g113emo

my friends girlfriend recieved a phone call from paypal, they asked to speak to him about a recent transaction, when she said he wasn't there they said they wanted to discuss it with her and needed his password!

also visit torque power

all jap car enthusiasts and owners welcome, its just a good domain name and the domain was available http://www.japimportclub.co.uk

the more the merrier

joined your club, come join mine lol

new look forum up and running, please come and have a look/join in etc.. http://www.japimportclub.co.uk

my pas play sup, but sometimes speedo plays up with it and sometimes it doesn't, i have removed speedo converter but no change, the board on the clcks was cut just before the speed input to dial, i have connected the inupt and output wires which were in the converter together to loop round this, however it still plays up, could this be the clocks ?

been having probs with power steering (previous post) have now removed speedo converter and put back to kmh, the speedo was tripping on and off and also the power steering, sometimes together, sometimes independant, i come to conclusion that it was conversion box, however this is now removed (the printed board was cut out before speed signal got to speedo, looped through box and back to speedo, i disconnected both live and earth from speedo converter and connected the 2 signal wires together thus connecting the speedo to the printed board before the signal was cut out. the speedo when running now runs in kmh, however power steering still cuts out, sometimes the speedo is fully working and sometimes it isn't working when this happens. the speedo is hesitant before the needle starts to move and sometimes jurky. could this be the dials where damaged when the board was cut to fit the converter or could it be the speed sender in the box, allthough the speedo still works sometimes when the power steering is off! I have had a look under the trim where the gear lever and handbrake are, does the speed signal wire pass through here because there is some "clever" wiring but it does look like its to do with the mirror controls, also there is a unconnected plug just under gear lever and i have a cruise control plug on side of dials but no cruise control, could this of been a auto to manual conversion?

don't think it's belt as its intermittantly on and off regularly, if it was belt slipping would play up on full lock or perminantly if real bad. the speedo occasionally goes off but power steering plays up everytime i drive it, however today I had no speedo for 10 miles, and power steering was on and off throughout, however when i pulled to a stand still and away again power steering came on perfectly and guess what? the needle started moving too, have come to conclusion that it is related to speed, more likely the conversion box rather than the sender as sometimes its speedo, sometimes p steering anmd sometimes both! contemplating sticking some uk clocks in to replace the converter box, however its an na so not sure if turbo clocks will work? on the bright side though - my screen wash works lol

my power steering keeps tripping in and out too - however the speedo doesn't seem to be affected, I have had the soleniod hard-wired by zedworld to eliminate dodgy connection. also contact cleaner sprayed in connections to speed sender, though connection looks good. I thought it could be speed related, but sometimes you can sit at idle and the seering suddenly goes hard, I wondered wether it could be the solenoid but re-starting the car many times has no affect so I'm puzzled? it was suggested that it coulds be pump related as there is apparently a valvle inside the pump that could get clocked?

my power steering keeps tripping in and out too - however the speedo doesn't seem to be affected, I have had the soleniod hard-wired by zedworld to eliminate dodgy connection. also contact cleaner sprayed in connections to speed sender, though connection looks good. I thought it could be speed related, but sometimes you can sit at idle and the seering suddenly goes hard, I wondered wether it could be the solenoid but re-starting the car many times has no affect so I'm puzzled? it was suggested that it coulds be pump related as there is apparently a valvle inside the pump that could get clocked?

japs don't grit roads with salt in winter like uk, however japs don't know what antifreeze is either!

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Where did you get your rear bumper from?

I am thinking of changing the rear bumper which came with my wide arched 300zx, there only seems to be the one rear bumper that fits straight onto the wide arch kit available from zcentre, does anyone know of any others as i have this one and find it a bit boring? I am considering the carcept rear bumper, has anyone every had one fitted to a wide arch kit and how much modification is involved?

the standard nissan one is £149 believe it or not and ships in a week!!!

cheers, they said they didnt pressure test they did a "leak test" instead, whats the difference? have spoke to ztech regarding price of rebuild, prob best to fit second hand lump though as never know what find when take it apart, but then dont know what you getting with second hand engines.

it should only need doin once, id imagine its an import, japs dont know what antifreeze is thats why the once on imports are all corroded

if you have a dump valve not set up prop this can happen

hi, im writing bout my brothers tt, it recently had a oil leak, well spirted oil out around battery / dipstick area but could tell where exactly it had come from, the oil pressure also dropped. the car as not been driven since, before this happened there was some popping from exhaust when coming off revs at bout 4500rpm. the car as had a aftermarket manual boost controller fitted by previous owner but no ecu chip which would most likely cause too much air at high revs and not enough fuel? causing the popping. it was pointed out that the oil is likely to have come from dipstick under pressure quite likely related to faulty pcv valves, also recommended to check was oil leaks on cam seals at rear of cam belt cover which was present. this apparently points to pcv valves. his car as been to a specialist in our part of the world, we would rather it go to one of the better places but time and distance and finances did not allow. They have come back and said that on cylinder 6 there is 100% leakage meaning cracked piston and 45% on another and 5% on the rest. however i also have a 300zx and the car as always seemed very quick to me, and no power loss as been noticed, if a 3rd of the cylinders were not working should we have not noticed major power loss and missiring??? also they say it is a 3k rebuild to put new pistons in, surely the sump and crank can be dropped and it done from bellow??? are they ripping us off????

http://www.japimportclub.co.uk

Just started a new forum for all owners of jap import cars, come and sign up for free, all welcome - http://www.japimportclub.co.uk

Just started a new jap imports forum for all types of jap import, everyone welcome http://www.japimportclub.co.uk

They should do a TV show "I'm a pedophile get me out of here" with him a wacko and let the public vote on who gets shot

can be the ecu temp sensor as this tells the car when its warm, but if not working car will stay on choke even when at temp, there is a seperate temp sensor for the dials so can confuse you. its ecu code 13, also blow around egr valve