cozza

The other option is that this is correct, and the faint circular markings on the member stay are coincidental? P.s. 3 out of 4 of the bolts connecting the member stay to the car sheared. I wasn't going to go through with drilling them out yet as I need to get the car lowered and movable asap. Is this a safety concern, or are these purely to support large washers/incorrect design? Cheers

Amateur mistake and not marked where I got these bits from! Been so long that I can't figure out one of the pieces. Fitted driftworks polybushes, hence the large 3mm metal washer (which I assume goes on the bottom side of the bush). From the diagrams I have and memory, I know where the member stay goes, so from the bottom I have the nut > member stay > washer > bush/subframe. My question is, what the hell is this other thing I've refurbished? I'm sure I took it off here.. I've tried fiddling but can't figure out where it's used. It doesn't fit nicely between the member stay and the washer/bush, but has circlular mark the perfect size of the nut, as if it goes nut > this thing > member stay > washer > bush, and it fits in nicely to the member stay hole...but... the mark of the nut is on the other side, meaning it'd be a terrible fit Any input appreciated!

I used copper pipes for all of mine, but did one end of the car at a time. *Jacked up the rear with subframe off etc. *Replaced all rear wheel pipes (ABS actuator to splitter; Splitter to offside wheel; Splitter to nearside wheel - 3 in total) *Cut and replaced the other 4 pipes (front two wheels and two for BB/reservoir), but with their length finishing midway along the length of the car, disconnected at the front end *Lowered, jacked up the front, wheels off *Cut and replaced the 4 pipes at the front end of the car, connecting them to their correct new pipe midway along the car, if that makes sense Not the most ideal fix in terms of pressure loss/leaks/professional finish, but it worked for me since I couldn't get the front of the car up at the same time. Also the diagram shows where the joiner/splitters are, represented by the white blocks. Ideally don't want more joins than that, since they are there for a reason for ease of brake pipe replacement. But I ended up with two more due to the car being pinned up against my house wall. Had no issues though. Hope this spiel helps

Did that job myself recently. Access is difficult, but I had the subframe out for other work so it was easy for me. At least half of the brackets that hold the pipes in place were mashed by the end of it. 5 pipes at the rear just in front/above the fuel tank. *Three down the full length of the offside (one for front offside wheel, one from brake booster/reservoir, and a return to brake booster/reservoir) *One down the full length of the nearside (front nearside wheel) *One short pipe connecting to a splitter, with one pipe then going to rear nearside, and one pipe going to rear offside

Haha is there anything about these cars you don't know Jeff? :P Good to get it cleared up, cheers. Bit of weight reduction eh

Ayye good good! Cheers

1990 Z32 TT. So I was stripping the interior of my boot lid to refurb the rubber seals etc, and noticed this block attached to the bootlid. I thought maybe it was part of the mechanism for the (removed) rear windscreen wiper, but there are no connections. It's just a metal block connected by rubber to the brackets that bolt it to the bootlid via the holes to the left and right of the block in the picture (2x10mm bolts). Just wondering if anyone knows what its purpose is? Weight distribution? Bolt on block to replace a windscreen wiper mechanism? Cheers

Richard, as it stands there's no insurance, tax or MOT, so that's out of the question. The windscreen has a gaping hole in it from a large bottle missile. That would have been perfect JaiKai, but I've not actually done it before myself, would be tough to lug my guy along with his schedule unfortunately

Hi BigDutts, Nah man not yet. I put my request for a quote for the glass up on national windscreens, got one quote for a used windscreen for £100 + £50 delivery. At that price I'm tempted to just fork out and get it done professionally, at least it'll be under a warranty that way. Going to shop around anyway, but my 300 is currently on axles for other work

I have a friend who has done windscreen replacements before, but is there anything special about the Z we should know about? In particular, trim that cannot be saved. Got a quote from national windscreens a while back for something like £290 + VAT for the window and fitting, excluding any trim, which is pretty high, hence my worry. Also if anyone knows of suppliers of the glass in/near Edinburgh please mention (blue tint) Cheers

Perfect, problem solved! Thanks all

Was it 1991 or 1993 when there was a change in emission/cat laws? But either way, thank ****, was dreading the thought of new cats hahah

