Paul C

thats just what I thought when i read it Gavo :D :rolleyes: not wanting to get into a "slagging off other car" debate, but the Saxo dont even come close to the above. i see gavo's got a NA zed, watch out for shopping trollies Gavo!!! :D :D :rolleyes: ps i frequently beat McLaren F1's in my TT :D :D

Nope!! :D

yes you do need reflectors for the MOT.

LOL!! I got my car from the Autotrader. its the cleanest one i saw, very well looked after, FSH etc. oh, & have i mentioned its a UK manual? :D

used to happen to me too. the only way i fixed it was format c: in the end :rolleyes: ran windows setup, upgraded to the latest IE version, uninstalled/reinstalled the TCP/IP stack, etc etc etc......... nothing worked. used to figure on wiping my hard drive every 6-12 months anyway :rolleyes: since installing XP pro, its been very stable tho

1. short journeys are bad for any car. just dont be tempted to boot it while cold. not nice for the engine 2. most major mechanical work is best left to someone who knows what the're doing. tho the majority of work can be done DIY, esp with the help of everyone on here. 3. running costs are obviously, as you say, going to be higher than your Saxo. dont think otherwise ;) 4. mine was a UK manual unmodded (apart from 17" alloys :D ) just make sure its a clean one. if you buy a dodgy one thinking you can fix it up for cheap you're asking for trouble IMHO oh, and the "I've even opened an ISA which will have a £1K in it by the time I buy the car (if I do) to cover the poss cost of any big repairs which might come up." bit......................... LMFAO!!!!!!!!!!! £1k???? for any big repairs????????? what like a new oil filler cap????? well not quite but hopefully you get the picture :D

im pretty sure you need at least 17" rims with the GTR brakes. im sure someone can confirm. warren (300z) has done this so perhaps he can give you more info :)

get the whole kit. clutch plate, cover & release bearing. RPS do a nice one (which is what i got from smiffy)

Stu - Jim Wolf (Tech.) are the JWT chips the're talking about oh and YGM ;) see ya tomorrow

so if you copy it & give it away is that ok then??!! ;)

buy them from e-bay, or from an avatar shop, or from a bloke at a boot fair selling avatars, or from a mail order avatar specialist, or on the avatar black market, or from argos, or from the duty free shop in gatwick airport or................................. i'll get me coat :D

thats a bit of an ambiguos statement!!!! what if the impellors come off?? :rolleyes: its a problem iv come across on many models (not saying thats happened here or anything! ;) )

LMAO!!!! no fun then???? :D

ahhh, poss spigot bearing or more likely the primary (input) shaft bearing in the box. it goes away when the pedal is depressed then?

it does sound like the release bearing. does it do it when stationary & depressing the clutch??

is it inflatable?!?!!? :D :D ;)

everyone knows its mikes singing, dancing weetabix that does all the clever stuff :D

like I said - if it cures it you need to replace the sensor. its a good way of confirming that it is the sensor & not a wiring fault or ECU, less likely i know but still a possibility. moving the sensor to a different location is just as risky as leaving the resistor in IMO :rolleyes:

code 34 is the detonation sensor circuit open/short circuit the poor performance is because the car is in safety (standard) boost. there is a "fix" you can do by soldering in a 1megohm (i think. pls check) resistor in the circuit. do a search to find out the exact details. but really you need to replace the sensor if that cures it. HTH

nice one Roy.................................................. only this is the general forum now open to all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

errrrrrm, from what i can gather from Vijay saying the upgraded light is the light below, the top beam pattern is the "before" & the one below is the "after"!!! :D

detonation is caused by the gasses being ignited in the combustion chamber other than by the spark plug, due to increases in temp/pressure causing the air/fuel mix to ignite. this causes a seperate burn to the one ignited by the spark plug, when the 2 flame fronts collide you get the "knocking" or pinking noise. it can be caused by running high boost pressures, incorrect fueling/timing, carbon build up, poor or low quality (octane) fuels.

a little more info might help on this, is it a definate misfire or is it just lack of power? how does it idle? smooth/rough? have you done an ECU diagnostic? (details in online manual if you dont know how to) it could be something as simple as a poor electrical contact. check & clean (with electrical cleaner) all the contacts under the bonnet - PTU, CAS, TPS, coils etc HTH

& the ever-so-slightly insane :D

better looking than the coupe IMO