g113emo

it may be the 155mph limitter, the zed comes with 16 inch alloys as standard, if you fit different size wheels lets face it everyone does the speedo speed is different to the actual speed, the faster you go the more out it will be, you could well be goin 155 but speedo reading 140

also is the car ok when cold but prob when warm, can be coolant sensor for ecu, fron of engine, orroded connector, will cause the ecu to think car is cold all the time, ok until its warm and choke stays on causing car to run rich, coke up plugs and detonate which will cause limp home mode ie not rev above 2k revs. check the plugs to see if they are coked up, if so car wll be running rich due to sensor fault.

can be tps (throttle position sensor) located on end of throttle bodies, tells ecuhow far open the throttle is, a dodgy signal ie corroded connector will result in wrong timing advance at certain revs in your case 1500 to wherver it may be, i had same prob between 4500 to 5500 revs, was told it would be cas (crank ngle sensor) worked out it was tps myself and changed connector. if contacts look green in the connector its quite likely

shaddow auto styling 01945701333

i bought my car with wide arch kit, however i have previous owners bill, the kit is £415 + vat from zcentre for arches/skirts, £400+vat rear bumper £290+vat front bumper the reciept was just for fitting and spraying kit not whole car and was £450 from shaddow auto styling in thorny toll near peterborough, i am having whole car done soon by them for £1500 so id say £3500 approx

engine connectors from durite 01255 555200 ask for catalogue 2 pin ie temp sensor, injectors £2 3 pin ie tps £4 4 pin ie cas/afm £6 wiring loom £600-800 and 3 months from japan your choice but know which i did lol

mine does the same!!!!!!!! damp in connector for speed signal for power steering solenoid under stearing rack, connector to speed sender on gearbox. ok on a warm dry day lol

heater matrix £149+vat from nissan, its a cuut to do though

you can get replacements for these from durite ( i sourced them when i had probs) cragmay 01775 711141 is a durite dealer, durite = 01255555200 ask for the catalogue, 2 pin connector temp sensor is £2 plus vat, 3 pin ie tps £4 4 pin ie cas or afm £6, you will need to shave the locator grooves off though. its better long run to replace them all as the old ones will be brittle and corroded. also the 3 pin connectors for coil packs are $50 for 3 from coutessy nissan usa.

i thought i had an exhaust blow near down pipes turns out it was nut come off the pipe which goes to the egr valve (located at back of engine) from the maifold (battery side rhd) check out immediatly or you will get carbon monoxide poisoning, if you feel nausious and tired its probably this!!

heater matrix is £149+vat new from nissan, 14 day delivery from jap been there done that unfortunatly

just to add, i had this prob re-occuring! one thing to check is fog light switches fitted for sva, they fit really cheap nasty switches which keep blowing the lights fuse!!!

have been told to remove valve completly but this will make car run 5% richer, its easy to remove just stick a bolt in the manifold and take the connector off the solenoid for the valve. however i want to keep it as was intended cause dont wanna mess bout with fueling. will try some thread lock as you say, if can get to it lol, if i had gearbox removed should be able to get to it properly?

they are on http://www.zcentre.co.uk http://www.zcentre.co.uk/interior/trim_seals.htm £15 each

im in the middle of an insurance claim at mo, my car was hit by a van whilst parked, i am claiming off the third partys insurers, i valued my car at 6k and paid extra for that, the other partys insurers were talking about writing my car off because it will cost 2k to fix and they value 300zx at bout 3k and then my car would be worth 2k or so in its current state. all what was done was the bumper (wings west) is totalled and wing dented, plus arch trim etc. however lookilly for me the inspecter who took 4 weeks to come out (do not get hit by a CIS driver lol) had no idea what the car was or was worth so has agreed for repair. he even tried to tell me that i had done 670000 miles !!! because i have a trip metre apparently i shouldnt have a tenth of a mile digit! moral of the story, insurance companies know fack all

the nut on the pipe that goes from the manifold to the egr valve nicely hidden round back of engine as come loose(egr end of pipe, round back of engine, no access etc) obviously its blowing running crap and emitting carbon monoxide into car! ive had it done up from underneath twice but keeps coming loose, mainly cause you cant torque it up properly because of access. anyone had same prob, whats least labour intensive way to get access to it to do the job properly and would it be a good idea to weld the little ******* on lol?

you say temp gauge is bellow centre? this could be low on water and slightly overheating cause if there aint enough water goin through the temp sensor cant get an accurate reading. i should check your water and oil, if oil looks like mayonaise its head gasket gone, if oil looks ok, its a water leak elsewhere, the heater matrix is common on 300zx, check for damp in footwells. as it happens on idle it could be the electric fan as when your movin the engine is cooled by airflow but stationary the fan will kick in when it gets warm assuming its working

sounds more like a master cylinder prob as it is a hydrolick clutch. also could be a sticky release bearing, obviously when you change a clutch you do the release bearing, they only cost bout £15 but they are sometimes a arse, perhaps your garage couldnt be bothered and left the original in.

also run only high octane fuel if its import ie not 95ron, use 97+ (superunleaded preferable shell optimax at 98ron)

i had similar prob, it was connector to the temp sensor for ecu located front of engine with 2 pin yellow conector, it gets corroded hives wrong temp signal to ecu, when car warms up the ecu still thinks car is cold and runs on choke ie rich, then the plugs get coked up and it missfires and detonates. the knock sensor will prob detect this and limit the power to safety mode and also if the temp sensor fault is detected it will run limp home mode ie limit to 2500 revs. code 13 is temp sensor fault, check all connectors, you can buy connectors from durite (01255555200) or cragmay durite dealer (01775711141) you will need to get a catalogue though cause they wont understand 300zx connector!! theye are bout £2 plus vat. the sensor worth replacing also is £25 from nissan

a NA comes out factory with 222bhp and a TT with 276bhp if you add induction kit/de cat /exhaust its prob 20bhp? zed world do a 30bhp ecu for NA (70bhp TT) for £200 combine two the NA is getting 272bhp however a TT maunal 0-60 is 5.5 TT Auto is 7 NA maunal is 7 so a NA manual will keep with a TT Auto anyway but a 276bhp NA manual is gonna be quicker and better than a stock TT a) no lag b) better acceleration cause of higher gear rations c) replacing turbos is expensive obviously getting much more than 276bhp from a NA is not likely which is the argument TT owners come up with. look at it this way though a NA 300zx is quicker than most cars you see on the road and one with the power of a stock TT is bloody fast its only people with a death wish or who wanna race at santapod who need 500bhp!!!

also as anyone had problems join 300.co.uk with paypal, i get a not logged in error from paypal because the 300zx.co.uk remains in the browser bar because the domain name is "masked" who do i contact to join?

as anyone else had problem with the nut coming loose on egr valvle (pipe to manifold) ? ive had it done up twice but it keeps coming off!!! prob gonna get it welded on!

it would be nice to get some 102ron and experience car at its full potential!!

cheers also for the fuel advice leegrath!!! however im lincs and my local garage is tesco/esso and they aint caught on yet!!!