RobH

I can get these from the official UK distributors but the price is a bit of a joke - would work out about £350+vat!! That's with around a 5% markup! RRP is £475+vat (!!!) They have stock if you're in desperate need. If anyone else is interested I might be able to import some at a MUCH better price... Part number is DIS-009 if you want to shop around... Cheers RobH

Cheers for that, I was hoping to remove the hose and 'cap' the hard pipe outlet but I guess the result would be the same..

Hi All, Just pulled the recircs off (I have Blitz BOVs, been running these for a while with the standard recircs in place). Thought I might as well junk the old recircs whilst the engine was out. I now need something to effectively and reliably plug the hardpipes where the recircs were fitted. Anyone done this? What did you use?? I also need a few rubber covers to blank off various vacuum take offs from the balance bar etc (removed EGR and AIV) - these seem to be easily available in the US but not over here...any ideas anyone?? Thanks in advance RobH

Ok, just to update this thread, the elusive part number is 14465-40P02. Thanks to the ever reliable Mr Feeney at MJP for speedy and cheap supply! Cheers RobH

Ordered from a local Nissan main dealer. I'm not going to get into an argument with them for the sake of a few quid, they're usually pretty good and I want to keep a good reationship with them. I'll have most of the gasket set left when I'm finished so I'll stick them in with that and put it on Ebay ;-) I've ordered from Mike Feeney, assuming they're marked up I'll post the part numbers when they arrive ;-). Also got some nice Nissan diagrams of the turbo assemblies with all part numbers - I'll maybe scan them in if any use to anyone...? Typically they don't show the gaskets I need!! Must be on the intake diagrams (?) Cheers H!

Doh! Got the gaskets and they're the wrong ones!! They're the small 3 cornered ones I've got (I thought this was cold side) - not the larger 2 bolt ones that go between turbo compressor (intake?) and the big black pipes that the boost solenoids are connected to - these are the ones I need. Mr D, if you're reading could you (or anyone else for that matter) furnish me with the relevant part number please?? Bleedin' Nissan won't take the incorrect ones back - another £15 down the pan! Cheers H

Nice one :-D.

Incidentally Mr Duff, the turbo to precat mounting studs came out reasonably easily with a stud extractor. You were right (as usual), I did use studs in the end ;-) H

Hi guys, actually that does help quite a lot, 8mm silicon it is then. I've got some good (allegedly) second hand pipes on their way. My cooling/heating system must have been run for a long time with no corrosion inhibitor/anti freeze - it's a really awful state, everything's orange or corroded to nothing :-(. Would you chance anything other than the genuine Nissan Silicon sealant on your cooling system parts?? I've got half a tube somewhere from when I did the water pump last, would rather not spend another £30 on that if a £4 tube of instant gasket is just as good. Cheers again! H

Cheers Andy, do you have to look these things up or are they in memory?! The pre-shaped stuff I could do with replacing is all over the place - turbo water inlets and outlets etc. Most of the blue bits here: (apart from the by-passed hoses) http://www.courtesyparts.com/z32/oe_tt-1_water-hose.html I don't wanna spend £100+ on a load of crummy bits of pipe though... Cheers H

Ok, cheers, I've done the plenum bypass - or rather I will when the engine goes back in. Can all the 'shaped' or pre-bent rubber nissan water hoses be replaced with standard 2 or 3 ply water hose or should I really use the genuine Nissan items? Seems to me it would be a bit untidy to have standard hose sticking out as physics dictates... Mr D, you are correct, it is the heater matrix flow and return pipes that are worst affected and really need replacing...any help appreciated... Cheers H!

Hi guys, just putting things back together and am not happy with the state of my coolant pipes at the rear of the engine (near the EGR valve - or at least where it used to be ;-)). It's the two larger bore pipes that are worst affected but most are pretty poor. Any help with the following would be appreciated: 1. Quite corroded at the ends and very rough around the sealing area but weren't leaking, would you risk using these pipes? ;-) 2. Can anyone supply Nissan part numbers and rough costs please? (I am sitting down). 3. Does anyone have any reasonably good used items to sell? If mods think this post would be better in 'items wanted', please feel free to move it. Thanks. RobH

Nice one Mr D, ta! Erm - hot side/cold side erm - showing my expertise now ;-) it's what the big black pipes connect to, think you're right with the hot side though (compressor side)... As far as the bolts go, I was going to use the stock precat ones - there's two on each precat anyway so I was just going to use 4 of these on each. I have a nightmare removing old studs for re-use in the past - even with a stud removal tool set. Cheers H

