Paul C

TBH, with the new unit i dont think relocating would have any advantage. the old units have fine solid wires that are soldered, these break which cause the problem (due to vibration, heat and or age!). the new units are completely different & do away with these crappy wires!!

yup, deffo 1.0mm. tried 1.2 1st, took them out (still in the top of my toolbox) & fitted the 1.0mm ones

i go against a lot of whats been said!! bought the 1st one i went to see & am extremly happy with it :) running costs - apart from mods & petrol its cost me very little ;) 2+2 UK manual TT series 2 is the one to look out for (& no, im not selling mine!! :D)

just for reference, i get 16psi with 1mm tips, 1.2mm gave me 12psi

look here - it describes how to test & bypass (NOT RECOMMENDED!!) the det sensor. if the det sensor is faulty then obviously it really requires replacing (mind you - as youve got a boost controller youve got no "safety boost" anyway. & i believe some chips do away with the safer ignition timing knock maps too)

i never understand why everyone thinks its so misleading :rolleyes: measure at the wheels, dip the cluch & the recorded bhp loss from the transmission is recorded. add the 2 together - FWHP!! as i said - stus figure of 360bhp was at the wheels (hubs) - so is his transmission losses are 0 then :shock: thats mighty impressive dont you think?!?! :slap:

well i couldnt get an accurate reading (check my dyno sheet out in the dyno section!!) as my tyres seemed to be doing a good nonstick frying pan impersionation on the rollers. saw 350bhp with slip - estimated at around 400. im running 16psi with a JWT chip SMW1 had around 360ish RWHP at thor IIRC & i think he was running around 14psi. i would want to try a chip & run again if i was you. 14psi on a stock ecu is a bit risky IMO & you may see a little improvement with a chip.

just take the hole with you to match it up! :D

LOL!! beat ya :D

theres got to be one in the fuse & relay plate at the front

garages, whether MOT stations or otherwise are much the same as any trade - theres always poor ones out there that give everyone else a bad name :( find a good reputable garage & use it. (GB on MOT's anyone?? :D )

yes, tell her that you'll never neglect her again by leaving her locked away for so long! :D apart from that only the obvious, check all levels, tyre pressures etc. you could crank the engine over without the fuel pump relay in to stop it starting to build oil pressure up 1st if you so wish

suprisingly - no! :hyper:

there is an adjustement that can be made at the clutch pedal, although this may only be a short term fix. do a search as i posted a link only the other day :)

fekking hell. with a bigger rad the car wont ever come out of warm up phase!! :eek:

probably because its idling higher

LOL!! strongbow, lager & smirnoff ice last night (not all in one glass tho) :D

i would have thought a 60bhp @f/w increase with a chip & boost increase is quite conservative TBH. with supporting mods on a good engine you should be seeing around 400bhp (flywheel) as confirmed by the likes of my dyno run & SMW1's.

dont worry stu - i feel fine!! ;)

whoo hoo!! weve had the best ever month last month & works taking us out for a chinese & lots of beer :duffer: :duffer: :duffer: just been given £200 to get us started when we meet in the pub :dance: bets taken now on my hangover level tomorrow at work :D

are they able to remap ecu's yet on our cars??

Rather than coming off the temp sensor, you need a dedicated thermo switch, that cuts in at, say 98deg (or whatever you want) then get a standard 4 pin relay. on the primary side of the relay give it a 12v feed & a switched earth via the temp switch. output side of the relay will then have a 12v supply in & out to the fan with a permenant earth. job done :)

nice one stu :)

ok, looking at the pic it looks like a purge tank :)

i was thinking this too. not sure quite about on a zed, but most modern cars include the purge valve in the closed loop system. i take it the cars not going to run weak without it?? also what do you do about tank venting?? just vent to atmosphere?? :confused: are there actually any benefits of removing it then?