Steve jones

I would, personally. There's no back-pedalling then when the repair bills start mounting....I'm a biker too of some 30 years. If he's been knocked off, it's a fair guess that his protective clothing has 'protected' him and also probably been damaged. As you will know, they're not cheap either...

Sounds like it was the car drivers fault m8, in which case it would go thro his insurance and not ur lads. I would be inclined to pursue it via insurance tho tbh, that way he can't change his mind half way thro. Billy's insurance company will do all the chasing and it would be classed as a 'non fault' claim....he prob has legal assistance too?

Sorted another job off my list on my new zed: replaced rear coilovers that were already knackered when I bought it. Took about 2 hours including a lick of red hammerite on both rear callipers. Took it for a spin and at last I have a quality sports motor that can be thrown about a bit as opposed to a space-hopper on speed that it was previously! Different car again. Swapped the MAF few weeks ago and cured a cutting out issue at about 4,000 rpm.....slowly getting there. Did notice a hole in o/s exhaust just before backbox while rear wheels were off though. Looks like an excuse to get some beefy back boxes.....

Ah brilliant, cheers guys. There's my nights reading right there,! (sighs at self remembering Saturday Nights of old.....)

Is there a tips & tricks section that I've not seen on here yet? Workshops etc. , that sort of thing. For example, I concocted something up the other week that I'm sure would be useful to other Zedders....during an issue with my zed that transpired to be a faulty MAF, I discovered that the mounting plate for my k&n filter was cracked at the base where the bolts go through. Only 2 of the bolts were holding it on cos the plastic had fractured. Priced up a replacement mounting plate on eBay and was all set to depart with a few quid when I came up with an idea.......went outside, cut the air filter end off my old MAF, sanded it down to get rid of any loose plastic & wrapped a couple of runs of black electrical tape round the newly chopped end. Jubilee clipped the k&n on it, hey presto, works a treat......I know the MAF issue is a common one with Zeds so I'm sure there are shitloads of old ones kicking about.... Don't know if this idea has been invented/covered before and hope somebody else finds it useful if it hasn't.....

Cheers, I reckon the needle nose pliers might still work then. I know they're about 10mph out, so if I do as described previously ( turn needle to 30mph ) but instead of twisting back, pull needle off the spline and (keeping main shaft in same position with pliers) then replace the needle in the 20mph position.....

My thoughts on 'tweaking' the needle was to remove/disconnect speedo, move the needle to 30mph (for example) grab the needle spline tightly with needle-nose pliers, twist back plastic speedo needle to 20mph.....is this likely to work or will the plastic speedo needle not lend itself to moving on its spline?

Just had a thought about this issue; if I tweak the needle back 10mph, the clocks will prob work correctly. If I then fit a speedo-converter/de-limiter which will fix the odometer and 112mph issue, what will happen to the speedo calibration? Will what was once km/h now be referenced for mph? If so would I then need a new dial overlay as the km/h on mine are the smaller numbers underneath the big mph digits, so would prob be confusing (so would be better to do everything while clocks are out?)

Thanks Ian, might give that a try then as an interim fix. Wasn't aware of it being limited to 112mph tbh, but it has a very bouncy back end that I'm looking to fix at the weekend with a pair of coilovers off a scrapper I've sourced. That has put paid to any top end thrashing so far.....plus I'm not near any public roads, for the benefit of the tape!

Ta buddy

Ok, just had a thought, if the dial face has been replaced, that explains the kms odometer issue.....they've just had the mph speedo face stuck over and are prob still the original JDM unit......therefore will prob not have the converter unit if that's the case....

Cheers. I thought about trying to move the needle, but it rests at zero when ignition is off, so not sure if that could physically be done.....might hang out for some UK clocks then, but they're fetching £90+ on fleabay

Hi guys, got another question for anybody who can help....been trying to find a fix to a minor fault I've got with my speedo (1992 JDM 2+2 TT). When I power on the ignition (but not firing it up) the speedo rises to just under 10mph. It then seems to read this distance higher at all speeds as I am driving....downloaded GPS speedo app for my iPhone and checked with TomTom. Does anybody know what might cause the needle to rise like this before I even start moving/fire it up? I'm ruling out the speed sensor (maybe wrongly) on the grounds that the cogs aren't even turning when this happens. The clocks are obvs not JDM because they show mph to about 110 with kmh inlaid also (so not stick on dails). Is there a way to calibrate the speedo down by 10mph ? The other odd thing is that although the speedo is a MPH unit the odometer is clocking up in kms still and not miles. I was thinking of just getting a set of second hand JDM clocks (they seem loads cheaper than uk ones) and fitting one of those add-on converter units....

Cheers fellas, was guessing as much. Like u say, it's not a massive inconvenience. Hopefully I'll eventually tweak the alarm for the doors and just use the red key as a 'grafter'

Hi guys, had my 1992 Z32 JDM 2+2 TT Auto for about 2 months. Bought from a car lot as a non-warranteed part-x clearance car. Had a couple of issues but nothing that was a deal-breaker and bartered what I felt was a fair price at £1700 with 6mths tax & 12mths MOT. Body work is very tidy and leather trim is in good nick.....Managed to cure a few issues so far without much mither (faulty MAF and dodgy rear shocks). Motor seems fine and starts, runs, pulls well without smoking etc. Got a bit Got a question regarding correct keys......was given 2 for it, a red one and a black one. The black one will open the doors but not do the ignition. The red will do the ignition but not the doors.....has this had one or the other lock changed or is this normal? I understand they normally came with a Titanium key as well, which has obviously fallen by the wayside after 21 years....also. Has a GT Auto cat 1 alarm that I would like to connect into central locking, but can't find any diagrams. Emailed the GT in Italy about 6 weeks ago and am still awaiting reply. Don't suppose anybody has had a similar project previously?