I'm amateur but not a noob, and I'm pretty sure something ain't right. Took my exhaust off to do some other work (1990 Z32 TT), and I couldn't help but notice there are no cats on the underside of the car. But fair enough, I've fixed cars before with cars in the engine bay. But then I saw replacement exhausts etc and they all had the cats on the underside of the 300zx, so I followed my pipework and I know where the lambda sensors are (right behind the engine bay) but as far as I can tell, I can't see cats? My car had its exhaust system replaced in 1998 immediately after the last owner purchased it, and I have receipts every year for parts/MOTs since but none mention a decat, and none mention emission failures/advisories for MOTs - although perhaps they "knew a guy". I have a some minor white smoke out my exhaust, but no bad smells of HCs or NO/NO2. So.. is there something about the early Z32 emissions or TT model that means a cat isn't needed? The last owner was into racing, fitted a custom cooling fan amongst a few other subtle mods.. Backbox & Midsection: Mid to front section: Split: Split 2: Split 3: Engine bay with lambda sensor (corroded bit below the red wire)

Cheers mark. 25 years of corrosion had taken away any colouring, but all about that sweet spot. Off now! Thanks for the help all. Should be a doddle from here

About removing the prop from the diff (R230).. Tried to bend the corners (circled in cyan) to try ease it up but still completely solid. Any suggestions, other than removing the prop at the front end? Cheers

Jeff's method would have worked but I then saw the state of the fuel pipe lines too and decided to just go for it. Subframe with diff/shocks etc is almost ready to come off, but the diff is still stuck to the prop shaft. I've jacket the sub/diff back up for now to release stress, letting it settle with some WD40 at the moment. Any advice on where to lever/tap? Also the front wasn't held on purely by the two bolts, there was another support that had to be removed, held to the car by two 14mm bolts. I'll get a pic if anyone wants to see what I mean, but 3 out of those 4 small bolts couldn't be saved. For those who Know what I mean, is it worth drilling them out and replacing or do they offer little support?

Thanks Lexx, found them, then found some UK suppliers. To anyone else wondering, a masterkit by Energy Suspension (part number 7.18105) can be bought from Mastercorners for £170, h-tune for the same, or Mad Motors for extra. Kit will contain: Front Control Arm Bushings - 7.3108 Front Strut Arm Bushings (Radius Rod Bushings) - 7.7105 Front Sway Bar Bushings - 7.5120 Steering Rack Bushings - 7.10104 Rear Sway Bar Bushings - 7.5119 (26mm, includes droplink bushes but not new droplinks) Rear Subframe Bushings - 7.4102 Rear Differential Carrier Bushings - 7.1108 I priced similar parts individually from other suppliers (driftworks, zcentre..) for a total of around £240 excluding delivery. By no means a full kit, but still offers a good saving for those wanting to go full polybush

Hello, Working on a 1990 Z32 TT project car and looking for polybush kits. Saw a full package on ebay for £175 for the Z31 which included droplinks and the anti-roll bar bushes (all of which I need due to cracking). I've seen individual kits at the ZCentre for the Z32 but does anyone know of full kits? Would be nice to have everything ready/spares in stock Cheers

1h into the exhaust and I'm still stuck on one bolt. Just gonna saw the bugger off when the rain stops and go from there, will post any major updates

Yeep thats the bit I saw earlier and thought looked solid. Will have a few back up stands too. Won't be able to do it till the new year anyway. Thanks for the help :)

Seems fairly straight forward, Jacking should be fine actually. The sills are rotten but the actual jacking point seems solid. Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it

When I say wheels on I of course don't mean taking the full frame out. But given the weak jacking points at the skirts I need other strong points. I've seen people use the diff, but can't do that here obviously. Where about did you use redwine300?

Would give me a good excuse to replace all the cracking rubber with polybushes I guess. And the diff oil cooler pipes. The diagram is great Mark thanks. Is this doable with the rear wheels on ramps?

Hey, All my brake pipes are corroded to hell and leaking (non runner project car). I've replaced a lot of brake pipes before no problem, but I'm wondering if anyone has some advice/opinions if they have had it done? I have a pipeline diagram and have a pretty good idea of whats going on. As far as the actual connections at the rear go though, the corroded nuts and awkward access don't look too good. I'm wondering if anyone has actually rerouted their new pipes instead? I.e. drilling holes at either side of the boot for the new pipes to be sized and fitted easily. My main worry is the rear pipes, as they don't have their individual pipes from the ABS actuator. Instead they share one pipe which has a splitter. I wouldn't want to create a braking imbalance from pressure travel distance. Cheers

Thanks, yeah just required some WD40 and leverage. I got caked in corrosion once it set free haha. All off now other than the front end of the pipes/front solenoid, will do when its on ramps at the front. But whilst the back is up... going to do the brake pipes.. every one is rotten, along with the transmission pipes leaking. Guy who I bought it from (not the original owner) tried to get a quick MOT on it a few years ago to sell it and the lazy "mechanic" at the garage tried to fix the brake pipe leak (assuming without a pipeline diagram) by connecting the passenger side calipers together.. and the rear caliper to the brake booster...