RobH

Hi guys, it's a manual (converted). Dash lights do dim considerably and in fact my AVC-r reboots so voltage is drained to practically nil when starting. Have checked all connections and all appear to be good. I'm currently charging back up to full power again - just to rule that out. Don't see how this can be the prob though as it went from spinning the engine beautifully to not at all in an instant...voltage is still reading 12+. Cheers H

Ok, thanks guys, sorted! Just a 101 other problems now :-(

This is really becoming annoying, one step forward and two steps back!! I can't start the blasted thing now, it was starting and running ok. Now it can't turn the engine over!! Battery is fully charged and brand new (quality). Turning the ignition on results in a 'jump' but it doesn't seem to have quite enough power to turn the engine over (not even once) - almost as if the crank is 'stuck'. I've swung on the crank front bolt and confirmed that the engine will turn over without difficulty. Pulled the starter partly off and confirmed that it spins when ignition is on (haven't taken it off completely as new exhaust is right in the way). It has done this a couple of times over the last few days but next attempt has got it started to date. I suspect the starter motor has given up. Can anyone confirm this please? Don't want to replace unless totally necessary. Thanks in advance. RobH

Hi All, I'm about to order an O2 sensor removal socket, it's 22mm, is this the correct size? I can't get my calipers on the nut as the engine is in the car hence cannot measure accurately. It seems all references on here are to 22mm but mine appears a little smaller (illusion?). Not bad for under a tenner http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?gotonode=ViewProduct&method=mViewProduct&productid=8377 Thanks in advance. RobH

On the subject of checking for leaks, I've been checking mine but couldn't get any pressure into the system (see earlier post). My solution (which may be old news to you guys) was to split the intake system. Blank off one side of the air induction T pipe, use a 'dummy' with inflation valve to put pressure into the system (a good investment if you don't already have one), remove the pipes that connect to the Throttle bodies and take it one side at a time - thereby narrowing down which side has a leak. To check each side in turn, I used a surgical glove over the pipe end, which will obviously inflate when the system is pressurised (you could use a condom if you're so inclined but I prefer to save these in case I get lucky). Once you've found the leaky side you can continue to narrow it down by separating pipes further down the circuit, putting the glove over the end and testing again etc etc...you will need to do some disassembly to get to the appropriate pipes (a real pain with the main plastic inlet pipe) but chances are you may be looking to replace one pipe or other anyway...It's all a bit Heath Robinson but I suspect he may have designed a number of systems on the Z32 anyway ;-) Using this method you can also include the plenum, connect the side you are pressurising and put the glove over the other side TB inlet... You do need to understand the inlet system to use this method effectively. I don't think I've explained this very eloquently but hopefully you get the general idea. It should save the nightmare of removing all the intake pipes to determine if one is split or loose - or making a guess only to find you got the wrong side. With the engine idling you could try pulling one of the smaller vacuum lines from the balance bar, if the engine note doesn't change noticably then you've prob got a bigger leak somewhere else. To adjust the timing you need to slacken off the bolts on the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) at the top front right of the engine and rotate slightly. I think it's clockwise to retard the ignition - don't quote me on that! See the timing tweak under tech at http://www.ttzd.com/. Good luck H

Cheers Smithy ;-)

You're right on the limit with 17 degrees advance, stock is 15 degrees +/- 2. You may find that winding it back to the stock average 15 degrees helps. You might lose a bit of 'edge' but better than losing your engine. Early ignition is the cause - whether this is through spark ocurring very early or an alternative cause of combustion such as an overheated combustion chamber (leading to a hot spot and therefore a source of ignition). If the spark is occurring at the right time you need to look for other possible causes of excess heat such as an intermittent injector or air leak (leading to weak mixture), plugs which are too hot (inspect the firing end, all should be approx the same, light tan). Of course if you're running crazy boost with standard injectors you're going to get det sooner or later... Have you plugged up all the old recirc connections properly? Just my shilling.... H

Oh, and the other odd thing is that one side O2 sensor is considerably more expensive than the other - can't see any reason for this, I think someone mentioned that the wires were longer on one side...

Hi Rich, did you get my email last night?? Ok the prob is that I was going to import sensors from the US. I can't see why the sensor would be any different though - it's what the ECU does with the signal that's important surely? Possibly different due to lower RON fuel?? Any ideas - anyone? Cheers H

Subject says it all really. I can get the NA sensors no problem, TT is not listed with my supplier. Another reference I've seen (ngk.com.au) lists the same sensor for all models and, presumably, for both sides (unless their partsearch only shows the first entry in their database). Advice appreciated. Cheers RobH

Are you sure the base timing is correct (should have shown up as approx 15 degrees on consult). I haven't seen your earlier post (presumably there was one) but I got det for no apparrent reason and when checking the timing it was 10 degrees advanced. Was unable to explain it at the time and still can't. Adjusted the CAS and all was well...

