cozza

The £3,800 one is mine unfortunately, 3 year project finished but now I'm back on the job market with an upcoming redundancy. Pricing it wasn't easy. As Jeff said, just have to balance the quality. Mine is high mileage and has both tasteful and un-tasteful mods on a UK model and an imperfect body, versus a clean import with lower mileage.

Motor is good. Not found a wiring issue so far, tryna source a new amplifier isn't as easy as I thought haha

Yep mine looks just like that! I'll check out all my alarm wires incase I did something when I had the box off. Cheers for wiring diagram too Andrew. With the blue/white and green wires going to the motor, am I right in saying if I apply a 12V circuit directly to the connector pins (from a spare battery), the motor should start?

Ugh, the wires have been tampered with! Am I right in saying that from the relay/amplifier/black box unit, two wires should go to the window regulator motor itself? Thick green, and thick blue/white? The green on mine is snipped. The relay/black box end connects to a thick yellow/blue which goes into the car. And the thick green end that comes from the motor connects to a thick green/black, which likewise goes into the car. Haven't been able to find where they go. Likewise with the switch loom. The large white/black wire at the switch end is connected to a thick yellow wire that goes into the car. And the other end of the snipped white/black connects to a thick green wire, which again goes into the car. I'm hoping to magically find a relay of some sort these all connect to for an unknown reason. Only thing I can think of is if he's done this for some kind of switch for the immobiliser he fitted. Just gotta find out what the wires are and where they go! If the wires are the problem..

Hi all, The sagas continue.. After sorting out all the corroded relays in the drivers footwell fusebox and not using the car for a few weeks, the drivers window now doesn't open. Passenger opens/closes fine. The window switch works, and I've read the posts about the amplifier/relay black box at the bottom right of the door panel. I have the exact same sound as the vid here. No motors turning or grinding. So I can hear the contacts clicking when I press the up/down switch, and can see them clicking now I've taken the black cover off. I didn't see any broken solder contacts (pic below), but I resoldered and cleaned up all the connections at the pin connector, and most others, however I still have the problem. Could be there something else wrong with the unit besides the solder? Have I messed up something in the drivers footwell fusebox? Could the motor have died with no drive instantly? Or any other electrical connections known to cause problems hahah. Any help appreciated!

Fair point guys, I'll get it replaced now before I need it later in life. Cheers for the advice. It isn't my daily so I can take the screw out now till I get a new one. I fitted a used corrosion free radiator from banzai breakers for a manual TT. I don't remember a bleed screw on my last one.. as I bled it all years back when doing the pump/belt etc.. but I'm probably wrong by what you are saying. Every day is a school day with these beasts!

Unfortunately the screw drive has been rounded. I got it out by pressing hard (molding a new drive..) and turning with a large flat screw driver. There's a small seal there too from what I saw, which was gubbed. So to get around both issues, I just sealed it with the screw back in. Am I right in saying it was just the Japanese spec that had these bleed screws? My previous radiator didn't. Or perhaps later models

Just for an update. Re-bled it all again, definitely no air traps now. When under pressure when it's all hot, there is no vibration/rattling. Just a tiny bit when low pressure. No problems on motorway or town driving though so who knows! The new radiator also actually had a bleed valve on the top, which had a small leak, so that wouldn't have helped. Used RTV to seal the thread up, and all is well now. Cheers for the help

I know the jiggle pin moves about, hoping it's that. The car heats up fine, both the inlet and outlet hoses are hot, temperature gauge good. Hot air in blowers. But that is slightly worrying! Trying to remember the replacement procedure, just for good measure. Coolant drain, radiator/fan out, bottom pipe off enough? Last time I did it I had everything off so it was very easy.

