RobH

I'm starting to suspect the ignition barrel...

Hi guys, Just had the steering column off to try and fix an ongoing steering prob (hopefully fixed now) but on starting up it appears I've lost the above mentioned electrical services. I disconnected a few bits and pieces to make column removal easier and just wondering if I've not connected something back up. I can't see anything loose that should be connected apart from a second, 3 way connector from the ignition switch but Can't find anything to plug this in to :-( The odd thing is that when I first turned the key, halfway through reinstall, I'm sure the pod was working. This car is seriously beginning to do my nut in, I get 2 new problems for every 1 that I fix! Any ideas? Cheers H

NGK designed the OEM plugs specifically for the VG30DETT engine, the non turbo uses a less precise spec which is fitted to a number of other vehicles. If your car is standard then best to stick with the NGK original spec, PFR6B-11C, mild tuning = PFR6B-11B - not available from NGK UK and no longer in production as far as I'm aware. If you have notable mods then an aftermarket plug is the only way to keep the plug tip temperature within limits, you may lose a little efficiency at idle/low speed but better that than putting a hole in a piston. IK22 should be fine for higher boost but won't last an awfully long time. NGK BKR7EIX are equivalent, should last a bit longer but the trade off is slightly less performance. These have a smaller preset gap which you will need if you run a lot of boost, the standard plugs will most likely misfire under high loads and high boost. Best balance of performance and service life for modified cars should be Denso VK22 (Iridium tough) the trade off being cost. Major mods would need a colder heat range and preferably a race plug to minimise the risk of engine damage through plugs self destructing. Cheers H

Hi Guys, I've just taken my steering column off for measurement, the column should be approx 746mm according to the manual and the lower shaft approx 315mm (RHD). I just want to confirm I'm measuring it correctly before I go and order any replacement parts. I'm measuring from either end of the shaft to the centre of the connecting UJ pinion. Measuring this way I've found the lower shaft is correct for a LHD model (approx 280mm) and the column itself is about right at 745mm. Perhaps the manual has LHD/RHD confused? Is anyone able to confirm the correct lower shaft length for a Jap spec RHD model please? Thanks in advance. RobH

Sounds good to me. Wouldn't surprise me if the whole column was dodgy anyway... Cheers H

Ah Jeff! Thought you weren't talking to me. Sent you a few pm's with no reply. Are we talking about the whole column or just the lower section (presumably)? I'll perhaps remove it and check against the length specified in the manual. Is it difficult to get out? Cheers H

Cheers Baz, no, I had to slide it right up to get the old one off. Perhaps it's not on straight (?) I put the replacement on in the same position as the original, wheels dead ahead and steering wheel centralised. I noticed a dot on the splined shaft where it connects to the rack, should this be aligned with anything in particular? Wondering if it had been put on wonky and the steering wheel adjusted to compensate (?) although I suppose this wouldn't make a difference to how far up the steering column splines it sat. It's as though the steering column is too short. It was a bit of a struggle to get the new UJ on, if the steering column was any longer it would have been more or less impossible. I expect I'm missing something elementary.. Cheers H

Hi Guys, Been having probs with the steering feeling notchy so decided to try a replacement UJ. The old one was sloppy but I have another problem, please see the attached pics. The UJ only just hangs on the the bottom of the steering column when connected to the rack, the pinch bolt isn't really located over the flat area in the splines of the column, it's on the very end of the column. Surely this can't be right?? Perhaps something else has gone awry? I've attached some pics in case I'm not explaining myself very well... Any advice/input appreciated. Cheers RobH

Thanks, I'm still not sure sbout the base voltage creeping up as it does but it's looking more likely that the problem is the column UJ! I've disconnected the PAS ecu completely and gone for a drive, it still feels very similar in that it's 'notchy' about the neutral position but of course it's heavier everywhere else. If anyone has a good 'un (UJ) they want to sell or even if able to loan it for a substitution test it would be appreciated. Cheers H PS how sad am I, trying to fix car and posting on here on xmas day!? Humbug!

That sounds logical but doesn't explain why it worked perfectly well for 10K miles without the autobox ecu connected. I've done some further testing today, spliced a multimeter into the PS solenoid wiring, if JeffTT is about I would very much appreciate your opinion as you seem to know the steering system inside out! At first startup, engine cold, voltage is approx 4.8V. Voltage drops smoothly as speed is increased BUT when returning back to low speed/idle the voltage has now crept up to about 5.5V and continues to increase gradually, max I saw was 5.65V but I only ran the car for about 20 mins, it may have carried on increasing over time or may have evened out at normal operating temperature (82 degrees today). If anyone can tell me if this is good or bad it would be much appreciated! Cheers H

LOL - not to worry, I suspect it will show the same as mine, solenoid operating but not what the voltage is. Shame really as a voltage readouot would be extremely useful at this stage.. Cheers H

Ok, cheers, I'll take a look. I've pulled all the boxes out of the passenger footwell in the meantime. I run a manual gearbox in what used to be a Jap auto, I disconnected the autobox controller some time ago without problems, just wondering if that could be affecting anything now...? There are 4 boxes in my footwell, the main ECU, the autobox controller and two that I'm unfamiliar with, not sure which is the PAS controller, guessing the larger one behind the main ECU. The other smaller box is labelled as ASCD, cruise controller? Not much to see really, connectors look good, worth dismantling the PAS controller to inspect? Cheers H

