g113emo

cheers legrath, also its not usually the bearing but the rubber in bearing carrier that cracks when it gets brittle over time, however its all one part to buy and rather expensive for a bearing and a bit of rubber!!!

more advice!!! if its an import DO NOT USE 95ron fuel as it will detonate and damage engine over time prob blow head gasket. in japan cars are designed to run on 98ron to 102ron octane fuel whilst in uk we run crap ie 95ron to 98ron(if you can find it) use superunleaded ie 97ron/98ron prefereable 98ron, the only 98ron fuel in uk is shell optimax as far as i know. never compromise with 95ron.

also whilst in ecu test mode if you then start the engine the ecu will start flashing, rev at costant 2500 rpm, the led should flash every other second, this is the reading for exhaust emission for the left hand lambda sensor located in manifold, whilst engine still running turn screw fully clock wise and back, this switches to right lambda sensor, same test for this side, if it does not flash every other secod at 2500rpm there is a fueling fault(rich or lean) or dodgy lambda sensor(£160).

also check for a rattle which apparently sounds like "a baby's rattle" which can be heard at 1500rpm when stationary, this is the bottom end gone, ie crank, crank bearings various parts and is a major job prob cheaper to replace the engine, walk away from this also the ecu as a fault code reading system, you can do this by removing the wood panel under carpet passenger side, turn ignition on but do not start engine, there is a small screw on side of ecu and a led, turn the screw fully clockwise then slowly bacvk until the led starts flashing it will flash slowly for tens and quickly for units i.e two slow and three quick is 23 it will flash a code in this format followed by how long ago in engine starts it was in the same format and then the next code etc.. the ecu stores info for the last 50 times you started the engine, however you can reset it by disconnecting the battery for 24 hours so do test after the test drive in case the owner as deleted the codes to hide a fault. however the ecu flashed rather quick and its bloody hard keeping up so i recommend finding the local nissan dealer and booking in a consult test £40 where these codes can be read with a computer, zedworld does consult for free if you are near birmingham(tamworth). if you obtain fault codes nissan can tell you what they are over phone or you can get lists of them online, 55 is the code for all clear (no faults) most faults will be a corroded connector or dodgy sensor and relativly easy to fix, in fact you may be able to get a bargain if the owner is selling due to a engine fault if you know what your looking for (not recommended unless you know what you are looking for!!!!!)

the headgasket!!!!!!! opps been there done that and it was the heater matrix not the headgasket £2600 bill for garage who imnsisted on stripping engine then telling me it was the heater!! learn from my mistake go to a specialist ie zedworld.co.uk they only charge £25 an hour and its alot less hours cause lets face it they do them all the while and know what they are doing. i have a na so dont need to worry bout turbos, but if you buying a twin turbo id allow myself a £1000 extra budget to look at it as if they need doin as they prob will, black smoke from exhaust is a sign of turbos going. as most 300zx are imports history of turbo change is not usually available so assume they will need doin as will replacing all the connectors to sensors in engine bay.

£4k is good enough, but be carefull cause a with it been a unknown quantity to many people alot of garages sell tacky standard cars for £6-7k for a 1990 for example otter trade centre in peterborough have a 1992 twin turbo in 4 different reds! with a key scratch from front to black finished with standard wheels and body for £6k however i bought a 1990 with full wide arch kit in good nick for £4k. what im saying its not what you pay, its what you buy, shop around cause they range from £3k to £8k for a 1990 and this doesnt reflect condition, its just what the sellers thing they can screw out of people. things to look for: allow £100- 150 to replace all the connectors in engine bay cause its very likely these will be corroded, dont be conned by nissan into a £800 wiring loom, the connectors come from durite for £2 for 2 pin ie injectors, temp sensor. £5 for 3 pin ie throttle position sensor and £6 for 4 pin ie crank angle sensor or air flow meter. the 3 pin connectors found on the coil packs are available as sets of 3 from courtessy nissan (website) in usa if car runs rich when warm this is most likely the engine coolant sensor at front of engine(one with yellow connector) this is £25 and connector as mentioned above. missfire at a certain rev range is most likely throttle position sensor more likely its connector located on end of one throttle body, connector as mentioned above. gearbox - if its a manual you may get layshaft noise when backing off throttle at say 40mph normally in gears to back of box ie 2nd 4th reverse, not a worry just annoying noise and second hand gearboxes can be had for £250 plus £200 fitting if it does conk. if its auto the kickdown may not function, this can be the throttle pos sensor not detecting full open throttle, prob bad connector. overheating - the heater matrix (heater radiator) behind dashboard is commmon to go on imports as the japs dont use much antifreeze!! check for damp on carpet in footwells powerseteering cuts out - dodgy solenoid located bottom steering rack drivers side behind wheel, bad connector - direct wiring repair or dodgy solenoid these are £800 from nissan, recommend £20 second hand from breakers. can also be speed sensor in gearbox if speedo cuts in and out too, or more likely one of the connectors to this. prop bearing - centre bearing on propshaft, a clickig/judder from centre console when stepping on the gas, these are £180 from nissan plus £100 to fit(not nisan) however £50 from coutessy nissan but allow £50 delivery and £20 import tax etc.. still slightly cheaper. clock resets to 1.00 when driving - dont worry there is 99% chance that there is not a earth fault with car just the clocks play up on 300zx!!! rattle/blow sound at back off engine near to top - this is most likely the nut to the pipe from the manifold to the egr (exhaust gas recirculation ) valve located at the back of the engine come loose, obviously carbon monoxide enters the car!!! the nut is a pain in arse as it can just about be accessed from underneath but torquing up is impossible without removing the gearbox or lifting the engine forward. check also the viscous clutch on the aircon compressor, this is located on front of engine on passenger side, it has its own belt, the disc should not stick out of front, these can break and come out and catch the fan, aircon compressors are £120 + fitting from zedworld.co.uk or £1400 from nissan new! if its electric it probably wont work on a 300zx lol but dont let me put you off!!! i dont regret it. also never take your car to nissan, they like to rip you off/bullshit you etc. i recommend zedworld for knowledge and if you can get second hand part its better than a overprised new one, this may of been a £40k sports car in 1990 but nissan still thinks that and charges for this.