cozza

Ah I've read your post over many times redwine, exact same issues, floor panels etc all needing done too. Your welding has inspired me haha

"It doesn't look too bad at the rear, I'll just replace this repair panel whilst I'm here and the fuel tank is out" More of an informative post but this looks like what can happen when you repair the rear sills without extending/replacing the targa roof drain. These were welded in 2011, and the car has done 1000 miles since then before my purchase as a project. Anyone else experienced this and have any advice? Was thinking of cutting a peep hole into the new metal I use for future purposes, such as with the front sills, thoughts? So I saw this panel, small hole near the subframe supports, cut it off.. Camera inside it: Could rip the metal apart with my fingers Outer panel off And the suspected culprit

Wondering if anyone has a spare fuel filler neck to sell? I have a fuel cap, but the neck itself has seen much better days. Unsure if there are different spec sizes, but it's for a 1990 UK Auto TT. I live in Dundee but regularly drive to Aberdeen and Edinburgh at weekends, else happy to pay for postage. Cheers!

Just posting to inform I've bank transferred for my first subscription, cheers!

Dan yeah that was me, at the time I saw the bolts as an easier alternative to linking the pipes. Do you think i do not need a breather for the UK diff, or should I get one now that I have blocked them off instead?

Reckon it'll be okay then if I drain it and fill it with 2.1L? As for the breather, I pulled off a pipe, but googling I see posts about a plastic breather cap?

Damn. Pic link: https://ibb.co/dCVLmF

1990 UK spec auto TT Alright so a long time ago I had the subframe/diff off for refurb, removed the diff cooler and pipes (including the area circled in green), blocked them off with bolts, had the diff upside down and drained all the fluid. Fitted it all. Finally got round to filling the diff now with fresh oil. Seen posts saying I'll need upto 2.1L of diff oil for the UK spec model. Now this is where my problem occurs.. The normal drain plug (which is square) was very corroded/stuck, hence draining when it's flipped. I was unaware of a filling plug, assuming it is filled from the upper pipe cycled below with the (temporary) wheel nut in it.. where I have now filled about 2.8L worth of fluid and do not see an end in sight.. So. What in gods name have I just done to my diff? Are there two areas with two separate fluids? how to upload an image to the internet

Perfect cheers, ordered up now

Yeah that's what I would have thought but just thought I'd check. Will get crackin, thanks

Hi all, Got a 1990 G reg TT auto, and just taken off the balance bar to get to the plugs and refurb the bar. It's been off before and sealed using instant gasket, but the o-rings have worn to nothing. Does anyone know off hand the dimensions of the o-rings? And recommend a good instant gasket that'll seal well, but I'll be able to take it off again in the future? Cheers!

Hi all, Deciphering an electric power leak when the car is off, battery drains within a day or less. It's a 1990 G reg auto TT. Battery charges fine when the car is running, and has just recently been replaced. The previous owner added many electrical mods, with the pure mayhem of which pictured below with a third party alarm (Falcon Predator XL3, black box where the wires are all going into in pic 2). There is a red switch here also that connects to the alarm (pic 2, left, red/yellow wires), I'm assuming to disarm it from inside the car? And also a variable controller on the black box with the screws sticking out of it (pic 2), not sure what that does. Aaand a turbo boost controller in the form of a variable resister (on the right, blue/brown wires) There's also a a huge kenwood amplifier, speakers, gps snooper, actuator valve controller, custom fan switch, and the 3 settings for the auto transmission box have been changed to button switches. And a spring inside the engine bay which can be pressed, as if the bonnet pressed on it when closed, with wires going somewhere I do not know. I never arm the alarm, but sometimes when the battery has been drained and I'm jump starting it, it will immobilise till I unplug the battery and try again. There is also a battery killswitch in the engine bay, but I'm unsure whether he added this after or before the battery drain problems.. So I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on this, whether it could be the alarm draining power even it is disarmed, or if there are any other specific areas to pay attention to? Cheers!

Thanks guys, found the Dexron 3. On that note, what about the diff fluid? Seen recommendations for Redline synthetic 75w90. What about Triple QX EP 75w90? (fully syn, can get in semi too)

Looking at ATF Dexron 2 for my power steering, and auto gearbox oil, do people agree/disagree? Same oil for both? And in terms of brands, locally available is Triple QX or Granville Cheers!

All good. Just for anyone else wondering, nominal operating temperatures are 80-85'C, maxing out at 105'C in traffic on warm days

All the places nearby only deal in industrial scales pipes. Any idea on the max temperstures? Difficult to find pipes that can have oil and cope with >100'C, found one at 125'C but I know these cars run pretty hot

...on that note.. what's your thought on a P/S cooler delete? Car is for road use. Talking max journeys of 3h on motorways

Ah of course. Did that for the fuel pipes too. Measuring them up at 10mm pipe OD and 10mm rubber hose ID. Cheers Jeff! Also on another note, looks like my P/S radiator has seen better days..

Hey, doing a lot of work at the front replacing power steering pump/120k service/engine coolant radiator etc. It's an auto (1990 TT) thats had the air con removed, with auto box pipes routed to the air con radiator, and a manual engine radiator. Got some nasty oil leaks from just about every metal pipe going to the radiators, mostly the power steering, and engine oil pipes. Access is okay since just about everything is out, happy to make my own pipes for the short power steering connection. Just wondering what's the easiest option from people's experience? New ready to order pipes? Make my own pipes? And if so, what size/grade? Any advice appreciated, cheers!

Bit of a long shot, but worth a try. My Z is still off road and needs a fair bit for its MOT, all of which I can do myself with time, but I've recently moved from Edinburgh to Dundee and don't have a garage or drive to work in. Car may even be MOT'd by the time it's moved, and just needing TLC work and storage. So looking for a garage/workshop to rent/share that can fit my car and some basic tools, ideally not too far from Dundee. More than open to sharing with another Z enthusiast. If you know of anything then please get in touch! Cheers

Cheers for the advice all. After I've done the engine work I'll get it in for it's welding/potential MOT, if all goes well I'll get some nice pics too

Thanks again redwine. Hmm they are available.. but £259.10 + VAT + shipping for one outer sill haha, thanks though

The fear is real. Working on my Z project, pumping in a fair bit of £ to the rear, but now onto the front of the car. It needs welded, I know a good guy, but would be easier for everyone with pre-fabricated panels for the sills. I've seen all the posts for rear panels, but are there any available for the front? Pictures of a hole in the side of the drivers floor pan after prodding with a screwdriver, and the side skirt which is a write off too. The paint is my own doing. And don't worry, the jacks aren't under the sills, got two at the cross member, and two at the chassis Cheers!

Damn. The one I did get out, tried to put in the new bolts I have (same fitting) and they are very unhappy trying to go in. The other ones are drilling out okay actually. Worst case I'll drill the thread and try making a new thread. One alternative would be to cut a small hole in the arch to feed a nut or bolt in, but I can only seeing that making the situation worse. Cheers mark, will hopefully get it sorted haha

Ah that makes sense.. cheers. I feared as much. I'll get on it. Any chance of routing a new bolt through the top by taking off the interior trim/carpet etc?