RobH

Yeah, unfortunately the hardware that Z1 supplied with their kit doesn't leave enough room to fit the sender directly into this location. I've fitted a 90 deg elbow and ended up with the sender perilously close to the RHS turbine housing, I'm sure it won't last long here but at least I can check the pressure at startup, I'll get an aftermarket solution if necessary :-\ Cheers H

Hey matey! See my post from today :( Had a few probs but well and truly stuck at the moment. Changed my email set up so may have lost a few in the process, sorry, should be working ok now though... H

Grrr!! This is doing my nut in now, for every one thing I reinstall I have to remove two others to give myself space to work! I wouldn't mind so much but the first time I pulled the engine I had no real probs at all! I'm now at a bit of an impasse, engine and box are in, just come to reinstall the steering UJ/knuckle and find the 5 bolt downpipes I bought with the Z1 turbo kit are right in the way, the pipes need to be about 5mm toward the passenger side or vice versa for the steering connector shaft. I've read that some folks have made some mods to allow 3" downpipes to be fitted, how is this done?? Mine are only 2.5" Z1 items. Short of hitting it with a lump hammer I'm a bit stuck - although I would feel a lot better for it... Hope someone can help. Cheers H

Hi guys, stupidly forgot to check which line went to which metal pipe for the oil cooler when I took the engine out. Can someone confirm that the drain line to the sump is connected to the lower of the two pipes please? i.e. drivers side of the cooler. Also would it really matter which way round they went?? Any check valves etc?? I can't find a reference in the online manual :( Cheers H

Hmm..Jimmer are you using a 90 degree elbow or screwing it straight into the oil filter tree? Without the elbow (pointing down) I have problems with clearing the RH turbo oil return line, with the elbow it interferes with the (metal) pipework for the steering rack. Just to confirm, you're referring to the hex bolt type blanking plug on the side of the filter tree rather than the allen bolt type plug at the rear (gearbox side) of the tree? Cheers H

Hi guys. I've fitted a new turbo kit but unfortunately it's designed for the US market and the oil feed lines do not allow for the stock oil pressure sender in the stock location. On US cars I believe it's fitted to the oil filter tree but having just slotted my engine back in it's pretty obvious that the steering rack gets in the way for RHD cars :-(. I've had to remove the sender again to get the engine in. I don't really want to fit an aftermarket gauge or sender, ideally I'd like some kind of adapter that would allow me to fit it back onto the LHS turbo oil feed where it comes out of the block, a banjo union with an additional 1/8 NPT take off would be ideal. Does anything like this exist?? If not any other suggestions? Thanks in advance RobH

Thanks Jimmer. I did wonder about using sealant. I've got an ancient tube of over priced Nissan branded stuff, to be fair it is excellent though... I can get the collar close but it seems to be about 1mm proud of fully home, there's a small gap in other words. I'll have another go at it later. I'm having to relocate the oil sender to the oil filter tree, got some new Z1 BB turbos to fit and their custom oil feed lines don't allow for the sender. Cheers H

Thanks, I'll get on to it this afternoon!

Hi All. I'm swapping some bits from my old engine to new. I've found a few posts about installing the dipstick tube but nothing about removal?? Is it just a push fit? Any tips for getting it out without damaging it? Tips on installation would also be appreciated. BTW the engine is out of the vehicle. Cheers H

The HKS Iridium plugs are Denso Iridiums but sold at a higher cost. PFR6B-11C are the standard NGK double platinum plugs designed specifically for the VG30DETT engine. PFR6B-11 are standard for the NA (and many other cars) and differ in not having an extra projected and shrouded tip, there are true Iridium equivalents to this plug but not to the PFR6B-11C. All the same I think most people who have noticed any problem with an Iridium plug in the VG30DETT have fitted an unsuitable part. NGK UK have never published an application guide for Iridium plugs (other than OE) so it depends who you talk to as to what part they suggest. NGK also made PFR6B-11B, which is a further modification and makes the plug more suitable for a hotter running engine (i.e. tuned/driven hard). As far as I'm aware production of this plug stopped a good few years ago although there is still stock here and there. Unless you really need a colder plug it's best to stick to the OE part. Iridium plugs work out a fair bit cheaper but not by the time you've added shipping if you buy them from the USA (you may also get hit for import VAT, customs and handling) Cheers, H

You have my sympathy mate, let me know if you get any good deals on parts etc, I'm in the same boat. Looking at Eagle rods and Wiseco over size pistons from the USA (guess wherebay) for about £850 delivered with duties paid. It's stuff like gaskets that are the killer, might as well do the timing belt whilst engine is out, do water pump whilst doing the belt...etc..etc Cheers H

