Hi, I noticed whilst browsing around Halford`s last weekend they had several options for applying Waxoyl. They have a new aerosol spray can, is this just as good as the old traditional method or just a quick fix?

 

Thanks Daz.

its not bad tbh. i have used it on my z and was able to get right into the panels and sills with trim removed.

 

it dont go very far tho and two tins would probably be required to give a though coating of both rear /front sills

its not bad tbh. i have used it on my z and was able to get right into the panels and sills with trim removed.

 

it dont go very far tho and two tins would probably be required to give a though coating of both rear /front sills

 

Nice one bud, I`m planning on doing both of my zeds, so i may purchase the older style of waxoyl then, i think it may go a little further? I will probably buy 1 tin of spray to do above the gearbox when i get it out.

 

Cheers Daz.

Hi, I noticed whilst browsing around Halford`s last weekend they had several options for applying Waxoyl. They have a new aerosol spray can, is this just as good as the old traditional method or just a quick fix?

 

Thanks Daz.

 

Expensive and a waste of time IMO.

Very little actual Waxoyl in the tin cos its mainly full of thinner/propellant to make it spray.

Much better to buy the pump + tin. Or even better the big can if you have the use of a compressor cos then you can buy a spray nozzle/trigger and use it with an empty schutz can

dont bother with waxoyl, its not a very good product... dinitrol is the way forward, it is used by the military and i personally use it in aviation on commercial airliners. approvals by boeing, airbus to name a few and carrying a mil-spec... these guys know the score when it comes to rustproofing.

 

http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=405096&p_n=405096

dinitrol gets the thumbs up from me too! great stuff and the seem to make rust cures for all occasions..

dont bother with waxoyl, its not a very good product... dinitrol is the way forward, it is used by the military and i personally use it in aviation on commercial airliners. approvals by boeing, airbus to name a few and carrying a mil-spec... these guys know the score when it comes to rustproofing.

 

http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=405096&p_n=405096

 

Where do I get Dintrol from localy chaps?

 

Cheers Daz.

Where do I get Dintrol from localy chaps?

 

Cheers Daz.

 

no idea.. you might struggle. best bet is to order online

Where do I get Dintrol from localy chaps?

 

Cheers Daz.

 

I get mine from Frost online, may not be the cheapest but they do have a wide selection. http://www.frost.co.uk/

www.rejel.com

 

Also, apply in the summer on the hottest driest day you can! A pointless operation in the winter/cooler months.

www.rejel.com

 

Also, apply in the summer on the hottest driest day you can! A pointless operation in the winter/cooler months.

 

Thanks Funky, When you say apply in the summer, Is that because its warm and apply`s easier? or because the car is dry underneath? I`m only asking as i need to do it before summer, and my car is always inside in the garage kept dry

 

Cheers Daz.

Thanks Funky, When you say apply in the summer, Is that because its warm and apply`s easier? or because the car is dry underneath? I`m only asking as i need to do it before summer, and my car is always inside in the garage kept dry

 

Cheers Daz.

 

as long as the car is completly dry then if its cold put the can into bucket of hot water prior to spraying:yes:

as long as the car is completly dry then if its cold put the can into bucket of hot water prior to spraying:yes:

 

Nice one Bud, It`s time to get sticky then!!! :hammer:

 

Cheers Daz.

Still 100% better to do in the summer. The panels will be warm. The product by nature 'creeps' and if applied to a warm dry panel, will penetrate into the flitches and creases so much better. You'll create condensation putting warm wax onto a cold panel. So that's not advisable either as you'll trap moisture ESPECIALLY with all the weather at the moment. There's so much moisture in the air to condensate.

 

For best results, do it on the hottest driest day you can. Wouldn't advise doing it now unless you have an oven you can borrow at an autobody shop or something.

Edited January 16, 201016 yr by FunkySi

great advice guys getting to this stage on my GTR and was going to use waxoil, might try this instead. As for painting any parts underneath (arms, sills.) what would be recommended, also whats the deference between waxoil and dinitrol

Edited January 16, 201016 yr by dipone

Still 100% better to do in the summer. The panels will be warm. The product by nature 'creeps' and if applied to a warm dry panel, will penetrate into the flitches and creases so much better. You'll create condensation putting warm wax onto a cold panel. So that's not advisable either as you'll trap moisture ESPECIALLY with all the weather at the moment. There's so much moisture in the air to condensate.

 

For best results, do it on the hottest driest day you can. Wouldn't advise doing it now unless you have an oven you can borrow at an autobody shop or something.

 

Ohh thats a thought!!, my mate will lend me his oven and i can do it in there!!! nice and warm aswell for me!!

 

Only problem is, me being me will have the stuff everywhere!! all over me, my clothes and his oven :2guns:

 

I need to get it done soon as on the hottest driest day i will be `rolling in my three point o with the rag top down and the girlies on standby` sorry

 

Cheers Daz

You will get it EVERYWHERE! Regardless of how clean and tidy you are. Probably worth getting some disposable boiler suits. Tyvek ones or something from Arco. Not sure how your mate will be about using wax based products in the oven though. Airborne particles of wax royally chuff up the painting process in much the same way as particles of silica do.

 

Leave the car in there for a good 30 mins before applying and then the same again afterwards. I'd leave it in for longer if you're able to.

Edited January 16, 201016 yr by FunkySi

You will get it EVERYWHERE! Regardless of how clean and tidy you are. Probably worth getting some disposable boiler suits. Tyvek ones or something from Arco. Not sure how your mate will be about using wax based products in the oven though. Airborne particles of wax royally chuff up the painting process in much the same way as particles of silica do.

 

Leave the car in there for a good 30 mins before applying and then the same again afterwards. I'd leave it in for longer if you're able to.

 

Sound advice there Si:smartass:

 

Richard:cool2:

I did my Ram at the summer last year, nice dry day.

 

Covered the complete truck in masking polythene, masking taped it all around the wheel arches, sills, pick-up body etc. Blocked all the holes in the alloys, top of the tail pipes, the full bhoona.

 

Put it up on the outdoor ramps, where they normally steam clean the chassis.

3 gallons of black Waxoyl later, one pair of sore eyes and a few lumps on my head, it looked like it had just came out the factory !!

 

Still had traces on the quarters, and the ruddy screen !! It goes everywhere !! Well worth it tho as the recent spell of salty, slushy snow wont stick to it, so obviously does its job ! Mine is a daily driver, so its out in all sorts of weather.

 

I did leave mine for 12 hours before driving. Exhaust smelt for a little while, but not to bad.

 

Alan...........