silverbullet

im only 4' 8" and my knees still hit the steering wheel :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :slap:

if you can bud then do so. remembering that they could well be the oem originals at around 15 years old. you never know if who ever changed the belt last had replaced them or not. piece of mind i would change them, not to mention the cam seals and water pump. HTH

depends on what you want to do with it. i.e.... 17's for track. 18's for road or 19's for touring. as Shunter said its all to do with how your using the car and what your preference is. as for the suspension, i would ste it up every time you change the rim diameter and then at every sensible interval, say six months there after. HTH

if by 4WS you mean rear wheel steering then nope, only the N/A's. the TT's have a rear wheel HICAS system. which some people lock off for better track and drift responce.

lol...... thats how much my R34 Hawk cramic pads from the states cost. id do a search bud, you'l get a much better price then that

done!!

Woo Hoo that was me on my way home from work!!! i love that roundabout, good for drifting!!!!! did it look like this?.....

haha!!! what a weekend we had!!!! the zeds behaved :hyper: but they were the only ones :shock: :slap:

if its a TT bud, i would recomend OEM from nissan, bit pricey but unlike poly mounts and alike they wont deteriorate from the heat generated

who cares what she looks like, after lunch shes gona look like that any way!!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

sh*t, that would have been perfect, we would have even had a place to stay woz. i have a mentor of many years who lives in worthing :slap:

good to see you again mr shifty. very happy i could help you out. any other probblems bud, you know where we are. il try to make it to the next reading meet. thanks darrel for the free plug :duffer: we need to see more action of the reality type on this site and get all those zeds out there back on the roads!!!! :hyper: :hyper:

the one ive arrowed goes into a plastic box with an electrical plug on it, i can asure you its not the bonnet. i got rid of mine all together

ahh cool, was wondering what make they were, mine came into the country with those fitted, takes a while to get used to the lack of rear view mind

correct me if im wrong but the vac pipe thats arrowed is the stock boost sender pipe, the electrical wires go through the fire wall not the vac Mark

i shouldnt start cutting into your OEM fly, too much work to get it balanced. if you want a lightened one then go for a steel type not ally, simple reason is the heat thats generated by these engines and gearbox (with out box cooler) can course the fly to warp

they are very easy to fit, if you dont count the odd seized bolt!!! just spray every thing up with WD or freeing compound first. you must get the camber done asap after wards tho. i highly recomend adjustable tensions and rear uppers aswell to complete the package HTH Mark

silly question bud but, has he watched for spark with the plug out? if so has he tried a different plug? if it turns out that the plug sparks, have a look at the injectors, place a screw driver on the connector and stick your ear to it. you should hear it ticking if its working. but first check the PTU connections. also there are several electrical plugs at the back of the engine, VVT connectors, knock sensor connector, O2 sensor connectors and towards the back of the engine are the stock acctuator solanoid connectors. any chance of putting some pics up or tracing the wires to where they go? HTH Mark

tell you what, pay the postage bud and you can have it

where are you from bud? reson being, idont think its worth trying to post it but, i have a spare '91 carpet if you have no luck

is it an auto or manual bud?

now that is true but, its fairly straight forward, you just need the diameter of the original bolt shanks, and the thread size of the rod ends....

nice one

saw those, but not sure on the strength of them, ebay is good but not for anything that has to take a load. i just need the sizes and lengths so i can fashion my own. cheers any way guys

has any one got any pictures of the lock off bar with dimensions as im thinking of machining my own many thanks Mark