I did another 250 miles in mine and it's now a basket case. I'm now not 100% sure that it's the internals that are knkd, sounded terrible when I got it home but I think this was just lack of oil. It's now spat any oil that was left all over my drive so it may just be an external leak that was spraying on the turbos/exhaust when boosting. Better build a forged engine though - just to be on the safe side ;-) Cheers H

Insanezed, wastegates open at a preset max boost (controlled by the actuator spring rating) and close when you lift off the throttle, recircs or dump/blow off valves operate (open) when you close the throttles (the vacuum created operates recirc/bov). Turbo labyrinth seals are more likely to leak at lower revs, idle or even when engine is off and parked facing uphill. Cheers H

I'm guessing you were only able to gas it in the lower gears in town, 1st and 2nd are more or less ok for me, it's a sustained blast in 3rd or 4th that gives me a rear view whiteout after gear change..perhaps allowing longer for pressure build up..? I can feel a forged engine and crippling pains in the wallet coming on. Be interested to hear what the expert diagnosis is. Cheers H

Think I'd been losing oil gradually anyway, though no obvious smoke, last trip out before oil change was 300 miles without checking. One thing that might be relevant, my oil pressure gauge reads quite high (3/4 scale) when cold, drops down to between 1/4 and 1/2 once warmed up. Stayed between 1/4 and 1/2 previously. OEM Sender unit may be knackered again though, it's done 60K miles. Cheers H

Not wanting to hijack but I've got almost exactly the same thing, started yesterday after an oil change, little more than 2L was drained out with a filter change! Only difference I can see is that my dipstick hasn't popped. Removing the dipstick when hot I get a swirl of oil smoke/vapour coming out. Seems to be down on power as well considering the boost it's making. Proper cloud of smoke comes out after nailing it and changing gear. My PCVs were new about 10K miles ago. Last compression test didn't look too promising, figures were considerably higher wet. Any thoughts? I'm expecting the worst anyway... Cheers H

Job done - thanks Tudor. Guys, if you have a spare key make sure it's in a useful place!! Although I don't have a spare set I do have different keys for each lock - on the keyring is not the best place for all of them ;-) Cheers H

Hi Tudor, you can PM me as far as I know but if not it's robh(a)sparkplugs.co.uk Cheers H

LOL - no offence Mr Smith ;-) Still not sorted though, waiting for one of the good people on here to reveal the secret of illicit entry to me...so to speak Cheers H!

Just noticed another very similar thread posted recently but obviously not answered publicly. Is it possible for this info to be posted in forum with members only access?? I'm still sat here holding my breath if anyone would be good enough to put me out of my misery. I can be PM'd now.. Cheers H

Yup, just renewed, didn't realize it would be an instant renewal, thought I'd have to wait for the club secretary's hangover to wear off ;-). Hopefully I can be pm'd now. I'm currrently holding my breath ;-) Fair point about not advertising the easy way into a Z but let's face it, any little scrote with a screwdriver could get in if they weren't paying to repair the damage :-\ Cheers H

Oh shoot, my subs have expired, didn't realize.. :-( If anyone wants to mail me at robh (a) sparkplugs.co.uk it would be appreciated. I will be coughing up my membership again shortly.. Cheers H

LOL, very helpful, thank you. Mikey Bean, would you care to share you're solution or does that involve breaking something more expensive than an ancient (and mismatched) door lock as well!? TBH I was having trouble getting in with the keys, the locks were a bit frozen up and the doors were frozen shut. Can't believe I let both the doors shut whilst the keys were inside :-( I guess if I could manually release the boot?? Not sure where the boot catch operating cable runs though. Cheers H

Hi guys, merry Christmas to all! As a Christmas treat for me, whilst I was running the engine and checking the coolant, my car decided to lock both doors. Unfortuately I only have 1 set of keys and they were in the ignition. Hmph, disconnected the battery and the PTU to stop the engine etc and went to find my spare remote locking transmitter fob. It did nothing. So, I swapped the battery but of course this needs the fob to be resynched with the alarm. This didn't work either, totally dead, presumably because the igntion is still in the 'on' position the remote will not operate the central locking... So, the only option I can think of is to shove a screwdriver in the drivers door lock and bust it open. Anyone got any better ideas? This will leave me with a requirement for a replacement driver's side door lock (are they sided?). Does anyone have a spare they'd be prepared to sell please? Festive cheers! RobH

Yep, my fault, indirectly. I suspect it wouldn't have become an issue if the engine hadn't got hot enough to 'super shrink' the insulating shrink tubing. Just beware if you've insulated any wiring in this way, perhaps add a couple of turns of pvc tape just to be safe and if it runs on 5 or less cylinders with no apparent cause fix it before you drive! Cheers H