cozza

Update: Found a pipeline diagram from a free online manual (http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/). The object I'm trying to remove is the fail-safe valve

Hey guys, going well but stuck now. Traced pipes back, found them snipped at the rear (along with snipped ex-brake pipes.. I'll be replacing all the brake pipes anyway due to corrosion leaks). There is a solid bar in place where the HICAS cylinder was though thankfully. So the two pipes from the front then join to a block at the rear, which is connected to two flexys, then another bolt holds these in place as they connect to their corresponding pipes. I've removed the pipe/flexy combo, but I can't get the block out that connects to the pipes going to the front. I've taken three 10mm nuts out but no more are visible, and only one part of it can be seen to wiggle slightly. Tried levering gently but can't get it removed. It isn't necessary since I can undo the pipes from it anyway, but would be nice to get it off. Does anyone know if this is held on by a hidden bolt or anything? Tried looking through the boot to see if one went through but its too far towards the middle for it to be there. Removed pipe/flexies: Block I can't remove (1) (2) Solid bar:

The sills aren't great, not confident with jacks/axle stands for a lengthy period of time. Had it up on some other strong points before for the rear but would really prefer it to be up on ramps. Reckon I could get to most of the difficulties from the rear? Or should I get the front up on ramps, remove what I can, then temporarily support and get the rear up? Assuming I did this once the rest of the engine bay is reassembled obviously. I'll start by topping the fluid once I've reassembled and check for leaks, then fully remove the HICAS once diagnosed. Found a few step by step tutorials but should be alright. Some more engine space would be good Thanks for the help guys

Cheers. Will get a look at the routing and see if I can confirm the HICAS removal plate/block at the rear, and the corresponding pipes. Few used tt pumps for sale on ebay. Also found a few non-OEM na pumps (need to import). Any brands you would recommend? Found BBB industries and Cardone. I'll likely try the £15 kit first though - student budget life

Thanks for the reply David. Is the HICAS system specifically for the tt? I think the pipes are still there, I'd need to check a routing diagram though. Brake pipes to the front have been replaced, and either are next to the power steering pipes, or the old brake pipes have simply been left in (if they follow the same route)

Hello, My 300zx (1990 Z32 tt) is a work in progress - bought it as a non runner. Current issue I'm facing is a horrific groan/whining from the power steering when the steering wheel is moved even slightly. I was going to go ahead and order a service kit, strip the pump down etc and try that before getting a new pump ££, but looking for confirmation of leaks first. I have a huge history for the car, and it shows the HICAS was removed in 2010 at 131k miles, shortly before it's SORN (owner passed away) in 2011 at 132k. Currently I have some of the engine stripped etc so can't start it up and test it with new fluid (is a little low), but I was just wondering if anyone knew about the pipeline layout I have in these pictures? There's been a fair bit of rerouting from the stock power steering system

I'll be replacing the timing belt/tensioners/power steering pump/waterpump and other belts after engine tests, waiting on parts arriving now. Thanks very much for the info and detail, still waiting for my cable to arrive but will hopefully get started on that soon.

Thanks for your responses guys I'm a DIY mechanic for basics but have never worked on a turbo before, thought I'd start big haha. Maybe not the best on a student budget but got it for a good price, will be working with my dad (>25 years working on cars every night) on it. Compression check will be the first thing yeah, and will run it for a bit longer with some revs and fuel cleaner to hopefully clean out the injectors. Found a guide for adjusting the CAS for timing so will get that sorted too. Is there software available online for the cable? Found one cable for around £55 from australia. I have diagnostics software for OBDs.

Any advice or past experiences are appreciated, first time posting on the forum. So I purchased a 1990 automatic Z32 twin turbo from the family of the previous owner who unfortunately passed away, and sold the car as a non runner. Lots of receipts etc, well serviced, custom exhaust and a few other small mods, car needs a lot of work (respray, front windshield to start off with) but I want to get it running first. History: Engine replacement and either new turbos or new turbo seals in 2003 (108k miles) Latest timing belt done in 2005 at 122k miles, still has no cracks and rotates nicely. New head gaskets in 2006 ( SORN from 2011 at 132k miles. Fuel tank was nearly empty and obviously very old fuel, put 10L of fresh fuel in so I don't think old fuel is the problem. The car turns over no problem, I've only ran it for upto 10 minutes at a time in park but the symptoms don't change: White smoke from both exhaust outlets Standard turbo gauge sitting at about -11 psi Custom turbo gauge sits at 0 psi even at 6k revs, sounds like there is an air leak at the gauge though, not sure if thats normal? (First time with a custom gauge). Rattling from front of engine, sounds like it's coming from under the left casing for timing belt, maybe a belt that needs tightened? (power steering groans when steering wheel is touched also) After a few minutes at idle, the smoke out the back begins to splutter. Can clearly see it and hear it. Also from observation, there is a not so thin film of oil in both exhaust outlets, and all over the subframe/pipework at the front of the car by the radiator/intercoolers etc Blown turbos seems the obvious solution given the evidence, but the smoke is quite clearly white/grey, and the spluttering suggests the main problem is with the engine itself such as the valve seals or fuel injectors? Oil looks clean, coolant level has always been near the max Any help is appreciated! Thanks