Funkysi

I am considering designing something for the rear lights in my Z. I am wanting to convert them to LED. All of the LED conversions I've seen just don't look that special on the Z32, whilst they look better than stock, when illuminated, the LEDs are very defined and I've never seen anyone make them illuminate the complete area the bulbs did. The nice radius of the edges is lost and I want a more even glow. I am wondering if anyone here would know whether a contoured PCB with wave soldered micro/nano LEDs would work effectively? You'll not only get rid of the dots that large standard size LEDs emit but also, being more compact, you'd also be able to match the radius of the edges. I don't know much about micro LED technology, so any input would be great. I am concerned about being able to create a 2 stage system like the rear lights/brake light. Not sure on the boundaries on micro-LEDs and wiring. In effect, I want to create 2 thin PCBs with wave soldered LEDs that can simply be placed behind the defusers in the rear lights. Not sure how do-able this would be.

Thanks guys. Mega money then! LOL. I haven't got a price for one yet, but I guess they are £500+.

The market is saturated with them. Always been the case at 'end of model life' reps cars. The last model Mondeo was one of the longest production models with the least update too. You can pick up similar aged Vectras and 407s for similar prices. You'll be just as suprised wheb you see how cheap Jaguar X-Types are now.

Is it bigger Tony? Their last place was pretty substantial!

Don't buy one. I had a 55-plate Mondeo TDCi for a while. Hated it. I know they are no sports car, but they have to be one of the most un-rewarding and boring cars I've ever driven. They don't do anything particularly bad, but I think they are hugely over-rated. Horrible clutch on the Ford diesels too.

If you still keep the cats on, that will retain a lot of back pressure...which is why, unless you've replaced the turbos recently, I'd not advise you remove them. Some people have no problems, but a large proportion see oil weep past the seals due to the decreased back pressure.

It's 'Ghandi'. ;) hehe

:wack:

I can't come on demand! :rofl: I have an early start tomorrow unfortunately.

Oh well. Should have popped up tonight!

After a Deli Belly I hope! :rofl:

Vin, sounds like you were in Mumbai! :rofl: Something similar happened to me when I was in India. Went into a shop to have a look at some rather ornate chess sets and the guy tried to sell me everything under the sun. As soon as I told him I didn't want to buy a friggin' carpet, he tried selling me hash! Mondo Bizarro it was!

Joel makes sense....NEVER! Dude, are you working late tomorrow or Wednesday? I'm down in Kunt again, Chatham to be precise!

The buttons for the front fogs and rears are in the same place. If you have a UK model, then it powers the fog lights in the rear bumper. If you have a JDM model, then it operates the front fogs. The rest has already been explained. :)

Here are a few more photos of it. The track photos are at Hallet Raceway in Oklahoma. I have some video of it sliding round one of the apexs and also of us experiencing its amazing launch control! We all went there on day 2 of MWZF. I have hundreds more photos of the big show (which the authorities allowed us the use of an entire bridge for!). Lots of 240s, 260s, Z32s, etc etc I'll upload the rest when I have some time.

Here you go. Similar to this. I'd go slightly darker. I think what you see here are stock indicators, pulled apart with the insides painted black, along with the fogs.

Thanks mate. :)

I've had a look at the Genesis amplifiers on their site. They list the Profile Four as being 4 x 50w. Now my headunit is already 4 x 50w? So, no real difference? I know I need to take into account RMS values of the speakers etc...which I know nothing about. So if anyone can explain in layman's terms what I need, I'd be grateful.

Wouldn't have it going round curves. Would trim it off at the edges of the lense. I also thought about tinting the inside reflector. Not sure it would get the right grade of tint. I did have a photo somewhere of a chap from the 3ZC forum who'd done it that way, but I can't find it anymore. Looked pretty good from memory.

Just a bit of proof. :)

I think I'd get window tinting film for the lenses if I was doing the exterior. Not entirely sure what other options there are other than awful tint spray which I'd sooner launch into the Bridgwater Canal.

I've just bought new fog light lenses (which you can just about make out) so a little reluctant to tint them yet, as, if I was going to re-do the moustache, I'd get the smoked UK turn signal blanks and fog light lenses or reflectors tinted to match.

That's what I run. I'm almost at the limits of offset for a Z with no arch rolling/bodymods. I'm running +25mm at the front and +35 at the rear. Wheels fill the arches nicely. Get that sorted and you're halfway through to getting a good stance, which, IMHO, makes/breaks the look of a Z. I actually fitted bolt-on hubcentric spacers on the front of mine to get the wheels sitting just right. I could get away with a +20 offset, but plumped for a +25 offset (20mm spacers as it was originally +45 at the front). So, anything less than that with what you've got should be good to go. Here's how mine sits on the offsets I gave you....

...also when looking for wheels, make sure the centre bores and PCD are compatible. The Centre bore is self explanitory and should be 66mm. The PCD (pitch circle diameter) is the bolt spacing. Z32s are 5 x 114.3, Z33s have the same.

The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types. Zero Offset The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel. Positive The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars. Negative The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset. If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly.