cozza

Dexron 3, Triple QX EP 75w90 (semi) is what I use for P/S and autobox

Thrice.. https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?187422-The-end-of-Project-Z

Doing a 2K in the gazebo is realistically out of the question, agreed there. Landlord has an old Citroen in the garage, can probably persuade him to allow me to use the garage, but even then I'm not sure about 2K given the extraction requirement and how my landlord is just about to get some kittens! Hypothetically, as the car is currently moostly painted in good ol rattle can red oxide primer (which looks alright to be honest) which was done during Summer last year to protect it ("temporarily"), would a another cellulose base coat with no clear coat work? As I hear most of the issues arise from the clear coat, slow drying solvent in the base coat evaporating with the suns heat/UV. Hypothetically! Do shout at me if it wouldn't

yeah that weight is long gone m8 but better late than never eh. If the Z makes it out of my driveway one day I'll find out

All replies noted and appreciated. Big no to cellulose, big no to painting in a non controlled environment. It's currently largely sanded/multiple colours/patched having recently been fully welded and refurbed. Do you think a spray-can job of matt or satin red/black would make it look okay over winter till I can afford a proper respray or garage/equipment etc? It'll be off road till April next year anyway. Inefficient cost wise I know. But got another ongoing project for a daily that currently takes priority I wouldn't mind the wrapped look but my fear is that I'd then want to respray it next year and have a nightmare getting it off again

Well.. definitely going to have to re-evaluate my situation hahah

I've read over multiple respray posts on here and other sites but have a few questions too. So I'm aware that cellulose paint is very frowned upon due to its lack of UV resistance, and am aware of the cyanide fumes from 2K paint. I'll be respraying my Z in a strong gazebo on warm evenings over the next month or so using a HVLP paint gun, and a 50L 8 bar compressor. I have time so I'm fine with say, one coat a night or less. Cellulose: Cheap, moderately easy to work with, but not great for a whole car and doesn't last very long if done incorrectly 2K: Expensive, easier to work with, great finish, lasts a long time, but huge issue with the fumes, especially me being outside with neighbours and housemates all around, then needing a special ventilated mask etc. So.. What about water based paint? Is there another clear coat option? Now what paint do you recommend I use, and how much do I need per coat? How many recommended coats? Or should I just wrap it instead?! Cheers

All sorted. Blanked both pipes, as is turns out the breather for the UK spec diffs is entirely separate. Quote from Bigh on another forum post when trying to find a part

I'll give them a go, cheers!

Hey all, Having a nightmare trying to find insurance for my 300. Got a quote a few months back of £385 on a comparison site when I was 23 years old on a 0 NCB policy as it's a 2nd car. Now I'm 24, it's gone up to £490 for the cheapest one, but that's excluding my boost controller and turbo timer as they don't have a mod category for those. Other comparison sites I'm getting over a grand. Lancaster won't insure me because I'm not >25, same with Footman James, Performance direct want £1687 with no mods declared, no quote with mods declared. Admiral won't insure me with any mods (even the custom cooling fan). Phoned up Adrial Flux but got bored after being on hold for 15 minutes. Any suggestions? 11 months till I'm 25 and my 300 is almost road worthy.. Cheers.

Just tried them, very friendly adviser but after all the detail input, I can't even get a quote for my car without the mods as I'm 24 and too young!

I assume it'd just be because it's the highest point in the fuel tank to allow vapour in, and the fuel gauge lever will hit it to indicate the tank is full so there will always be some vapour in the tank. But that's just a guess I'll see if I can disconnect the pipe from the flexible red tubing in my 2nd blurry pic and make a new one up adding fittings like a brake pipe. Cheers for the help all!

We are on about the fuel tank here right? I have this inside my tank, with that pipe coming from the now broken pipe on the surface. Sorry for the blurry pictures..

Would this connect to the pipe inside the tank too, or would you leave that in place and just have the CC fed by this vent?

Easy fix then, perfect! What are your thoughts on the carbon canister delete? More hassle that it's worth, or will I thank myself for it further down the line?

Pic: hd pic upload

Hi all, Refurbing the ol' fuel tank and the small vac line was very weak. Upon wire brushing I noticed a small hole, and hey presto it's now off. Am I right in saying this is the vac line for the carbon canister? Can't find much from googling. I'm wondering what the fuel (pun intended) purpose of this is/what it'd affect, and then.. how would I repair it? I can see roughly where it goes, and will be taking the fuel pump off regardless to get better access. Is it easy to route a new pipe in and secure it or will I need to weld it? Cheers!

Looking for a diff breather valve/plug, the one that sits on top of the diff in the centre just to vent off in the event of overpressure. Chucked mine in the bin by accident.. Car model is the 1990 TT Auto, UK spec. Cheers!

I use two sgs-engineering 2 ton low profile jacks, get them in from the front of the car. Pretty good, seem strong, and the lever socket rotates too. However I'm not a fan of the normal 3 ton normal jack they have. Jacked under the diff, within an hour the car begins to lower.

Diff cooler was removed. I blanked both of them off for now, but I'm looking for a breather plug just incase

All sorted, cheers for the help. Just for future reference on anyone trying to undo a rusty plug, good ol' WD40 did the trick. Luckily I had time, so I sprayed it every 2 days for 2 weeks and it came off no problemo.

Going okay, only 3 more panels to go! Floor required further cutting than i thought. Fabricating that corner.. jesus. Any advice on the targa roof drain replacement? Would simple garden hose work?

Almost thought it was my car there looking at the pics! In exactly the same situation. Pipes done but onto all the welding now, front sills/floors too. Keep it up! P.s. unsure of what rear arch welding you have left but be wary.. welding too high in the arch behind the rear passenger seat I encountered some kind of felt padding by the wire loom. I say encountered. I mean took my welding mask off after a nice job and looked inside to see it on fire

All good! Thanks for the pack

Sounds very appealing for leaving a grommet' hole then for spraying in more underseal. Taken it back past the rear sill quarter panel, considering just doing the whole side This is it ready to weld (hah jk). Still a good bit of cutting to do. It's crept right into the jack support (and i have since removed my axle stand from that area..), luckily the ~3mm steel is still solid. Going to clean it up nice and shiny, take it back further if need be, and weld additional plates on before going onto the standard plates so I'm confident in the strength. Have you guys welded additional panels in this manner too? Or will this cause moisture trap and future corrosion?