Hi all, I have a rattle, noticeable when moving/squeezing either coolant pipes (see vid). So recently: *Car on ramps at the front so radiator cap is the highest point *Leaking radiator removed *Used radiator fitted, new coolant pipes also fitted *Filled with bluecol 2y stuff, 50//50 mix *Left to sit for a day, topped up, ran till at operating temperature with heaters on full blast and nice and hot *Re-topped up *Few days later out to get it test-ran, came back and still had air bubbling in the system as I could heat it gurgling (or water boiling.. :ohmy: ) in the engine itself (not the rad) *Instantly get it up on ramps again, no overheating at the temp gauge, fan working fine Come today, I've gone to check it over and noticed this rattle coming from the thermostat (I think). This a fail-safe thermostat, that has done less than 100 miles since I fitted it 3 years ago. Have I fried my thermostat from poor bleeding, or do I have a loose washer kicking about my cooling circuit..? OR is it simply the thermostat jiggle pin that I haven't noticed before? The noise can be heard without much pressure, on either coolant pipe. Cheers! 1990 UK auto TT

Better find me some new parts! Will post a wanted ad. Unless anyone here has a working set up for sale?

Noope.. :/

APEXI AVC-R boost controller, not played with the settings yet from the previous owners set up. APEXI cone air filter. Unorthodox racing pulley

Yeah after running for less than a minute it was back to normal, just thought I'd check! Thanks for the replies, so I'd expect about 80C. I'll run it with the conzult/laptop whilst driving and see what that says. It has a custom fan on it too, and have been recommended to return it to the viscous style. But then the custom one can be set to be a bit more sensitive, control switch right by the fan. Don't want this beast to overheat in the first week haha

Hi all, Just got my beast MOT'd, 3 year project at an end, just got a question about the normal operating temperature though. Where about does the needle sit on your dials? (if that is accurate enough). One observation I had, temperature is about midway all the time, but then I turned it off for 2 minutes, started it back up again and the temperature was about 3/4 of the way up, not sure if there's a circulation issue with the sensor sitting with an idle part of coolant or? Any thoughts welcome! Cheers Colin 1990 Z32 UK spec auto TT

Hi all, MOT failed for too much play in the nearside front upper camber arm, I understand there's a tolerance to be had but it can be moved by hand pretty easily unfortunately. I've seen the aftermarket adjustable parts, but really just after a used OEM till I can afford to do the whole kit and kaboodle over winter. Anyone got any for sale with good bushes? I'd be needing it asap to get it in for a retest this week too! Cheers, Colin Model: Z32 1990 G-reg, UK Auto TT

IT'S FIXED! Also I dream of an engine that shiny.. First thing was my confusion between sidelights and low beam/high beams, now known that side lights are the ones at the bottom next to the indicators, then low beams are to the external side of the headlights, and then the main beams on the internal side... Second, the new LED bulb in the RHS headlight was a duff, so I had both sidelights after doing that. Then found the dip-damp control unit wires were very corroded and loose, which when fixed got all lights working bar the RHS main beam (unsure if this is coincidental or not). Then tried to swap the dimmer and RHS relays and the LHS lights no longer worked. Relays tested resistance of about 30 ohm and 60 ohm, swapped back and then NEITHER sides worked! THEN sanded the RHS main beam connector and hey presto it worked, repeated LHS likewise and that worked too. They weren't corroded visually. After playing about with the relays and swapping for another one of that type, it turns out one relay was dodgy also. And boom, all working. Now just need some brighter bulbs. Cheers for the advice all, and turns out the fan thing is unrelated, but I'll get that sorted too.

What does the original fan run off? Mechanically driven by the engine? There's an unorthodox racing crank pulley on it, unsure if this means I can't use the original set up? I'll do some searching After many nights of cutting and reconnecting the millions of worn and corroded connections in the engine bay and drivers footwell (3rd party alarm, immobiliser, turbo timer, various accessory wires..), searching for hours on where wires in the non-standard relays mentioned went, I then checked the dim damp control unit and found everything there equally corroded. The thick white wire which links to the LHS headlight relay wasn't even making contact. As for why the LHS works fine and the RHS doesn't work, we'll see how it goes when I get the rest tidied up and connect the battery back up again..

