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Hopefully all being well I should have the entire of sunday to fit the miesters i bought months ago. What i have so far are the coilovers and the front and back adjustable camber arms. After browsing the forum didnt really find anything that was a step by step guide apart from the one on z1 motorsports. which i didnt quite understand maybe cause im uber tired writting this, anyways any hints and tips.? what else will i need? read that the tension rod would need to be replaced? is that a must or preferred? thinking of going dirty low :chris: for now and taking it from there

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Changing the shocks is easy. You only need to undo top two and the bottom one and they will all come out. Removing the boot lining and getting the car in the air takes longer. There is a small nut that holds the brake line captive to the front obviously undo thus too.

Once you have the shock unbolted simply push down with your foot on the hub face and the shock will come free. Might take a little wiggling, an assistant Is helpful.

Once your ready to drop it back on the groud, make sure you drop it onto something or you may find the jack gets stuck haha. I would start higher then drop it lower as you go, easier to drop down a bit safely safely than drop loads and find it rubs and spedthe afternoon going up a bit up a bit nope still rubs up a bit. You get my drift.

  • Author
Changing the shocks is easy. You only need to undo top two and the bottom one and they will all come out. Removing the boot lining and getting the car in the air takes longer. There is a small nut that holds the brake line captive to the front obviously undo thus too.

Once you have the shock unbolted simply push down with your foot on the hub face and the shock will come free. Might take a little wiggling, an assistant Is helpful.

Once your ready to drop it back on the groud, make sure you drop it onto something or you may find the jack gets stuck haha. I would start higher then drop it lower as you go, easier to drop down a bit safely safely than drop loads and find it rubs and spedthe afternoon going up a bit up a bit nope still rubs up a bit. You get my drift.

 

nice one bud i, i made that mistake once before with car stuck on jack lol..... so thats straight forward what about installing the camber arms, rears should be simple and its the front ones that have differences as to which direction the long sides go, not sure if it make a difference

Just set the arms up at the lengths of the stock ones, then get the car lazer aligned. There's a tread on here that jimmer set out the difference on the FUCA I think.

if they are nice and rusty make sure you get a blow torch on them as tearing the heads of the bolts isnt a hard thing to do...plenty of heat!

 

oh and if you going to messing with the ride height you will need adj camber arms as you have bought and will also need adjustable rear Toe (if you have a N/a rear end) if not your lockout bar or hicas rod ends will be able to be adjusted for the changes in Toe.

  • Author
Got these fitted to my black zed and fairly easy to fit.

 

Just takes time to raise and drop each end if your doing it on the drive, also the time to strip the rear internal panels to expose the bolts.

 

interior was stripped when i bought the tiens and that was way before the group buy for the miesters! :)

 

Just set the arms up at the lengths of the stock ones, then get the car lazer aligned. There's a tread on here that jimmer set out the difference on the FUCA I think.

 

ok simple enough, is ats a good place for alignment?

 

if they are nice and rusty make sure you get a blow torch on them as tearing the heads of the bolts isnt a hard thing to do...plenty of heat!

 

oh and if you going to messing with the ride height you will need adj camber arms as you have bought and will also need adjustable rear Toe (if you have a N/a rear end) if not your lockout bar or hicas rod ends will be able to be adjusted for the changes in Toe.

 

yup camber arms on hand !! and its a tt manual and i havent locked the hicas, would i have to if im dropping it right to the arch or lower. guessing i will.

No you wouldn't have to lock it, you would just have to have it aligned which you would have anyway with your camber arms.

Hopefully you will have purchased the adjuster extension cables for the rears - so you'll have to drill holes in your boot trim for the little dials to protrude through......

 

.....Probably the simplest part of fitting the kit; but a bummer if you didn't buy them, as you'll not be able to adjust the rear damping without removing all the boot trim:wink:

 

And after you have done it, go and have a full 4 wheel alignment set up done. Then enjoy the car even more!

 

Richard:cool:

I have something to say............ It's better to burn out than to fade away..... :tt2:

  • Author
Hopefully you will have purchased the adjuster extension cables for the rears - so you'll have to drill holes in your boot trim for the little dials to protrude through......

 

.....Probably the simplest part of fitting the kit; but a bummer if you didn't buy them, as you'll not be able to adjust the rear damping without removing all the boot trim:wink:

 

And after you have done it, go and have a full 4 wheel alignment set up done. Then enjoy the car even more!

 

 

Richard:cool:

 

interestingly enough i was wondering what would be the best and less messy way of adjusting the dampers without having to drill big or obvious holes in the panels. just had a look and couldn't find them on ebay. anywhere else i can buy them from?

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