Zedzilla

This is a forum, if you post your car what do you expect as a reply? People will say nice z etc.... But there are plenty of ugly zeds around and everybody is entitled to their opinion, "if you dont have anything nice to say dont say anything at all" is really out dated and a bit cotton wool society. If somebody has an opinion I disagree with I will happily discuss it with them. Somebody might put something on their car and they love it, good for them, but if I think its an abomination I have no problem saying it, sure I could say nothing. in saying that I dont want to, if people dont like that they can just keep scrolling.

NEVER try crank your car over if it does this.... water doesnt compress and you'll snap/ bend your conrods..... goodbye engine. shut it off instantly... pull the plugs out, remove air filter for drying. and you'll have to drain your oil as the water will run past the rings, check oil for milkyness you may be lucky if ya catch it quick enough.

Going off what other guys have said, you may as well just remove the stock 1 pin sensor and replace it with the one that came with your gauge. then just not run the stock cluster one.

You've been running it to the wrong wires, 1 sensor on waterpipe has 2 pins, the other has just the one pin, the one with 1 pin goes to the temp gauge, the other sends signals to the ecu that controls the mixture/idle based on engine temp. you'll likely need to only run one gauge off that sensor, no need for the stock one if you have an aftermarket there.

Only a mod could get away with that rear end comment, u been spying on my arse? or did u find the website? 0.o

You say new rubbers fitted but those things are STUFFED... vaseline will see you through for now but if those have been replaced im a tibetan monk.

Last time i actually just used 2 massive flat blade screwdrivers, just tapped them in behind gently in various places and it pops off. didn't damage the oil pump housing, just gotta use some CRC penetrate/ a lubricant that freezes the parts. You could still use a small crowbar, just dont go being a pikey with it.

I know for an n/a its meant to be 720 +/- 50rpm ... thought it was meant to be around 850 for a TT model though. Perhaps i'm mistaken and its a lesser difference between tt and n/a. Anybody know the figures?

If you say so...

Your idle is looking a bit low, does it get any higher?

Its hard not having a Z my first one lasted me all of 2 weeks then i had nothing but a pile of parts for 2 years, having one again and now really getting to know how to drive this car to its potential is just amazing, never the less times are tough these days and i would gladly drive it all day long if i could afford the go juice. See if you can find little things to do on it to keep you going until you have more funds to repair the damage, makes it a bit easier.

Replying a bit late but uhhh.... crowbar.

My old mk3 mini had keys like that, crappiest lock ive ever seen lol Lucas also became a cuss word during ownership.

Pretty common, titanium keys wear out the locks even faster, as pretty as they are i wont be getting one.... titanium key into a non titanium lock = fuxxed lock.

MarkDerby you are right the engine in vid is def a bottom end knock, not what this fella has got, mine has done the same knock as dave brocks is doingheck it did it yesterday, its just the hydraulic tappets and getting oil pressure upto the heads they can get a bit sticky, in saying this regular oiul changes are essential with these engines, because of the tech in them, you also need to maintain correct oil viscousity to keep your VVT solinoids happy.

Had problems with mine with a prong puller, used a proper harmonic balancer puller, there are 2 m6 bolt holes in the centre of the balancer, just put some decent washers on some bolts and use a proper harmonic balancer puller.

Is your Z extremely loud or have u been giving it a bit of hoof in the neighbourhood, more often than not its somebody very nearby you've pissed off... Sorry to see that being done to your Z, they've gone to good effort here, says to me you've pissed somebody off.

Got it all back together with the fixed timing, purrs like a kitten, no idle miss, no miss anywhere, Oh and it goes much faster :D Thankyou for the help gents :D

It would still click given the injectors are controlled by cutting the earth from the injector directly from the ecu. At 120ohm's it won't be feeding fuel correctly, you'll have to replace it. then you'll be on your merry way sir. You're going to need rubber grease for seating the replacement injectors o rings, and it is a plenum pull to get at them.

I'd say somebody was getting a key cut and the blanks were the same, hence a z31 or older Z key cut for a z32...

Correct tt rads are narrower to allow the intake pipes to go through, the lower mounts do have to be changed, z1motorsports have a alloy adaptor available... don't give up, it is an old sports car, comes with ownership.

As i suspected it was like my old do luck... hideous bloodey thing.

*facepalm* @ brightened and illuminating comments... They were a bit dim.

Best one ive seen here in nz was RM4UQT ... room for you cutie... Best numberplate surround ive seen was a blond in a bmw convertible "If you're going to sit up my arse.... At least pull my hair"