There are two fans. The one the relay is connected to: And the custom fan, with a 12V supply from the ignition: NEW interesting development. Tidying up the absolute fallout of wiring under the dashboard (3rd party alarm, immobiliser, turbo timer, all un-colour coded and tangled) There is one variable resister knob the driver can reach, with a red wire coming out of it, which actually feeds the cluster pod for the lights. It's the thick red wire connecting to the thin green/brown wire with the blue connector as shown below. The thin green/brown wire continues on after this. There is no other wire fed from the variable resister, but I have many many broken and taped connections around that area of the resister knob I'm trying to sort out. The thin black wire has been cut, and a thick brown wire connected, which connects to an earth. Old thin black wire still visible but not connected. I then followed the uppermost blue thick wire. The thin had been cut, with the old thin one still there but unconnected. This thick blue wire fed into the drivers side wing, into another relay, which was corroded to ****. The light blue wire can be seen. The brown wire coming from the relay feeds back under the dashboard, but does not go anywhere. Could this be the wire that's meant to go to the variable resistor? Which I still don't know what it does. Going to find a diagram for the cluster wiring now..

Ah, logo is very faded on mine. They've been removed anyway. Hoho. That diagram is excellent thanks for that. So it looks like the relay I have is sending the signal to turn on the fan?

The car has a custom cooling fan by the main radiator, and the air con removed. I'm assuming this fan in place was for the A/C radiator. The button on the light switch knob, is that for the front day time running(DTRL)/corner lights by the indicators? It doesn't have any effect for me. But I thiiiink it's possible, with a working relay and connection made, that button will turn on the RHS (drivers) DTRL and the A/C cooling fan? As to why it's linked up to the LHS fuse, and the LHS DTRL works I'm not yet sure

Ah okay I can see what you mean about the fog, and the chassis markings. There is a relay labelled as "fog lamp" where the space is too though. No HIDs, standard bulbs, which i've replaced all of

Hi all, 1990 UK TT here. I'm aware these beasts have their headlight gremlins, but I think this may be a unique case. I'm borderline just rewiring all the lights myself and having manual switches cut into the dash. The headlights have never worked right since I got the car, and I've cleaned connections up by the headlights themselves. So this is what happens when I change the lights settings (might need to click 'download image' after clicking the link to make it appear right): Are the fuses in the engine bay labeled as LH = LH of engine bay, or LH = nearside/passenger side? Also the fog light relay has been removed. The RH headlight fuse looks fine, although I don't understand the wiring splits. The LH side has been re-routed to use a (rusty) 30A fuse in a separate relay which was next to the air filter, instead of the 15A fuse normally. The relay is ALSO connected to the green wire on the normal cooling fan (i have a custom one as well). I'm unsure if this is either an extra power feed to the lights, or a power feed to the fan so it comes on when the lights are turned on. The relay then connects to a ground, and two wires go elsewhere which has been cut (looks like a feed and a return). There is also no feed to the day time running/corner light, so I'm assuming this cut connection is for that? But it's been very clearly snipped, with no terminals present to make the connection Circuit diagram: My question is, do we think these connections should be joined, and if so, will it fulfill the conditions required for the other lights to work on the drivers side? I.e. for the power feed to the drivers side headlights to be true, does it need the daytime running light power feed to also be true? Thanks! Relay: Wire from relay going into the green wire of the fan: Relay with the cut wire I think should go to the daytime running/corner light: Connections coming from the indicator and daytime running light, one going to a plastic box, one unconnected: Fusebox:

Looking closer, it looks like that pipe is infact the injector feed, possibly an injector seal needing replaced? I think I can hear it from another injector also. And the drivers side fuel damper has a vacuum leak which I've fixed. AND I can hear another leak from the rear of the engine. Jeez

Hey all, Refurbing a Z (90' UK auto TT), and when doing a vacuum test I found an air leak right here under the throttle body: I can see a pipe connection under there which I believe links up to the vacuum/fuel system, as when I pressurise the air intake and this leaks, there is a faint smell of fuel. Before I start taking the throttle body off and replacing pipes/adding jubilee clips I thought I'd ask those who actually know what they are doing haha. Anyone experienced this before/know for certain what the pipe is (assuming it is that pipe?) and any advice on fixing it? Thanks!