evilanger

I believe that goes to a hardline, which in turn, feeds the passenger side turbo

The right hand brown arrow isn't connected to it, there looks to be be two brackets that are using the lower intake bolts and there a connection on the left hand side of the right hand vtc solenoid

I don't suppose anyone has a drivers side engine mount, need one asap and haven't funds for a new one.

I'm doing the same, although I've had to remove the engine due to unforeseen circumstances.... I use this site alot... http://z32.wikispaces.com/Coolant+Line+Bypass

Should the pipe with the bolt jubilee clipped in the end be connected to the open turbo pipe? If a hard pipe was leaking I take it the coolant flows down into the turbo from the blanked pipe, not up from the turbo?

Ok, so I pulled the engine out due to ongoing maintenance and noticed this.... Am I right in thinking the coolant line has been blocked off? If so, for what reason?

Does anyone have a rust free tailgate that they want to sell? Colour is irrelevant as is spoiler. Must be within a couple of hours drive of Norfolk or willing to send. Cheers.

Thanks for the advice guys, I'll let you know how I get on. I'm leaving it for a day or two, need a break!

That's a good idea, I already cut the pipe flush with the nut. So I could get a socket on it, but I think there may be enough room to weld it up. Thanks

Thanks

On the forum home page, it says 41,500 threads in help and advice. But only three pages in that section, so it's not just the search function.

Just paid subscription, so that's done and I'll try the advanced search. Cheers.

I tried that and still only got recent posts, I know it sounds stupid, but am I still subscribed? I can't remember how to tell. Maybe that's the problem?

Ok, so I brinjibg "it" out of hibernation because it looks like the sun might be about for a full week. I've been preparing everything for a plenum pull, egr delete and injector change for a few months and expected a couple of days messing about with it all as I planned on cleaning up some dodgy vacuum lines and painting a few bits as I went. Started Thursday evening, plenum off, EGR out and the two hardliners to the plenum removed. Just the EGR to manifold feed pipe to remove. Well, it's now Saturday evening, I'm about £50 lighter in my pocket due too buying extra tools. I have three knuckles left that still look relatively normal. I've possibly broke my thumb and the bolt, if you can call it that as it doesn't resemble one anymore, is still in there. I presume my only options are too remove the passenger side manifold or pull the engine. What's easier? I'd guess, pulling the engine? Or any other ideas please. I have tried everything I can think of, i have to admit, that there was a point where I nearly cried. It really is that bad.

When I enter the help and advice section there are only 3 pages of threads showing. Where have all the previous ones gone? Maybe it's just me being dumb?

I did read somewhere the other week, that they are not needed. However if that were the case, presumably they wouldn't be there in the first place.

Oh, I see. Probably should of noticed. I thought I was being ripped off! Cheers

Why when I log into zcentre do the prices rise by nearly 25%??

Thanks stephen and jeff, very helpful. Jeff in your opinion, is it worth changing to the later spec injectors?

Already on the multimeter, should have a new one tomorrow. With regards to the injectors, if I were to change to the later style, I would need injectors, rail and connections. Anything else?

Any ideas anyone?

Sorry did answer all posts in that last post, but seem to have lost some of my reply. Ptu and injector connections have been checked and cleaned, ptu was swapped 6 moths ago with a spare. None of the replacement injectors have failed as far as I recall, car is 1991, so phase 1 injectors. The injectors are not new. Always run on tesco premium unleaded.

My apologies for not explaining clearly. When it runs on 5, the 6th cylinder does not "come back" until I swap the injector. It is not an intermittent problem. When I said the dropped cylinder is moving, I meant that the failing injector has not been on the same cylinder. By diagnosing the injector, first I swap coils, then plugs, then screwdriver test and then swap injectors. I would/should ohm test, but my multimeter is dead. Been meaning to get a new one for ages. I think the problem is almost definitely just the injectors, having eliminated most other options. It just seems unlikely to me that I would lose so many in a relatively short space of time. I am on a budget, so I dont want to waste money making the wrong decision.

After some advice please, Ive owned this car for about a year now (jap tt) and during the time ive owned it, its been reasonably reliable, except for an unresolved boost issue and it now needs its 4th injector. Please ignore the boost problem as I dont think its relevant to this issue. When I bought the car it had a few dodgy "fixes",I think ive sorted all of them and interestingly it was sold with a bag of 6 standard injectors as it had upgraded ones fitted (it didnt).Every now again it runs on 5 and by swapping the injector with one from the bag it runs on all 6 again. The dropped cylinder is moving, so in my opinion would rule out a wiring fault. The plenum has been dremelled so swapping hasnt been to much of a problem until now. The dead injector is the back left cylinder as you look from the front of the car. ( not sure of numerical layout). So im gonna remove the plenum to do this one and do the deletes at the same time. The advice id like is, how likely to lose 4 injectors in a year? Could this be something other than injectors? I jave a third working set of injectors in another engine I could use, would it be worth getting these ultrasonic cleaned? Or do I just put a new set in? Any help would be appreciated as always, thanks.

It'll be the UJ, had the same problem. Not difficult to swap.