Steve-o

All the best mate, I didn't re-sub either when I got rid of the Z some years ago but that doesn't mean you can't stop by :)

I am a Porshe fan ;) and I like the OEM look ;) Some of the 993's and aircooled ones can like nice with a fee tweeks though.

350's drive alright, you need to rev them though if you want to get moving 'swiftly'. They feel like a nice solid car to be in. I tried a few out a few years ago and very nearly got one, but the wife made me change my mind due to the lack of back seats (even though it was just a to and from work car!). They are still in my mind today, epecially with the drop in price, they would make a nippy, comfortable day to day car tbh, look nice too imho with the rays and dropped.

True lol.

Not sure what the history of this guy is but I would have thought he deserves some bad publicity (he comes across in the add as a total ass hole). Simple fact is we all know it's way overpriced, I remember this car from way back when I first joined the club and it was a great looking car 'Zelda' looked better before though. It looks like all he has done is change the wheels and lights lol, what an extensive personal project, must have taken him such a long time to do.

Ebaylink removed. LOL, what's with this guy? I love the way he thinks that slagging off the 300zx owners club will make a great impression to someone looking at the add, who will in all honesty, be an enthusiast that knows about 300zx's and not your average Joe. I instantly thought, tosser. Well that was my second thought, my first when I saw the auction for that price made me think 'L O L' I clicked on it some weeks ago and the part where it said 'don't read any further if you can not justify the cost' I closed down the browser and wiped it from my memory as recomended lol. A friend at work was talking about his old Z and I got chatting about mine and decided to type in 300zx on ebay, and not surprisingly ha hasn't sold it. I thought I would take a look at the auction this time and saw more douchebaggery. Some people eh?

Baz is right, you can get a dye in a pressurised can that you can put into the valve on the aircon system - run it through, pop a UV lamp over it and you will see the leak. If you check the condensor though with the motor out you should see dark patches on the fins / core if it's been leaking for some time.

A tea spoon of oil in the tubs can ploom out white-ish blue smoke at full chat. It's a combination of the oil and moisture in the zorst burning off.

Maf failure will normally put the car in 'limp mode' and it will run like a bag of nails and not over 3k ish. You can get a pool of water under the nose cone and it the moisture gets sucked in and kills the wire, quite a common fault. Coil packs can also be poor when hot - test the spark on them - orange = shite, blue to white = good.

Hehe, just popped on here and saw this post up the top :) It's been said the 3.6 is more reliable, aparantly not the same bore liner issues (yet to be proven), although research has shown that the 3.6 gets thermally 'shafted' compared to the 3.4 due to the cooling set up and the 3.4 runs cooler on all cylinders. IMS seals on the 3.4 fail prematurely - it's a sealed bearing with it's own grease, once the seal breaks oil can wash away the lubricant. If the motor is running on good quality synthetic or a thin enough oil then it can become 'self lubricating' and the oil does the job instead and flows in and out. Eventually the bearings can wear down though on some motors. Mines done 112k now and is still on the original IMS. Retro-fit bearings and seal kits are availabe for about £500 fitted. Either way there are pro's and cons. I've heard of as many failures of 3.6's as 3.4's, and as many mid-mileage (60k ish) to high mileage instances. The 3.4 is essentially the same as the boxster S 3.2 motor, but bored out. It makes for some of the block and liners to be a bit thin by some peoples standards (although I am sure Porsche knew what they were doing right?). I would expect tbh the life of a motor in either 3.4 or 3.6 guise to be similar to that of a Z. Ones with a hard life and that wern't assembled so great may only live to 80k, while others can and have lived to over 150k. It is a gamble, and they are expensive motors, but then there is never any guarantee with any motor is there? You just have to do your best to test one out, check out the history and the motor and take a punt. There are specialists such as autofarm and hartech offering rebuilds at a reasonable price (read 5kish) so although anoying it's not the end of the world. I would consider a 996 as somewhat of an investment, if you buy a good example and keep it mint, I don't think it should devalue any more. Shop around and get a bargain, and if the worst ever did come to the worst you could have the motor rebuilt and add that a premium onto the selling price and get most of your cash back if needed (IE, you buy a 70-80k c2 car for say 15k, with a fully rebuilt motor it should easily be worth 18-19k).

Not repairable - buy a Porsche....

I'm in Swindon

I'm in Swindon so not too far, if there is a get together though let me know - may be working Sunday though not sure yet, depends if I get called Sat night. Would be nice to pop over and see a few Z's as I am zedless at the mo.

I'd be up for this.

Hi Mate :) I pop on here once every few months to check the for sale section to see if there is anything interesting around. I stumbled into the advice forum and thought I would post up. And in theory yes, 5w40 is the same as 10w40 when warmed up :) I had an interesting scale, can't find it right now though, it showed how different multi-grades stayed in grade at over 80 deg. Brands differ as does the difference between grades (IE 0w or 5w 40 don't stay in grade as well as 10w 40 at higher temps). I believe the industry standard is to measure up to 80 degress to achieve the high temp rating we see on the labels, some motors run oil at around 90 (eg mk2 golf's run at 95 oil temp IIRC). As contaminents get in the oil through use, the oil also breaks down and it affects the ability of the oil to stay in grade also meaning it will shear. Combine a thinner base oil with a few k use in an older engine, and in my opinion it won't protect as well. Still that's just my opinion :) I moved from 5w40 to 10w40 in the Porsche for added protection, oil pressure is a little stronger, but all in all, either seemed to do fine. Cheers,

PS, you may find thinner oil gets passed the seals easier in older tubbies etc.

10w40 mobil X semi for the win. I wouldn't personally run 5w40 fully in a higher mileage old engine, it shears easier than a good 10w 40 at higher temps and won't stay in grade as well. Although in theory it gets around quicker at start and low temps, the additional flow is negligible in my opinion, I'd rather have something a little thicker to get be in the engine and around those increased tollerences. Cheers,

A cornish pasty lol.

Cheers have wanted one for many years :) It's a C2 so lots of RWD goodness :) I do love the power delivery, just bags of torque from 3k onward in every gear and a great sound. Perhaps one day a 997, but probably not for a long long time! I think this one will hold a special place though as it was my first 911, so would like to keep it if viable even if I upgrade in years to come.

amen!

Ass kissers, fake people, sales people, lazy people, selfishness....

LOL, a football joke I can get :D Only because I had that 10 per goal riding on the last lot of matches due to buying a TV from Comet, it made it a little more interesting thinking I was going to get money for free - but it never really happened!

Good man, never been into it myself, there's always something better to watch or do! :)

:)

What's footy?