an expensive doo, although I don't fancy getting halfway through the job on my drive and realising I haven't the means to finish it, or worse still I finish the job, plenum off, all new gaskets seals and hoses and realise I've gone and given it another leak water and/or air.

 

I would like to have the plenum off though and give it a polish, would be a shame for someone to go to all the effort of getting it off and it going back on in the sorry state it's in now.

The other end goes to the matrix through the bulkhead, probably have a split or pinholes in the pipe, best to replace the pipe and new clips.

It is a pain where it is but its doable, without losing too much skin lol

Turns out it's not fro the hose, I removed the clip and replaced with a jubilee, that obviously didn't work, so pulled the hose back a bit and did the washing up liquid bubble test, and it turns out it's actually on the join of the little branch.

 

 

I've got a video of some bubbles ut due to vimeo been shit it's gunna be another 30mins

 

Here's the link anyway

 

 

Now am I been silly for suggesting k-seal or Rad-seal or some other sealer here?

 

It'll only be a temp fix, but it's not the first time the zed's had some, and that was when I first bought it, and that's been fine since.

Don't use any coolant hole blocking treatment mate. For some it temporary provides a fix and for others can completely bugger the ways system. You now know what it is mate, get a wanted thread open and fix it with a replacement.

Turns out it's not fro the hose, I removed the clip and replaced with a jubilee, that obviously didn't work, so pulled the hose back a bit and did the washing up liquid bubble test, and it turns out it's actually on the join of the little branch.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]79421[/ATTACH]

 

I've got a video of some bubbles ut due to vimeo been shit it's gunna be another 30mins

 

Here's the link anyway

 

 

Now am I been silly for suggesting k-seal or Rad-seal or some other sealer here?

 

It'll only be a temp fix, but it's not the first time the zed's had some, and that was when I first bought it, and that's been fine since.

 

Theres another pipe below that without half of the wire clip (nut and bolt part)...upper and lower plenum off to replace them metal pipes ime affraid...held to the block by 2 x 6mm bolts and need jointing compound on the mating surfaces..IIRC it can be done without taking lower plenum off but need patience and small hands.

For now use some chemical metal, drain fluids first, then when you get the chance off with the plenum and get it replaced

So for a start, did another boost leak test yesterday, It still seams to be coming from the back at the top. got underneath it and the turbo's sound fine.

 

It appeared to be coming from this thing (red circle)

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]79416[/ATTACH]

 

 

there was some oil around the bolt that was rippling in the breeze (from the boost leak I'm assuming) but no amount of soapy water was making any bubbles, although it was slightly muffling the sound when the rush was around it.

 

Tried tightening both sides which seemed to help a bit, but still didn't stop the leak.

 

Also I was wondering what the thing is the green arrow is pointing too?

 

 

after boxing it all backup after drove it home and it was all ok (or as it was), took it for a spirited drive last night to the cinema and was also fine, no change.

 

Then today making the most of the sunshine I took the roof off and took it for a drive to buy myself some fish (for a tank not to eat) seemed to be performing fine still, no different from any other time. When I pulled up at the shop and knocked it off I could hear a hissing sound from around the same area that the boost leak seemed to be coming from yesterday. But the engine was off, checked around for some leaks and couldn't find any. everything seemed dry around the area, although it was very hot.

 

Anyway thought I'll just have a look when I get back, so went and bought my fish, checked around the car for any signs of fluid before setting off none to be seen so off I went.

 

No more than a mile down the road I notice my temp gauge is getting dangerously close to the red. So I pulled over in a pub car park panicking, turned the engine off and popped the bonnet to let it cool. After about 15mins checked the gauge and it had dropped a lot, looked no higher than what I would normally expect after a drive, So I braved opening the radiator cap, and there wasn't any coolant to be seen, only wisps of steam.

 

I managed to get a jug of water from the pub, got a full jug in I think about 1 litre, and then got another half in after before it started overflowing, all the time I'm squeezing the radiator pipe to bring some bubbles out. left it for another 20mins or so while trying to fit as much water in as I could. The kitchen staff in the pub gave me a 2 litre bottle to take with me just incase and then I braved the drive home.

 

I didn't take it over 3 grand of revs the whole way home, and had the heaters on full wack, but the temp didn't seam to go above what I would normally expect.

 

And when I got home there was no hissing again.

 

It's been on the drive now for atleast an hour cooling while I've introduced my fish to the tank. going to go check the water level now and see if I can see anything suspect.

 

Anybody have any insight?

 

My guess for the hissing is probably a water pipe that we disturbed yesterday so I'm guna tighten some hose clips at the back. as for the boost leak though I've no idea, my mate thinks we should remove the plenum, ut I've got a feeling that could cause more problems than it'll fix.

 

 

what you have circled in red is the VTC solenoid for the variable valve timing.

 

On the other photos, you have a small water pipe coming off the main water channel that runs from your thermostat to the heater matrix behind the dash, looks like the weld has come away and so is leaking.

