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So I've had a pesky oil leak for some time now, it's got to be dealt with. Sadly it's in just about the worst place possible, the oil filter tree. So today I started, I've learnt a few things already.

It's damn near impossible to remove the top bolt of the starter motor without a 1/2" UJ, I say damn near, I did manage it.

Next up the top two down pipe bolts also require a 1/2" UJ (guess what I'm off to halfords for tomorrow afternoon)

In summary, the actuator arm completly blocks the top bolts of the filter tree, and the bolts to remove the actuator are also in a PITA location, hopefully removing the water pipe will allow access.

 

Found this worrying oil deposit though...I immedidately thought turbo failure, however I seem to remember that the turbo can't leak like that. So I assume it's from the other leak, but I dunno....

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Taking the time getting the starter and downpipe out, I recon was invaluable. The top rear bolt can be accessed from the rear and your arm is happily in the space where the downpipe was, (the starter has to come off to get to the top bolts on the downpipe)

I take it from the picture you used some sort of sealant on refit? I haven't as it doesn't say anything about it in the manual, also I didn't have any in stock. All im worried about now is the tree being on square etc as obviously there's not enough space to torque them up. I just nipped all four up, then tightened them off, there about 12-15ftlb the FSM recommends I believe, which isn't much.

Actuator clip and 10mm securing bolts still to go.....not looking forward to that I'l be honest.

To be honest I done a complete engine rebuild a few year ago after my main bearings went, I stripped everything including the oil filter housing and refitted using the nissan gasket as manual shows.

However this failed, so speaking to a good mechanic friend about the failure he suggested not using the gasket in case the mating faces aren't square to each other.

He gave me the sealant which he uses on race engines that he builds, so I went that direction.

Hope I haven't given you a dilemma.

  • Author

:sweatdrop: actuator back on, that's was a royal PITA. Took me, half maybe to wiggle that top bolt in to begin threading it in, dropped it 100 times in the process, the actuator pin was a piece of piss lol.

Nearly done then Steve. It feels good once the actuator is bolted on, it's that top bolt I just couldn't get my hand up their to turn it, like you lost count the times drop the bloody thing, hence the idea of sticking the bolt to my finger to stop it dropping.

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Oddly I was using my left hand, then tried the right and got it fairly shortly after... Odd really.

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Got the Downpipe back on tonight, soooooo much easier with the right tool. I'm short a 35mm long m10x1.5 bolt from the starter, sorted that though, I removed that silly bracket from the aircon which gained me 3 m10 bolts, too long with took much shoulder, but I can modify them, no problems. Oh and saved like 200grms in the process.

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Lol, it's the fur in top ATM mate. It's like a bloody mushroom, beard is required for confined spaces as previously discussed.

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Damn blast and feck! It leaks, leaks like a sieve! Currently in the process of tearing it down, much faster this time hopefully. Gotta get some RTV from halfaurds. Can I/should I re use the brand new gasket, with the RTV?

For a price of a gasket get a new one or it wood be ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ing Zeds

  • Author

Yeah, except very best that gasket won't be here till Wednesday. Which will leave me doing the job in Friday night before japfest....

Damn blast and feck! It leaks, leaks like a sieve! Currently in the process of tearing it down, much faster this time hopefully. Gotta get some RTV from halfaurds. Can I/should I re use the brand new gasket, with the RTV?

 

Hi Steve, that's not good sorry to hear it.

I didn't use the gasket at all just the gasket sealant and all seems to be ok, just be aware that you have to get the bolts tightened up fairly quickly otherwise the sealant will dry and unlikely to seal as intended.

Use the highest temperature gasket sealant you can get.

  • Author

Yeah I got hold of some 350 degree copper stuff made by Loctite, im going to re use the gasket combined with the gasket. Dry time is 15 minutes, so im going to start with the top one lol, the other three are easy in comparison. Get them nipped up and tweak them off afterwards.

Had a good chat today with Jimmer over the issue and I've got a few things to look at on his recommendation, really helps to be able to speak to a proper zed mechanic at times.

Tomorrow should see the damn thing back in suite and then theres just a few other annoyances to deal with before Saturday.

Hopefully see you Saturday then, be arriving about 7ish, with two other zeds who aren't club members.

We are all within about 10 mile of coombe so get abit of lie in.

  • Author

Right this morning I measured the depth of the block thread and the thickness of the lobe on the tree, the two bolts of roughly the same size were roughly 2mm too long, this after the gasket thickness leaves a gap between the two mating faces of 1mm. That doesn't sound right...so I cut 3mm off, chamfered the head and ran a die down the tread.

Then reassembled the whole lot with copper RTV, got them all done up. Actuators back on, but that will do for today I've got too much to do elsewhere round the house.

Fingers crossed for you mate.

Hats off for your perseverance, it must be very frustrating in such a confined and awkward space.

Hope you have solved it this time.

  • Author

Yeah, very much fingers crossed. Hopefully after work tomorrow il get it fired up again and we will be ok. Really dont want to drive anything but the zed to japfest, il still be there to talk to everyone and perform my duties in the morning.

Yeah, very much fingers crossed. Hopefully after work tomorrow il get it fired up again and we will be ok. Really dont want to drive anything but the zed to japfest, il still be there to talk to everyone and perform my duties in the morning.

 

Sounds like you have cracked it Steve with trimming the bolts:yes:

  • Author

I'm shocked it sealed as well as it did. More bodged work from the derby based scrapyard. I'm not counting my chickens just yet though lol, I was confident last time...

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