Paul C

are you measuring that on an aftermarket boost gauge, or the stock "give or take 5psi" gauge in the dash?

1, never, EVER ask if auto or manual is the best!! :D (ps its manual ;) ) 2, check our online buyers guide in the FAQs at the top of the screen 3, check our for sale section for a start good luck :cool:

ps, unless you have a very good multimeter, then i would avoid using an ohmeter where ecu's are involved, as they have been known to be fried!! voltage testing is far safer :cool:

not always. voltage drops & residual voltage can be a very good way of diagnosing electrical faults. a poor earth is basically a resistor, which will share the voltage with the consumer on a circuit. so if you check after the consumer on the earth wire & theres say 2v, then the earth circuit is drawing 2 volts! checking current draw is no good because the current shown will be the currant drawn by the consumer and the earth as an ammeter goes inline measuring all current flow in that circuit. ;)

I think we should put things into perspective here, the zed engine was seriously detuned to get to the japs "agreed" 280 bhp limit, i think 400bhp is more what it would of produced if the limit was not in place. many of the mods at this level (zorst, intake, chip) increase power by making the engine more efficient, & the boost pressure on a stock zed is seriously low for a performance turbo car, 1 bar is really not that excessive IMO. now the only time youre putting more strain on the engine is when your on more boost than stock, & how often is that?? & is the extra 4.5 psi or so really going to make that much difference?? 400bhp (flywheel) really is entry level tuning on a zed, makes a nice improvement over standard, but nothing too extreme!! just my £0.02 worth :cool:

I SAID PUT IT BETWEEN THE -TVE & GROUND WIRE ON ANY CONSUMER, YOU TIT!! :slap: :p :D

get your PCV valves & hoses changed 1st ;)

our cars are too old, they dont conform to ODB2, which is a standard set of fault codes & a standardised connector (similar to a SCART lead)

on mine, the cause was worn hicas link arms NOT the shocks, so diagnose it properly!! check for any wear in the rear suspension - jack the rear up & shake the wheels side to side & top to bottom.

you can test this to see if its actually doing anything or just a placebo effect ;) place an voltmeter from the negative post of the battery to the earth wire of any consumer (light bulb, sensor, ecu etc) and you would expect 0v right? what you may get is a small residual voltage (current used up by a poor earth), up to 0.1v is usually deemed acceptable for most items. test before & after fitting your additional earth wires to see if youve made a difference. then let me know, i cant be arsed :D

you can check the voltage output at the battery with a voltmeter, should be up to around 14v when revved to around 1500 - 2000 rpm, may drop to around 13v under load (lots of consumers on). amp output is most easily checked by an inductive pickup on the output wire from the alternator. usually (tho not always) you will loose everything when it stops charging, so check your voltage at the battery 1st

thought it was 36mm :confused:

nope, fraid not. we dont have OBD2 diagnostics, too old!! good effort tho ;)

pay up then!!! :slap: :tongue:

like Mike says, its probably your alternator! as long as the battery youve got is physically the right size, and the capacity is the same or similar then it will be fine - iv got a merc one on mine ;)

it really depends what sort of damage has been done - its no good guessing, get a proper estimate done! its probably going to need all the suspension arms & hicas link arm replacing, poss hub as well. the parts are quite expensive, but unless youve damaged something major i dont think it would write it off, replacing the parts with second hand bits will obviously be a lot cheaper. get it checked out properly!! ;)

then you need RL traction Control ;) excellent mod for any powerful car

as standard they are quick cars, enough to put a big smile on your face ---> :) get it chipped, boost upgrade, induction, exhaust, uprated clutch & poss lightwieght flywheel & decat & it turns into this ---> :D doesnt cost the earth to get to this stage either :cool:

Mods - could we have a "Zed friendly Insurance Co's" thread & make it sticky?? this gets asked soooooooo often. anyway, ill start ;) got mine from Insurance Factory (online), tho Tesco insurance was quite competitive too. mines a UK, but whan i enquired when i was 1st looking, both would insure imports, Ins Factory dont (didnt) charge any extra for it being an import either. HTH :)

but the running costs of a mk1 baby far exceed the costs of keeping your zed!!! Keep the Zed! :D :D

its possible mike, depends on the severety of the leak - it may be just enough to draw in excess air & lean out on idle causing problems.

could be almost anything - do they have diagnostics? worth checking if theres any fault codes. other than that id check for air leaks (any split vacuum hoses etc) & clean the TB. does it have an idle valve? also worth a clean if it does

as a rule of thumb, most engines are 2 bar min at 2000rpm when hot. it really is no good checking it on the stock gauge tho. :)

iv got to stay at home untill after the new year, tough job but someones gotta do it!!!! ;) :D

fairly simple to do if youre ok with car electrics. there is no existing wiring for front fogs. you will need to fit a switch in the dash, a relay, & run the wiring to the lamps. you will also need to modify the indicator wiring, as on a uk car the sidelight & indicator are in the same unit & share a wiring connector, whereas the jap car share the foglamp & sidelight with a seperate connector for the indicator.