Hi Guys, can anyone help me with the OEM part number for the 2 x turbo intake outlet gaskets (I think this how they're best described). These are the fellers, I'm assuming the part number Courtesy use is their own number not Nissan's. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=16523-MZ32T I find it a bit odd that I bought a full engine gasket set and it only appears to be mising these two gaskets. A different full set at Courtesy, link below, (I bought mine elsewhere) also doesn't appear to include these gaskets. Not a full set in my opinion. http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=10101-00002. Anybody got any hot tips for tightening the 'impossible to reach' hidden turbo mounting nut. How the heck are you supposed to torque these things when there is no chance of getting anything other than a ring spanner on them?? Last Q, is there any reason for using two studs and two bolts to mount the precat precat to the exhaust side of the turbo? My replacement tubs came without studs so I was proposing just to use bolts at all four 'corners'. Any issue with this?? Thanks in advance. RobH

Gah! Typical :-( - just to confirm, they have the appearance of a narrow oil seal, about 3 - 4cm diameter? Wouldn't it effectively give me a fuel leak as well?? Thanks Mr D! Long time no speak, have you changed moby in the last couple of years? H

Hi All, just changed my injectors, new o-rings etc, what I hadn't previously noticed was the 6 x seals around the fuel rail. Is it normal to have to replace these when reinstalling the fuel rail? They look ok but I don't want to have to pull the plenum again if they go sick...I got a full engine gasket and seal kit which doesn't include these seals so I'm assuming they're not normally replaced. Any advice appreciated ;-) RobH

Hi all, A few quick Q's under this heading. My engine is out for turbo replacement, not seen the VVT solenoids until now and they appear to have partially melted (I assume they should be encased in plastic - this appears to be transformed into a chewing gum like goo) - I could be wrong, maybe they always look like that, any comments?? Does anyone have a pic of what they should look like? I'm running an AVC-r and want to remove as much redundant rubbish from the engine/bay as I can. Is it possible to safely remove the stock boost solenoids and also the standard recirc valves ?(Blitz BOVs fitted on hardpipes). I want to do a plenum bypass whilst I'm at it, can any one refer me to a good 'how to' link to save me rooting around please? Same applies to the EGR removal. Thanks in advance for any help! H!

LOL - apparently the main site is at http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk, and easier to use, rather than http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk... (or so I'm told) Duffer - have you changed your moby? I could do with a chat about these PE1420s

All depends on level of tune and how you drive ;-) PFR6B-11C for standard tune TT PFR6B-11 for standard tune NA Mods which increase combustion chamber temperature mean colder heat range and less projection, extreme mods mean different tip design, high boost is best served with a smaller gap setting, nitrous is best served with a short ground electrode design. Yes, the spark plug bore is back ;-) I can certainly sell you some but don't want to get into trouble as I'm not a trader on here :-( - hence not posting a link Cheers H!

Just had a look at the Z1 link, interesting, same parts are available at the same price from conceptz. Are you buying with the required 5 bolt downpipes Mark?? What are Z1 charging for shipping? Cheers!

They look pretty good, I'm really keen on the alleged 'instant' spool up of the PEs though. Is anyone running these JWT 700s? Any feedback? Cheers H!

Hi all. Been off the forum for a while, Z has been up on blocks for the last year awaiting some attention. I've freed up a bit of cash to 'waste' and the first job is to replace the standard turbos which were smoking on occasion, part of the reason I took it off the road. Engine is coming out within the next couple of weeks. It's a J-spec auto converted to manual, AVC-r, blitz BOVs (oh dear...), powerflow exhaust (even worse), Blitz SUS, can't remember who's chip (!), KYB's etc. I'm looking for a direct bolt on pair of tubs capable of 500BHP or thereabouts, I'm not doing injectors at the mo' as funds won't allow, just looking to run up to 1 bar reasonably reliably for the time being. Looking at PE1420's but apparently these are best with some extra pipework, I'm also struggling to find them for less than £2K even with the current exchange rate. If anyone can point me to a link it would be much appreciated. If anyone's seen any good deals on any other suitable kits or know of any fresh recons for sale I'd be equally as interested. I'll be upgrading injectors, intercooler etc as funds allow. I'm looking at the Zemulator to keep on top of the mods, is there anything similar available in the UK yet?? Anyways, any advice appreciated. (apart from 'don't run upgraded turbos without upgraded injectors'). Cheers! RobH

There's a 2mm shroud on PFR6B-11C when compared to PFR6B-11, projection and overall length is the same. If the thickness of the head is identical on NA and TT then either the threaded shell will finish 2mm shy of being flush with the combustion chamber surface for PFR6B-11 or will be 2mm proud of the surface for PFR6B-11C (or I guess each plug thread could end 1mm either side of the cc surface...). Cheers H!

Hi there, unlikely PFR6B-11C will cause an issue in an NA, you've proved that by running ok for 2 years anyway. Slightly higher possibility of cold fouling but less chance of thermal damage thanks to the extended shroud on the threaded shell... Would anyone care to comment on the thickness of the head? PFR6B-11C has an extra 2mm of shroud - never having seen this from the combustion chamber side of the head I'm not sure whether this actually stands proud of the combustion chamber surface or is flush with it. I'll get me anorak...

ok, thanks guys...