 

Do you know if its the left hand or right hand water pipe (standing facing the engine from the front of the car) as one can be changed half way, the other needs the lower plenum removing which means cam-belt off, or see if you can get it welded. You could try Hard and fast, its a metal epoxy and sets hard as nails.

 

Just to clarify both of the metal pipes can be changed without removing the plenum the passenger side one is the easier one but the drivers side one although a complete arse is doable.

 

Jeff TT

Thanks guys, I want to say it's the passenger side one.

 

I never even thought of chemical metal. There's loads in a store at work so I'll see if I can get some today, not sure on the brand, it's in two parts, one in a black tub, and one in an orange tub.

 

Definitely not happy about removing the timing belt, Jeff just did that before Christmas too, would that be the case if I were to replace the rocker cover gasket?

 

As for the boost leak though, guessing I've no choice but to remove the plenum?

No, just the upper plenum comes off. The lower plenum can be left in place. There's no need to even remove the cam belt covers iirc. If those rocker gaskets need doing and that water pipe it's going to be significantly easier to do it with the plenum off.

 

I've done the passenger side heater matrix hard pipe in situee before myself and it wasn't fun, how you do the drivers side I'd be interested as I swear it bolts up down the front? Off the water pump or something. It's been a while.

I've done the passenger side heater matrix hard pipe in situee before myself and it wasn't fun, how you do the drivers side I'd be interested as I swear it bolts up down the front? Off the water pump or something. It's been a while.

 

 

 

Here is how, from last year:

 

 

Anyone who has worked or tried to work down the back of the zed engine knows that the space between the bulkead and the engine is at a premium. Unfortunately there are a lot water pipes down there and when they need attention it cam be a royal pain but even the metal water pipes from the engine to the heater matrix can loose the corrosion battle.

 

The pictures give a little indication what is involved to remove the steel pipes, with the exception of the missing skin of the back of my hand but hey that goes with the territory!

 

Could not take a picture when my hands were down there but believe me it was tight to get the drivers side pipe fixings as they turn back into the engine, and of course getting them back in.... that`s another story!

 

If you fancy having a go at this job move as much of the loom that you can and the battery cable to the starter motor, locking the bonnet right back is essential too, I use a foam lie down slab and end up liying down on the engine its works for me anyhow.

 

Jeff TT

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 19, 201411 yr by JeffTT

Jeff ime sure you can change the plugs without removing the coil packs going on your tech threads but to the average Joe with the spanners even you must think its easier with the plenum off and more so after its already had the deletes done:wink:

Well tried two avenues, my mate got me a new pipe, and I got some belzona chemical metal, so bit the bullet and took the old pipe off. decided to strengthen the new one with some of the emetal, just waiting for it to cure before we fit it.

 

 

there's the little pin hole that caused all the problems.

 

And here's the new pipe

 

 

hopefully should have it all back together soon.

well, all fitted, and bled, seems to be fine, haven't took it for a drive yet, but got it up to temp and seemed to bleed ok, gunna take it for a deserving drive tomorrow.

 

Still got the boost leak though, so how on earth do I fix that if it is coming from the VTC???

so how on earth do I fix that if it is coming from the VTC???

 

 

The unit can be removed by undoing the 10 mm bolts, unplug and pull it out slowly, clean the surfce and apply a bead of sealant in the groove and carefully refit, do not be tempted to over tighten the bolts, this does not make the seal only holds it in place.

 

Jeff TT

Isn't there an '0' ring on the Vtc solenoid?

 

How bad is this boost leak? The only reason I ask is you won't actually be effected by this on boost. The PCV valve closes and reverses airflow through the breather system, when on boost so the air is passively vented through the front ones on the cam cover, it's not sucked out or anything by force.

 

Try as Brian says getting some spray on leaky area on the engine whilst idling and see if the revs rise. If they don't it probably isn't actually a concern. When your boost leak testing what psi are you testing at? You could be causing the leak by adding an excessive amount of pressure to the system. In theory under normal running conditions those seals should never see more than like 1psi of positive pressure, off boost they're experiencing say 5 to 7 psi negative pressure.

It's that bad that it can't even build up pressure. Maybe 2bar at the most. It's leaking that much.

 

Actually tried tightening the two 10mm bolts on Saturday. I thought it made it sound a little quieter, but I could of just imagined it. If it has an o ring and it's perished I could get another from work no bother. I thought it would be a plennum off job. Will be chuffed to bits if it's not.

 

My idea was to get it remapped by noz, but thought it was pretty pointless with a massive boost leak. The negative pressure is definitely affected. I can see that from the gauge on tic over.

 

I'm assuming it wouldn't make any difference if I was doing the leak test with the ignition on or not?

The unit can be removed by undoing the 10 mm bolts, unplug and pull it out slowly, clean the surfce and apply a bead of sealant in the groove and carefully refit, do not be tempted to over tighten the bolts, this does not make the seal only holds it in place.

 

Jeff TT

 

When you say sealant Jeff, is silicone OK? I imagined it would need to be some special heat resistant stuff.

When you say sealant Jeff, is silicone OK? I imagined it would need to be some special heat resistant stuff.

 

Yes thats fine.

 

 

Jeff TT