Maz

should be easy to fit if it´s the right one ...on the back of the Boss ..(the side where the steering wheel doesn´t fit on ) there should be a little square cut out of the cross bar thingy ( strip that runs across to strengthen the boss ) and that square cut out should fit right over the HICAS thing on the steering coloumn. If there´s no square cut out it won´t fit ..you´ll have to cut it out yourself :)

when you say "it boosts, then holds back " does it "hold back" at around the Safe mode or even before then ?

E4 = EuroNorm 4 emission = CO 1000, NOx 60, HC 75 I believe a Z has E2 0r at best E3 which = CO 2300 , NOx 150, HC 200 ...I bet that was now of no help what so ever :)

"is there such a thing as a pod with no cruise control buttons???" 89-91 (something like that ) models have the cruise control buttons on the steering wheel hence there are then no buttons for cruise control on the pods :)

"i thought the one way valves were to stop the washer fluid draining back into the resevoir when the pump is not in use !" You´re probably right Paul, that is for the valves that are in the OEM system, but I tool it that Manta V8 was talking about adding some additional ones, perhaps further "up" closer to the actual sprayer nozzle. I could be totally wrong though. :)

"Fit one way valves in the washer line mate,cheap plastic things they are but stop this! " Now there´s an idea..simple but effective...i guess I was expecting something highly technical ..cheers for that mate ..sorted :)

hey up Guys First off all I´d like to thank you all for your help in the past few months ,I even managed to sort the temp gauge problem eventually, although i have no idea how, just worked again after being dismantled and reassembled for the 10th time :) New "problem" , although it´s not really a "problem" just a minor thing ...when I have to brake hard ( Germany with no speed limits on the motorway *grin*) water sprays out from the left windscreen wiper fluid jet thingy, anyone got any ideas ..other than avoid braking hard ? cheers Maz

yeah I realize it´s not the most accurate to say the least...but "half way" looked fine,,and plus you could see if the car was getting too hot..now it just goes up a fraction and sticks there mate.

Hi Yet another minor problem. I took the gauge cluster out to change some bulbs, reassembled the whole thing and now the temp gauge doesn´t work properly. The needle only moves up a fraction as the engine gets hot but not even quarter of the way. (usually at halfway ) I´ve taken the thing apart now four times since yesterday and I still can´t find anything wrong :( I even changed the temp gauge as I had a spare one here , but it made no difference. Anyone got any ideas ? cheers Maz

and I quote: First, let's clear up some misconceptions running around the 300ZX world about short-throw shifters. Seems a lot of folks are installing shortened stock (or aftermarket) shifters and calling them a "short-shifter." They are not true short-throw shifters—they reduce the shift travel by lowering the height of the shift knob. A true short-throw shifter is longer than a stock shifter—the lengthened portion is below the control socket (fulcrum). The shift knob will remain at stock height; in fact the only way you will know that it's a short-shifter is when you shift—it will be a shorter throw.

LOL at "aerial motor" I liked that one Lynchmob Cheers Hellraiser, appreciate it :)

Hi I have a Strange whirring, buzzing sound coming from the rear of the car. Happens intermediately both when the car is running and when it’s just been switched off. It sounds like a valve releasing pressure in that the sound slowly fades away,( before I can find the exact location) but the sound itself could be electrical in nature like a whirring electric motor, could it be the fuel pump? Any ideas ? Maz

07 90 - 09 91 wire fuse link # 24021-V5020 Blue type that should be the one i think

gotcha...I´d take the thing out when at the nissan dealer and show them it ..i think you´ll find it´s called a "fusible link" as opposed to a "fuse" ...I´m sure they´d be able to find the right one.

ah. okay..the little fuse box infront of the battery ( for me that is with a left hand drive ) ..the blue wire is marked up as "Battery" on the fuse box ..and ,´can´t you just remove it like a fuse link..i.e clipped in complete with base ?

I think the table of colours is wrong personally..it doesn´t match with what I have either ..according to my VN I have an 89 TT with a colour code on it that according to the table wasn´t used until 91-93

really ? I thought the TT had 245´s on the rear regardless, and the Na´s had 225´s allround ..then again I´m in Germany, what do I know about UK and Jap specs..other than the steering wheel´s on the "wrong" side

"the main engine fuse. " ? like a fuse link for the entire engine ?? " it's the big sucker with a blue wire loop coming out of it" where are you looking . engine bay, under the dash ...or do you mean the blue wire that seems to be in place of a fuse in the fuse box itself ?

hmmm i guess I must drive in a constant slumped position then or something LOL

The original steering wheel is 36cm ...if you go for a 35cm..like the MoMo Millenium *grin* you can still see the dial perfectly..i guess when you get down to the more "common" 32cm sports steering wheels you´re going to have problems with the dials.

cheers nzniggles , and steven, you´re both spot on ...tried it with a completely defferent battery and the problem´s sorted ..*big smile* Happy days

*thinks* ..wouldn´t that be down to the original relay used in the lighting system, i mean it utilizes the type of relay that switches the power from one lighting system ( dip ) to the other (main beam) when activated. The relay used when installing the HID´s is just to ensure they maintain a constant flow of electricity. so, I guess you´d have to bypass the original relay and hook up a completely different relay system, one that doesn´t just alternate between two points i.e one or the other, but never both.

Hiya steven I thought that at first too , would have explained why the charger was showing o amps while loading, Tried what you suggested though and still no joy..as soon as i switch the ignition on or use anything electrical there´s that feed back sound...plus i now noticed that it doesn´t appear to be relays clicking now instead it´s those round things on top of the shock absorbers that are used to electrical adjust the suspension are clicking like mad, even before you try and start the engine. things that make you go "hmmmmmm"

Hi everyone Yet another Z problem :o( Went down to start the car this morning and on turning the key the starter motor made an odd sound, like the magnetic contact thing wasn’t engaging , clicking kind of thing, the interior dash lights started to flicker , especially the battery light, there was clicking from various alternating relays ( or at least it sounded that way) from the foot panel area where the fuses are , then from the engine bay. Can also hear a sound in the speakers when trying to start , kind of like a feed back . Radio has been in for a while and noise continues even after the complete unit has been removed, Tried a charger /starter thingy and all that happens is that the interior lights get brighter and the flashing and clicking gets more erratic :o( Anyone got any ideas ? Cheers

Hi having problems locating a steering wheel hub/Boss for my Z ( for a Momo steering wheel ) I have found a few from the UK and AUS but I´m actually in Germany at the moment driving a left hand drive US Spec Z and was wondering if anyone knows if the steering wheel hub for a right hand drive Z can be utilized on a left hand drive ? ( Niether of the dealers I asked knew ) Cheers Mario