Alic

Im guessing not because the light is very dim compared to the others and its not the positive. So the signal must be weak, It could be a low current, though im no physicist :lol:

Also if you can hide the HID ballast the MOT shops won't pick up on it most likely

As others have said, H3c is the correct bulb for jap cars and connects differently to the H3. You probably arent getting a ground

Would have swapped PTUs and ecus by now if I had one with me, but all my cars are in wales at the moment. Suppose I could noid light at the ecu side, or run a wire from ecu to injector. But I dont really want to splice into that wiring.

You cant ground it as it is a switched ground that opens the injector

Some posts seem quite spontanous as they were during testing, but here is the findings: Cylinder 1 and 2 do not fire. Cylinder 1 is what is described above, dry spark plug, multimeter showing 12v, but very dim led. I suspect weak signal with the ground? (may have been ground issues previously as it has a ground kit snakes around the engine bay everywhere. Cylinder 2 ive just gone to test. Injector wiring working as intended, injector within spec, and black sparkplug. Little if not no spark. Not a coilpack issue. Should i start with testing another ptu for this issue? What should I do about the suspected weak ground?

After playing for a few minutes, itl think it may be flashing but very dimly. So I'm temporarily running a 12v feed to the positive

Little update, Im not really sure what I've found out. Put an LED to the connector; on a working one it would flash as expected. On a non working connector, it would not flash. But tested with a multimeter again and they both show 12v. So not really sure what that suggests.

Yeah constantly live, I checked the voltage as they connectors have been spliced on, just checking that the connection was not broken or similar. Just did multi meter to each of the terminals on the plug, positive and negative (not proving much but just making sure no broken connections)

Voltmeter at the plug. I think it was the same voltage engine on and off although obviously a voltmeter isn't responsive enough to detect the voltage drop when the injectors supposed the open.

Just in case anyone has any suggestions to help me before I order some injectors. So the morning of the AGM the car started up missing on the front two cylinders which were previously running fine. First cleaned the injector plugs, no joy. Ive swapped coils and the problem persisted, checked spark and the spark is strong, pulled the plugs and they are dry and white leading me to believe it has indeed got no fuel. So I checked the resistance of the injectors and they are within spec at 12-13.8 ohms. Voltage also checks out at 12.8V (early style injectors btw). So although they are within spec the cylinder still has no fuel in it so may just put some new injectors in (hopefully before Simply Jap). Any other suggestions?

Cheers for the clarification was not completely sure

it was 97-98 model years I believe did not have a boost gauge (cost cutting?). Regarding the turbo timer, just dont drive the car hard in the last 10 mins of driving, just drive it around with low revs. That way there is air going through the oil cooler and cooling the oil, where just idling with a turbo timer, you are just moving around warm oil.

Looks clean mate.

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Fixed. We've gone back to the present.

shhhh

Video:

I had backfires from a dying Ptu.

Yeah if I did it i would do it on top of the block without the piston supports

I got a rod knocked block, I might do one

Had a great day, thanks for organising it.

They do unbolt, or if they are loose enough you can just push them off the ball joints, no clips.

If I could remind someone if they could bring a conzult to check my TPS etc :)

For a twin turbo those seem slow