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  • We did a video earlier this week, the Z hasn't been out the garage since July 2020. So happy for this, this is miles away from professional video, and the guy who helped me with the drone and editing,

  • hedgehog dodger
    hedgehog dodger

    here are some pictures no wear on the interior like new.Standard exhaust and wheels

  • To finish of took her out of the garage for a good clean and polishing…then put her back ?    and there she’ll sit the near as dam it 700bhp beast ?

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  • These parts turned up from Specialty-Z today. Last significant items for the "bolt on" build. I'll post some more pictures of all the stuff I have collected over the years (literally!) in the "Project

  • RichardS
    RichardS

    Today nothing, but I did take the Zed out for a little drive the other day - and stopped for a couple of pics. Any excuse 😉 

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Busy couple of days. Changed the clutch and sorted a few bits out underneath.

 

Undersealed the tunnel and sanded down then resprayed the ARB and mounts as well as the gearbox mounting brackets.

 

Nice new transmission fluid in and an oil change.

 

Next stop get the mid silencers cut out of the stainless rear exhaust section.

 

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1e00e990939b2cd40d2b49761d8e5646.jpg

 

 

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Not hanging around now. Balls rolling. New cambelt kit on order and looking at brakes next.

 

 

 

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New AMS 3" divorced downpipes on order with CPZ (thanks Jaikai), and a couple of short JWT popchargers to allow me to fit the veilside explosion exhaust and my selin dual maf kit.......

got my clutch to do, any tips on it or problems u ran in to ?

 

Fairly straight forward dude.

Exhaust system off.

Remove Starter motor and associated wiring loom and the gearbox loom.

Drain the gearbox (can use 1/2" ratchet for the plug) .

Loose the prop (two 17mm bolts)

Drop the box (14mm socket) the two bolts up the very top are the only major issue. Really tight to get too.

Removing the clutch plate is easy but I had my impact gun.

 

Transmission fluid needed is 75w-90. Everyone uses different brands so whatever you want dude.

 

Did mine on axle stands and the box is heavier than it looks but it is possible on your own with help from a Jack.

 

I should have changed my flywheel and clutch plate. All I changed was the friction plate. But I'm getting a TT engine and loom asap so I'm only keeping this one running for a short time

 

 

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New AMS 3" divorced downpipes on order with CPZ (thanks Jaikai), and a couple of short JWT popchargers to allow me to fit the veilside explosion exhaust and my selin dual maf kit.......

 

Sounds very nice. The dual Maf wound make much difference on an NA would it?

 

 

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got my clutch to do, any tips on it or problems u ran in to ?

Wd40 and about 10 extensions and a swivel head ujoint

Lol

Edited by Alic

New AMS 3" divorced downpipes on order with CPZ (thanks Jaikai), and a couple of short JWT popchargers to allow me to fit the veilside explosion exhaust and my selin dual maf kit.......

 

For the white one mate ?

Wd40 and about 10 extensions and a swivel head ujoint

Lol

 

Yea you're going to want a few extensions! Once you realise that though it's a piece of cake really. 2 or 3ft of extensions on it and you can get to the top bolts pretty easily right from the back of the box

Yea you're going to want a few extensions! Once you realise that though it's a piece of cake really. 2 or 3ft of extensions on it and you can get to the top bolts pretty easily right from the back of the box

 

I managed with a 1/4" racthet and a deep 14mm socket. Admittedly it was literally one or two clicks of the ratchet but once it was loose enough I got my hand up there to do the rest

 

 

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I managed with a 1/4" racthet and a deep 14mm socket. Admittedly it was literally one or two clicks of the ratchet but once it was loose enough I got my hand up there to do the rest

 

 

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Depends how big your hands are! No way would I have been able to get enough force on a tiny ratchet like that to undo the bolts on mine anyway

been quite productive today, had my centre console out and removed the old jdm cd player harness, should of done it years ago, fitted my aux/usb socket in there for my new head unit. finally finished removing my carputer build and fitted a nice pioneer dab single head unit, and started to swap my seats over bye bye leather hello series 2 cloth.

IMG_0614.jpg

 

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just need to find the right colour suede now to cover my panels or get some panels, i think i have found something that's a close match i'll see what happens when the samples arrive.

yes it's not to bad it's the drivers seat that was letting the car down, got to be honest i picked up the series 2 cloth seats for a very reasonable price

Will SD-40 work just as well :biggrin:.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]105911[/ATTACH]

 

Did you buy that here? :lol:

 

AZDA-Supermarket-Hisaronu-Turkey.jpg

been quite productive today, had my centre console out and removed the old jdm cd player harness, should of done it years ago, fitted my aux/usb socket in there for my new head unit. finally finished removing my carputer build and fitted a nice pioneer dab single head unit, and started to swap my seats over bye bye leather hello series 2 cloth.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]105905[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]105904[/ATTACH]

 

just need to find the right colour suede now to cover my panels or get some panels, i think i have found something that's a close match i'll see what happens when the samples arrive.

 

Not suede, it's velour, I keep telling you! :lol:

 

Going from leather to velour was the best decision I ever made on the interior of my Z. It's much more comfortable, much quieter and much more subtle. The trick is to find the best condition parts you can and that's not always that easy. I've replaced a lot of the interior plastics with brand new ones in mine and a passenger seat donor gave up its guts for my driver seat and it all looks nearly-new now!

 

Also have a look at getting some series 2+ seat belt buckles; they tend to weather a little better than the faded ones in earlier cars.

 

Best thing you can do is to try and buy 2 sets of front seats and use the passenger seat parts as a donor for the drivers side. I had the bolster swapped and all the foam to my drivers seat. Looks and feels fantastic.

Edited by Funkysi

you are trying to confuse me now lol, the suede was referring to the interior panels lol. i'm going to need to keep an eye out for a spare passenger seat as my drivers seat has the slight wrinkling on the bolster, and there is a definite indentation in the foam, plus i have a couple of black marks on my passenger seat, not cleaned them yet so they may bet a bit after a good clean, i've also discovered whoever fitted the manual rail only bolted it at the front and left the back of the passenger seat floating in mid air

you are trying to confuse me now lol, the suede was referring to the interior panels lol. i'm going to need to keep an eye out for a spare passenger seat as my drivers seat has the slight wrinkling on the bolster, and there is a definite indentation in the foam, plus i have a couple of black marks on my passenger seat, not cleaned them yet so they may bet a bit after a good clean, i've also discovered whoever fitted the manual rail only bolted it at the front and left the back of the passenger seat floating in mid air

 

You ought to just buy the door panels and rear quarters from Jimmer. It'll match that way. I have some spare material you can use to cap the tiny cutouts on the rear quarter panels. You can then modify the door panels to fit using your old door cards as donors. I did mine and they look factory.

i'm off to see jimmer in a few weeks for an oil change etc, so i'm going to see if he has a full set of panels in, then i'll prob be after some advice on covering the door cards

i'm off to see jimmer in a few weeks for an oil change etc, so i'm going to see if he has a full set of panels in, then i'll prob be after some advice on covering the door cards

 

Don't bother recovering them, just buy the velour ones he has. It'll all match that way.

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