Eggs

So I fitted what I could of my exhaust today, backboxes, centre section with H-pipe. When it came to the 2 front sections that come down from each turbo, I found one side would not fit. I'm putting this down to them being modified to fit the old turbos and manifolds. So what is it I'm actually looking for, decat pipes? Is there a difference between SWB and LWB?

Looks smart, maybe spacers on the front?

Can I ask how much that lot was?

I spoke to Nissan recently and you can get the genuine oil from them for about £40. What parts are you changing?

Nice, and you can get both doors open

Have you driven on them in the wet? How'd they fair?

Si and Baz, what size tyres are you running front and rear there?

I just saw a grey J-Spec being driven by a blond lady down Reepham road towards the city?

The important question here is how well you were doing against the R8?

Looks great, I hope you discarded that old nose panel straight into the bin :laugh: Did you buy yourself a spray gun etc then? I've always wanted to try spraying but I imagine it would take quite a few cars to get to a standard I'd be happy to tackle the Z for a full respray.

This arrived, so cut the fins out of the plastic battery tray and fitted it Filled the gearbox with oil and dismantled the exhaust ready for steam cleaning with that beast

I appreciate the workmanship, but I'm all about symmetry with seats

Joel, what flywheel do you use with it? Do you still have the clutch booster inside the drivers wing?

Didn't know any better dude :wacko:

Connected the wastegate actuators to the controller. I will never ever, ever put the engine back in without having the drivers side already connected. Took me nearly 2 hours to get that little b@stard on and zip tie it:cursing:

Absolutely awesome, one of my favourite Zeds ever! The wheels and stance are spot on:thumbup:

If you want OEM try Mike Fenney at MJP EASTERN AUTO in the traders section. If you want silicon try SFS Performance also in the traders section :thumbup:

When I bought my Zed it was in a bad wày mechanically, resulting in the exhaust being completely full of oil down one bank and residue in the other. I know everyone says, "it'll burn off when you drive it", but I really think this will take a while and I don't want to drive around in a twin turbo'd smoke machine, especially considering the first drive will be to the MOT station... Has anyone tackled this before, if so how? I have access to a diesel powered steam cleaner but not sure if this will end up with loads of emulsified oil in the pipes being pumped out as smoke and steam? Would it be worth pouring diesel/white spirit etc in there and sloshing it about? I can see that getting expensive. Options, opinions please guys!

Thanks for the input Jeff. I have a hefty compressor with regulator at the workshop but I'll have to find something to connect to the airline and then clamp onto the tyre fitting of the MAF blank. At present I'm using a press on tyre inflator.

Nice pics Gary

Yeah I'd heard of people blowing oil seals, that would not be cool! I never noticed the 5psi in the FSM but will stick to that cheers :thumbup:

Ah that's great thanks bud, does she run well? Mine took about 90secs to bleed down from 5psi. On a different note, I was looking for answers on http://www.boostpro.net/guidesz32basic.html who made my boost tester. I noticed they recommend 7psi so I tested again at that which exposed a massive leak from a hose clamp that I hadn't done tight enough. It was holding fine at 5psi

Cheers for the info Si. I'll put a sound clip up once she's running properly, sounded pretty nice from what I remember :tongue_smilie:

So I rigged up the boost leak tester last night as the idle was horrendous. Unsurprisingly I found some big leaks on a couple of nipples left over from deletes that I hadn't noticed or weren't noted on that famous Vac diagram from Z32 wiki. So the info I've read says to pressurise to 5psi max. I can do this, but how long should I reasonably expect it to stay there, or how long to bleed out? I totally appreciate it's not an airtight system by any means, but I have no idea what I'm looking for or what is acceptable.

I went to pick up a load of fluids yesterday including a couple of litres of 5.1 brake fluid. The guy serving me turns around and tells me it's for race use only, not for road vehicles?! I asked why and he did the rabbit in headlights look. I asked if he was confusing it with Dot 5, the silicon based fluid, he glazed over and told me it's just not for road use. He's completely wrong right, I understood it to be compatible with any Dot 3/4 system and has the bonus of a higher boiling temperature? My brake systems been dismantled in full around the engine bay. If I'm going to replace the fluid with Dot 5.1 what's the best way of flushing the old stuff in the lines out as it's been sitting around for ages exposed to the atmosphere especially the rear lines for example that haven't been removed? Just suck up the cost and do it with 5.1 or run a litre of Dot 4 through first?