Funkysi

Use string to cut through the bonding.

Then why not keep even profiles?

Exactly. Like trying to turn a Ferrari 348 into a Fiat Coupe. lol

...and you think a Vectra's too big? :confused:

I'd rather ram green chillis up my anus until they ate away the flesh of my colon.

I didn't think it made a difference for the front wheels as it's the rears or the gearbox that the speedo takes a signal from?

Just have a good look round it. If you have a good rummage around underneath and it all looks clean, providing you keep it up together and waxoil it, it should be fine. Mine looks like a car that's only a few years old underneath. Everything comes apart nice and easily. No, rust, flaking underseal. All my brake pipes look new. I don't drive mine in the wet or in winter, so I can't imagine it'll look any different in 5 years time. If you pull out as much trim from the inside as possible and look down inside the inner flitches, arches and hatch area and there's no sign of rust, as well as a good underside, you should be fine. I've had all my interior out when I did the re-trim and had a good rummage round and didn't find even a hint of any corrosion, nor did I when I took many of the bodypanels off a few years ago when the car was repainted.

Just out of interest why did you go for a 40 profile and how wide are you front wheels?

OEM Version R Kaminari Stillen Could possibly be Impul skirts, which are similar to the Stillen.

....it also depends on what suspension setup your car is running. Whilst stock suspension will be more forgiving, if I was on coilovers and lowering more than I am now, I may find rubbing issues.

Only OEM fitted skirts were those fitted to the Version R 98+ Twin Turbo models. You may have those in mind? Either that or I'm guessing you are thinking of the Stillen or Kaminiari skirts which are the only ones that give a neat factory type of look to them. Why don't you just fit the smoked rear markers and don't wire them up? They are still reflective. In fact, stock ones are identical, one just comes with a bulb holder glued/clipped to the inside of it and one doesn't.

Before @ +45, 245 would not have rubbed....see the horrible amount of ugly wheel gap. LOADS of room to fit very wide tyres. But, I hate wheel gap. So, that had to be the first thing to go! Now with +25 offset and camber correction. It has a higher likelihood of rubbing, but still some scope for a slightly wider tyre. If one was to go up a width AND a profile, then you have a higher chance of rubbing than you are with just a marginally wider tyre.

Depends what offset!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Offset will also have a big part in whether your tyres will rub. I'd rather fit a 285 to the rear of mine as I prefer the flat tyre wall look over the stretched look. Gives it a more aggressive and purposeful look. Unfortunately, I think my rears might be to positive on the offset to except a 285 tyre, so will stick with the 265 for the time being. My fronts could easily accept a 245. They are currently a 235, on an 8.5" wheel with a +25 offset. Almost on the limit there without having to roll the arches, but still some space to play with.

I dislike caravans generally, IMHO, they encourage traffic conjestion and accidents. If I had to buy one though, it would be an Airstream! :cool: These are uber cool,... but as with most caravans, just not suitable for the narrow conjested roads of the UK,

It sounded good up to that point! :rofl:

You said what easier?

There are so many Z32s without rust, why bother even looking at ones with rust.

It's not that nice. The steering wheel is actually made by Nardi. Quite a prestigious name. I like Nardi steering wheels and I'd have that fitted to mine. Whilst being standard fit on some models, it was actually available to purchased direct from a Nardi distributor. Much much nicer than most of the trashy wheels you see available today. Subaru had a deal for about 5 years that Nardi supplied their wheels, I think to JDM versions only, I could be wrong. Momo make their steering wheels now AFAIK.

With that kind of money, as much as I'd buy some rare exotica, I'd love to make a stealth Z32 rocket! Mine would be pretty simple styling for me. Completely stripped 2+2 bodyshell, bead blasted, galvanised and re-sealed. Painted bayside blue. Blue tint screens from UK/Sapphire blue models, genuine Z32 99 spec rear spoiler, 99 rear lights converted to wave soldered micro-LED (not the same as you've seen already!), 99 headlights, Kaminari side skirts, Escort racing front bumper.....get one specially made in Urethene, smoothed rear bumper. B&B twin slash-cut exhaust. 19" BBS LM, 10" wide rear with 9" wide front. With a 35 and a 25 offset respectively. Mild arch rolling. Tein EDFC coilovers. AP 6 piston front calipers and twin piston rears. Powertrix adjustable suspension components, single peice prop, modified GTR 6 speed geadbox with a good paddle clutch. Forged bottom end, mental turbos, big valve heads, Mike Smith Manifolds. etc etc, then all the toys, neatly concealed, like a blitz boost controller, race logic traction control. Full interior retrim, with charcoal bolsters, blue alcantara centres, under dash/door cards etc. Carputer, custom boot build (allowing space for targas!). Dynamatted throughout.

Oh no, not a caravan!

I was talking in reference to the stock size of the rear plate which is big. A plate can be HUGE but as long as it's got the correct font and spacing, it's legal. Same goes for Jags and Rover 75s with oversized plate size. Font and spacing is legal. NOW, if you go smaller, then see my responses in the FAQs about numberplate sizing.

I know my front isn't legal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol

Import sized plate on the front is legal providing the font and spacing is correct!

25mm isn't a lot. I fitted the same to the front of my car to get the wheels kicked right out into the arch. It's quite a common thing for those that want the stance to look good and you want more than just hubcentric spacers. He wants the bold-to-hub versions of that. Extended wheel studs is a no-no. Get Eibach spacers for the Z33. Same PCD and centre-bore, so you should be fine. It's what I run on mine. These are normal hubcentric spacers which you really don't want! These are bolt-on hubcentric spacers which are what you want... You bolt the spacer to the hub and the wheel to the spacer rather than running an extended stud through all 3!