Silverline

its a maybe but i might have my gtx2867's by then :)

Im in :)

Do not use the 2.50 ones please Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

The fuchs is a good oil and dropping to a 5/40 on a fully synthetic oil of this quality gives better cold start protection with out hindering high temp thickness and due to its viscosity and lubricant benefits of this particular oil an increase in power and better fuel economy can also be seen on some healthy engines Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

as Jeff said the other treatment i would consider is millers engine flush avaliable from opie oils followed by 5 literes of fuchs pros 5/40 engine oil and a new filter

When running with rad cap on does it do anthing alarming Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Which is closest Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

just check the rolling radious on there website and match it as closely to the rear ones

r888 is the tyre you want i love my r1rs but they dont do your sizes buy the 888's they have tremendous grip compared to just about anything

so use the 235 on the front they do that toyo tyres tend to be 5 -10mm wider than everyone elses anyway for example my 245 fronts r1r was wider than my old rear continental 255 so safe to say you will be fine with the 235 r888 its a great tyre with surprisingly good grip in the wet as well

thanks Jeff another point i should also have made is that if your fluid is old and haggered the transmission uses the fluid to put the power to the wheels so even if your engine is making good power a lot of it will be lost going to the wheels in the old fluid so you could be gaining horsepower at the wheels by removing it by using a good clean fluid

is there any mayo in the oil filler cap ?

opie oils sell it online http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60163-fuchs-titan-atf-4400-automatic-transmission-fluid-for-japanese-cars.aspx

no its fine i run 245 on mine no issues at all tyre compound had more issues on this than size i have found harder tyres being the culprit

as above :)

I would remove it cut it of flare it and clean it you dont want any swarf going round your pump it will kill it as with all pipes fluid or air it will need swaging or flaring otherwise you riding on time or luck before it comes of or seeps so procedure is remove cut flaire or swage even have a lip welded on if you want refit and secure with one jubilee clip and torque clip to correct setting

Good luck and good to speak to you again this week been to long

Now as most people running the Auto Transmission drive around at half throttle in case there gearbox falls of I thought i would try and restore some faith I as some of you may know also run a stagea turbo which is more or less the same box design as the z32 i have decided unlike most (noz excluded) to push the auto box as i don't think the issue lies in the box but the lack of maintenance and using cheap atf that is not up to the job causes the failures Fuchs have introduced a new ATF For Japanese gear boxes model code 4400 for the fluid i have currently upgraded it in my stagea from normal atf as im starting to apply more power to the rb25 So results after a days work cleaning the system sump of and filter and magnet cleaned are well outstanding shifts are quicker and smoother the over drive locks up from cold in nearly half the distance and lots earlier when warm the slipage its always had with i might add even with new fluid has now completely gone you will need about 9-10 liters to do this properly as you need to fill run it and drain it in order to slowley flush the old fluid out the system which cant be done any other way without box out but around 4 drains and 3 fill ups sees fresh fluid on the last drain So i recommend anyone running an auto box to order this fluid i cant commend it enough and to spend a day doing the above its the best saftey precaution and basic upgrade i can recommend for your Auto Transmission in my years of experience tuning

thank you sir yes you are correct it will help with longevity not function as the valve can take a beating under certain conditions

the boost wont affect the head though if it is in good condtion dosnet matter if it's 5 or 25 psi thead is still capable of running in those condtions the only limiting factor to it making power is cam size and duration in technical terms and that will not be an issue unless you are looking for big power in which case be it a turbo or non turbo head you would need to upgrade these components

so your prognosis was based on heresay from what you have read on american websites using n/a engines and not on the head design so just to clear this up as i hate people to read anything thats open to being misleading the head will in good condition be fine any comparable boost levels used in uprated conditions the valves will also be fine as if mapped correctly they will not melt the cams only alter the power band and where its produced and amount of air and fuel allowed in with size of lobe so when mapped correctly can be used at any boost level only rpm is restricted here valve springs limit rpm by strength to hold the valve at its given rpm so with stock cams not an issue here again valve buckets are the same and if good will also be fine as long as oil is 10/40 or below so the oil is not to thick ie 10/50 as it will cause valve float on rev limiter i dont think i have missed any components out if so please let me know so on that basis if any one wishes to use n/a heads in a turbo yes it will be fine if mapped correctly if running the stock ecu Noz will be the man do do this for you and feel free to upgrade your valves springs cams and valves and it will only be better if anyone would like further information please feel free to give me a pm for any advice only happy to help club member's get the best information i can give them

The cams will be fine if mapped correctly as will the valves just because they arnt inconel dosen't mean they will burn out as heat only increases in a bad way if it is running lean or has vey bad retarded timing so just wondered why only 5-7 psi as i cant see any reason for that with an n/a cylinder head

any particular reason why 5-7 psi mark ?

there is a slightly better flow on the n/a heads and they have a different part number both are of course interchangable

My mate Cody makes a fantastic turbo kit for the nsx Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk