for those who dont know, ive converted from NA to TT, (and auto to man)

 

put intercooler pipes back together, started first time but died out.

 

i had forgot to blank off the recircs.

 

blankt off, started again first time, idled a little longer,

 

sounded like was on 3 or 5 cylinders, then diesd again when tapped the accelarator.

 

now it wont start :( it just turns and turns, had a little blip but wudnt fire.

 

ive left it now as dont want to flood it. ive not had the gas pedal pressed in when starting, just started with the key nothing else

 

 

fuel pump noise comes on when ignition is on.

 

any suggestions?

just plugged in the standard electric sub fan, makes no difference.

still wont fire & still gived same error code.

 

 

just need someone to confirm the engine & radiater hard pipes need to be full of water for car to work

 

(i woudnt think the sensor would know if there was water in there or not)

 

 

or if i ned a new sensor on the radiater hardpipes of the engine

> just need someone to confirm the engine & radiater hard pipes need to be full of water for car to work

 

the engine will start fine without a radiator (or coolant)..I wouldn't let the engine run for anything over 20 seconds without any coolant though.

 

>> still wont fire & still gived same error code.

 

did you clear the error code first, otherwise it might be the old code still.

 

if you did clear the code, you either have a wiring/connector issue or the temp sensor is dead.

did you clear the error code first, otherwise it might be the old code still.

 

if you did clear the code, you either have a wiring/connector issue or the temp sensor is dead.

 

thaught you have to have conzult for that, if you disconect the battery for an hour i didnt think that removes what its saved?

 

or how do i need to do it?

 

if still says error 13, the only other thing HAS to be is the senser itself has packed in yea?

hi z32

 

just to tell you that your not alone im having the exact same problems as yourself only i only replaced the loom, the garage that i gave it too for engine rebuild made a mess of my loom etc etc,i can get the car started but wont idle doing my head in..hope you have some luck ..

> if you disconect the battery for an hour i didnt think that removes what its saved?

 

yes, that should clear any stored errors

 

> if still says error 13, the only other thing HAS to be is the senser itself has packed in yea?

 

in what shape is your wiring loom ?

if it's in bad shape, I would look for the problem there, as it's rare for temp sensors to go bad

This may also explain why it's only running on 3/4 cylinders, because the injector connectors are usually the first ones to fail.

 

Also make sure the main ECU connector (the blue one) is plugged in correctly.

make sure it's plugged in straight/evenly and not too tight (because the connector will warp)

 

next thing to

next thing to check is the CAS and it's connector

mickcml007,

 

so have you replaced your loom? did that resove it?

 

 

ive checked the CAS, that seems fine.

 

im asuming that itl go on 6cylinders when it starts next, as the top coilpack wasnt on all the way (clickt when presst it on)

 

il remove the ECU & connecxt it again, but it does say error code 13 so isnt it conencted correctly?

 

the car & loom looks in good nick, and the garage havent touched the loom, as ive told them the looms are the same

 

so its not the sensor that the ECU is telling me? or should i get another?

 

really dont wana swap the looms :(

and also if it is the loom/injector wires,

 

why is the ECU saying the temp sensor?

 

are the pics if shown on the last page ok to leave unplugged? just trying to route out anything it wont be...

> and also if it is the loom/injector wires,

> why is the ECU saying the temp sensor?

 

if the temp sensor or temp sensor wiring is making a short it will cause a code 13

if the temp sensor cannot be accessed by the ECU, because it's missing, the connector isn't seated or there is a break in the wiring, it will also cause a code 13.

 

get the car on a conzult, it will help to diagnose this problem much easier.

i dont have conzult or know of anyone local with it,

 

shall i get hold of another temp sensor?

 

looks easy to replace.

 

the looms havent moved, and the previous owner said the car workt fine on the previous owner.

 

pain in the arse this is :(

TBH, the sensor ain't much at all and it usually comes with a new connector and a short bit of wire. Even if it turns out to be a break in a wire somewhere, it's still worthwhile changing the sensor as it's the biggest pain in the arse sensor on the zed.

I've changed mine simply as a matter of cause...

smithy

right then,

 

the wires that go to the temp sensor were all gunked up,

 

not the connection where the sensor meets the yellow bit.

 

(had to break the plastic yellow bit to get at it)

 

 

made a nice new connection, with fresh wire, ECU now readys code 55 (normal)

 

 

removed fuse, turned over few times, put fuse back in, started first time, but died within 3 seconds :confused:

 

also was only on about 300rpm.