Thanks Paul but mine was actually working perfectly well for a few miles when first started up again, I'd assume this wouldn't be the case with a seized or damaged linkage :-( I guess I should take a look anyway though, even if just to rule it out... Cheers H

Well I got a spare pump now if you need one ;-) I think the PS pump is the least likely suspect in a chain of electrical and hydraulic weak spots! Znut, thanks for your kind offer, I have something similar to Consult myself but can only see that the switch is operating as it should be - don't know if yours can tell you anything more useful?? Cheers H

Ok, thanks. I've tried both of these but without improvement. I'm starting to suspect the PS solenoid. Is there any way to test this or is it just a case of 'swap it and see'? Cheers H

Hmm..cheers for that. I guess the cluster will have to come out again :-(. I think it's feeling too heavy at idle and low speed, although it's hard to remember what it should feel like, logically this would indicate overestimating the speed wouldn't it?? The speedo circuit board is inside the cluster casing? Just want to be sure before I go dismantling things that I don't need to dismantle ;-) Cheers H

Hi all, I'm having what appears to be a common problem, steering sometimes heavy, sometimes light, often 'notchy' around the central position. This is almost all the time now. So far I've replaced the PS pump (PITA!) and fluid, checked the connections behind the instrument cluster (the km/mph convertor is soldered in, all connections look good and I've reinsulated), checked the PS solenoid connections (look fine), checked the speed sensor (looks fine according to Jeff's pics) and the sensor connector (no problems). ECU has recently been reset. Car has been off the road for a couple of months, when I first got it running again the problem appeared to have been resolved, it's gradually getting worse again. There are two potential clues: 1. There is a slight leak of PS fluid from somewhere near the solenoid, can't see exactly where as it's all pretty wet down there. 2. The speedo occasionally stops working, a tap on the dash can sometimes bring it back to life, this does not coincide with the steering problem. What would logically be the next items to check? I spose fixing the leak would be the priority (?) although it's been leaking for years and the steering problem has only recently appeared. Are the kmh/mph converters prone to internal problems? Any help appreciated. Cheers H

I guess Nistune more or less removes the need for an AFC. Can't remember exactly what the cost was but me and a mate bought the software license and Consult cable between us, the only other expense was the daughterboard which is installed in the ECU. Think we ended up paying about £450 between us including shipping fron Aus, would be about £300 for a all the bits required for 1 install. If you're going to 'fiddle' with it yourself you really need a wideband O2 sensor as well, we got an Innovate LC-1 for about £150. nistune.com. Cheers H

Not to worry, I used an oil can to bleed it in reverse and all seems to be well. Cheers H

Or you can install something like Nistune (or megasquirt, I think, according to some folks) and remotely program your ECU 'on the fly' using a laptop, prob best to let an expert do this for you on a rolling road if you're not confident, saves a lot of fiddling about with programming chips. This method also gives you good diagnostic info whenever you want it. I can't speak highly enough of Nistune, even though I'm beginning to sound like a scratched record :-D Cheers H

Hi guys, The Z is finally running again. Amongst other things I've pulled out all the overengineered clutch pipework and gone straight from the master to slave cylinder with a stainless hose - assuming this would make bleeding easier. I expected gravity to be enough to get the air out of the system but apparently not. No pressure at all in the system :-(. I guess the master must be full of air (?) I'm now not confident that going straight from master to slave was the right thing to do, although I can't see why not. Can anyone confirm this is ok please? I'm going to try the oil can 'reverse bleed' method if all else fails. Festive Cheers, RobH

Hi guys, My steering is suddenly exhibiting unpleasant symptoms in as much as it gets heavy when starting to turn (e.g. when cornering after driving straight or trying to straighten up after cornering). Once the steering wheel starts to move it's reasonably light, probably best described as notchy about the neutral position. This is leading me to both over and understeer, too dangerous to drive now :-( I know the system has a leak, my driveway has been collecting puddles of fluid for the last year or so, but it hasn't really been a problem so long as I've kept topping the HICAS reservoir up. I suspect the pump has finally gone but if anyone recognises the symptoms I've described as being more likely a different problem I'd be interested to hear. Oh, I should add that it's a Jap TT with speedo conversion and speedo is working properly. Thaks in advance RobH

Does seem a bit odd that your tubs didn't come with suitable actuators. Good luck and do keep us informed how you get on. I still have lots of leaks to remedy before I can blame the actuators - but it may yet come to that... good luck replacing the drivers side! Cheers H

I wouldn't be too sure about it being the actuators, 8psi is the operating pressure but if you have a controller of some kind then the actuators won't be seeing anything like this - that's the whole point of a boost controller. My bet would be one or more boost leaks, even if you've checked, check again! I've found leaks I wouldn't even have thought possible since borrowing a compressor off a friend. The springs are integral to the actuators so you'd have to split them open to uprate them - more reliable and less messy to fit new actuators. Cheers H

No, got bigger problems than that at the mo, clutch booster appears to have sprung a leak, can hear it hissing at idle sometimes. I'll probably be in the market for a replacement shortly if anyone has a decent spare (?) Cheers H