Hi All, Slotted my engine back in and got it running. Not running well though. I suspect I have a big boost leak somewhere. Can't pressurise the system enough to find out where - so it must be substantial. I'm sure it's a leak in the turbo / IC circuit having ruled anything after the throttle bodies out. The reason for my post is to see if anyone can suggest anything obvious that I may have overlooked when reinstalling the engine. I've removed the stock recircs and capped off the hardpipes at 4 points, although admittedly I could do with a better solution than I am currently using for this, does anyone make a kit for plugging these annoying orifices? Stock boost solenoids have also gone and the turbo intake pipe nipples have been capped. AIV and EGR valves have been scrapped and their respective vacuum lines capped. I've also fitted a FMIC with a bit of extra pipework (all air tight). Hope someone can help! Cheers RobH

Cheers Mr D! More for the scrap bin then....

Hi All, As the subject says, I've been a bit of a dunce and forgotten which pipes connect up where. To be specific, there are two narrow metal pipes running in parallel on the driver's side of the engine, just below the plenum and behind the bracket that holds the VVC solenoid connector and the boost solenoid connector. It looks to me as though the front of one of these pipes connects just under the throttle body on the driver's side and the other connects to a nipple on the top of the big plastic intake pipe on the driver's side. 1. Have I got the connections correct so far? 2. What connects to the other end of the metal tubes?! I've junked a few bits whilst the engine's been out, AIV's, EGR, stock boost solenoids, carbon canister, plenum water bypass, so it is possible I'm looking for connections which no longer exist. Any help with the above would be greatly appreciated, if anyone has a good clear picture of the driver's side of the engine then that may be useful too. This is a bit thick of me, I know, but it has been over 6 months since I pulled the engine, my memory is dreadful. TIA for any help. RobH

Hi guys. Took the b*stard box off AGAIN! and good job I did, fork had come adrift from the back of the bearing, must have been due to me abusing it during reinstallation ;-) Thanks for the advice anyway... H!

Hi all, put my box back on yesterday, all seemed to be ok, went on relatively easy. Come to fit starter motor, clutch slave cylinder etc today and noticed that the clutch operating arm (not sure what the technical term is) was at a bit of an odd angle - it appears slightly twisted. Not sure how this can happen if the shafts are all lined up correctly and the gearbox is straight (I'm pretty sure it is). There is no play at all in the clutch arm when the box is tightened up - is this correct? Advice appreciated. This is doing my nut in!! Cheers RobH

Ok, not to worry, I've stuck it on now and pretty sure it's correct. For the information of others in this predicament in future, the small plate goes behind the large plate (engine side) with the rubber seal facing toward the gearbox. If I've got this wrong then somebody please correct me asap! H

Hi James, thanks for your input but unfortunately the manual doesn't appear to show the plates in question :-\ - unless I'm looking at the wrong sections (gearbox, engine, clutch - where else could it be?!?) Cheers, H!

Oops! should have double checked before posting! It looks to me that the small plate should go on the gearbox side of the other plates - information I have read suggests otherwise...apols for any confusion! H

Hi all, sorry about this one! I really can't find good info on this anywhere... I'm refitting the gearbox (manual) and ready to slip the smaller dust plate between gearbox and engine. I need to know how this plate should be oriented. Does the rubber 'seal' point towards the box or the engine?? My other question is does it fit on the gearbox side or the engine side of the larger dust plates (that sit behind the flywheel). My larger dust plates look as though they are deformed to allow the smaller plate to fit behind them (engine side) but this contradicts what I have read so far... Advice greatly appreciated. RobH

Hi, yes, there's actually a big plate and a small plate. I'm pretty sure its actually the friction plate being out of line with spigot bearing :-( Moral of this post is don't buy a cheap cr*p universal alignment tool - the type for aligning pressure plate and friction plate before fitting to the engine - doesn't work well (although you may be lucky). Cheers H

Hi guys. Finally got around to refitting my gearbox, never done this before and could do with a little advice...apologies in advance if this sounds a bit dense. At what point is the box considered to be correctly aligned/fitted to the engine? I get a sort of clunk sound when I push the box against the engine but there's still a gap of a around 1cm all the way around (between bellhousing and engine) - surely things can't still be misaligned with such a small gap?? Do I just start adding bolts now or is a little more finesse required first? Any advice appreciated - this is starting to drive me nuts and beginning to hurt! Cheers H!

Hi All, I bought a cheap short shifter off Ebay some months ago and put it away whilst the engine and box were out of the car. Problem is I've now come to fit it and it won't split into it's constituent 3 sections - top section comes off but the bottom and mid sections are well and truly stuck together. As it is I can't fit it into it's 'pivot mount'. I've tried heat, mole grips etc but nothing will shift it - I've made a bit of a cosmetic mess of it now! Anyone come across this before? Any suggestions how I gould get a better grip of the mid section? I've been back to the seller who hasn't been particularly helpful. Cheers for any help. RobH

Hi All, Just put the engine back in after replacing/removing as much as I could be bothered and could afford to. Stock boost solenoids have been redundant for some time due to an AVC-R. Am I correct in thinking that I can connect the wategates directly to the low pressure ic pipes and cap off the nipple on the turbo intake hard pipes that the teed solenoid connection usually connects to...? Thanks in advance for any help. RobH

My word that's cheap ;-) Think they may have made a b**b as the VG30DETT set is much more expensive than the Skyline sets...I'd take advantage of their 'kind offer' if I was you ;-) Ciao H!