 

 

what can i do??? is it stupidly flooded? ECU reads to errors, so the injectors etc etc are all connected and fine yea?

The front 4 spark plugs are so easy to whip out and clean, your engine has been mega flooded with cranking over all the time. For the sake of 10mins, whip these ones out and give em a clean. Ideally all 6, but the front 4 will make a massive difference.

Glad to see what you done made a difference though eh :)

smithy

yea its like im slowly making progress.

 

il jam the throttle open with the boost pipes removed to try an get as much air into there to dry them out.

 

its not starting again at the mo tho, its asif its busting to but not getting fuel to just roar up!

 

try and dry as much as possible, then il post an update. any other suggestins from anyone, or agree its flooded please reply!

left the throttles open, (with IC rubbers removed)

 

and also the coilpacks remvoed, to try and get as much air in there to dry it out.

 

left overnight but still nothing :(

 

 

going to try bumping the car down a hill tonight, hoping that should get it all started???

So why didn't you whip out the front 4 spark plugs ? quicker than removing the intake hoses once the coil packs are off.

smithy

So why didn't you whip out the front 4 spark plugs ? quicker than removing the intake hoses once the coil packs are off.

smithy

 

i didnt have the correct size socket for them, ive got deep reach ones, but didnt not the correct size (whatever size the spark plugs are?)

 

the car started tonight off the key, it wil rev all the way out, i kept it there for a while to try and burn off the fuel.

 

was very petroly/smokey, and exhaust even poppt a bit.

 

it definitly isnt running right tho, im pritty sure isnt on 6 cylinders (impreza sound)

 

all the coil packs were fine before i did the engine swap. as were the plugs.

 

as its a different car/loom, i can only asume its 1 of the connections, the Injectors i asume? this would casue ruff running & not on 6 cylinders yea,

 

but why is the ECU telling me no errors?

From memory a faulty injector connection wouldn't show up as a code would it? Tubz had the same on his, we worked through each cylinder at a time. Had the car idling and then pulled off the injector then coil connector to see if the engine idle changed, if it drops its ok. Doing that you should get to a cylinder where the idle doesn't change - the faulty will be that one.

hmm yea ive done that method before,

 

when trying to find out which coilpack had gone.

 

 

only prob ive got is the car hasnt been idling previously,

 

so cant leave the car tick over whilst i examine the coilpacks/injectors.

 

 

i didnt try an let it tick over tonight tho, just kept the revs on then nockt off when finisht, so it may tick over now (as this was 1st time started after me sorting the temp sensor)

 

 

im going to rule out the coilpacks & injectors themselves, just the connections to them.

Hopefully if it will tick over now you can try again, the connections are usually to blame rather than the components. Doing this you should narrow it down to which cylinder, then you can work out if it's coil or injector and then connection or component.

changed the connections on the front 4 injectors, with new speaker spades,

 

still the same.

 

ive given the car to the garage who swapped the engine over for me (good mechanic)

 

said that doesnt seem fuel is getting through.

 

 

so whats the possible casues then...

 

1) blocked fuel filter

2) fuel pump (but was working fine, and can hear it priming)

3) injectors

4) ECU

 

guna leav with the garage for a week and see what they think :confused:

Just to clarify whats what now mate.

Engine starts okay now ?

It just doesn't sound right like it's running on 4 or 5 cylinders ?

It ran perfectly fine in the TT shell before removal and you drove it all okay ?

No Error codes from the ECU ?

Cheers

Smithy

Just to clarify whats what now mate.

Engine starts okay now ?

It just doesn't sound right like it's running on 4 or 5 cylinders ?

It ran perfectly fine in the TT shell before removal and you drove it all okay ?

No Error codes from the ECU ?

Cheers

Smithy

 

thanks mate, im not in possession of the car at the mo, as its down the garage.

 

Engine doesnt start ok.

when it does, it sounds like on 4/5 cylinders.

it ran PERFECT in the TT shel before, and even drove to the garage.

ECU now reads to error codes.

 

im using the NA loom, TT fuel pump, TT ECU,

 

must be a problem with something on the new shell, as oppost to the engine, as ran fine before.

 

the things that are on the NA shell ive used, which may be casuing trouble, is the fuel filter, loom, thats all i can think.