Bartflaster

For further info I have a reply i asked what grade of steel it was made from and if they supply only this is the reply: thank you for your email we only use t304 grade stainless steel only. and this is all custom made to the car so we can only supply and fit it for you as we make it to the car but will have them on the shelfs just to buy and then you can make the pipes up and weld them on it will be about £110 for the two but they will be back in stock in 1 month sorry dont have the size of the stock box as we just make it up when we have the car on the ramp many thanks if your not sure of any thing please do get it touch and you have a good day That doesn't sound too bad at all £110 supplied for 2 stainless back boxes, but obviously they will need pipework sorting.

Just sent Q ... how much supplied as straight replacement for standard items, bet he won't do it ;)

yep lower number = further out, as long as the rim width is the same .... this is quite a useful calculator Linky

Similar to Yowser, mine is registered as a Nissan and nothing in the model name.

Nice driving, and as has been mentioned was performing fantastic, Excellent stuff and thanks for sharing :)

Belated happy returns :)

LoL ... but I did get distracted by the link for: This next to it :) :drool: :whistling:

I think Marty posted it in his thread: http://300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=148066

Thanks, Jeffs/Zedworld look like good value, but hopefully mine will hold charge :) But that answers my size question .... its a big beastie battery :lol:

Well battery charged overnight and started car fine this morning, so fingers crossed it holds charge :) BTW What is the correct dimension battery to fit properley on the tray ? (thanks Andy :thumbup1:)

Well I managed to borrow a battery charger ... no idea if it works lol. It had been sat in the guys shed for a few years, but it outputs ~12.5v tested with a multimeter. The amp guage is sat at 0 though so I guess I just have to wait and see if its worked after a few hours. The battery registered 11.85v on its own with the multimeter.

Thats probably half the problem, the car has been sat for a while and only driven short distances while I have been sorting bits and bobs out, and thats likely to continue for a month or so yet.

Cheers guys, Hopefully its just in need of a charge, what Amperage charger will I need ?

No, Not a member of those.

Ok guys, just went to move the car and the starter motor is making clicking sounds coupled with ignition lights going out when it would be cranking. Sounds to me like the battery is dead/flat. First of, does anyone know the correct battery for the Z, and were the cheapest place to buy a reasonable one is for worst case scenario ? No-one I know nearby has a charger I can borrow, so looks like I am going to have to spend again :( What do I need to look for to ensure I get one man enough for the correct battery ?

Still has the drive at the wrong end :p

Never a truer word spoken :lol::lol:

BacK OT .... Car.Mads new motor: Mitsi Evo ... err depending on budget 6,7,8 or 9 ??

Happy Birthday Andy, have a good day :) :pint:

Cheers guys :) Yes they are allowed, when I'm not spending time setting up one of my club car's ;) The boys have a regular scalextric track, but because their sister is 19 months old, you can imagine getting it set up in the living room is not a good idea ! I actually prefer them to use the routered track, as there is no magnetic "downforce" like they get with the plastic track, so they have to learn to control their speed, and at least then they are not (usually) going warp 10 when they do come off ! :)

Pretty simple to do, just a bit time consuming and dusty ! 12mm mdf boards for the track surface, 1/8 (just under 3.2mm) router bit to route the slot, to a depth of 8mm. Use whatever you prefer to shape, a straight edge for the straights obviously. I made up a radius arm for the constant radi parts, (you can obviously use this to make combi radi corners as I did for one), and for the non uniform parts, I used a bit of overflow pipe with screws every so often for a guide. Once you have one lane routered, I made up a simple router base with guide pins to follow that with an offset to keep the other lanes parallel. A closer offset in the squeeze sections and I used the waste tube to join the standard spacing to the squeeze section spacing. Self adhesive copper tape provides the power pick up, with brass bolts going through to allow wiring under the track, all wired to the lanes and controller boxes, which are in turn wired to the power supply. Track timing is achieved using infra red led sensors to create a beam (the start finish "bridge" is housing one set, the other set is set into the track). This info is fed to some software on a PC via the printer port, from there I can see lap times, average speed (scale or actual) etc, even have fuel usage based on lap times. A "pit stop" is generated by stopping over the infra red sensors for more than a set time, and fuel will be refilled and displayed on the PC, so you can choose to "splash and dash" or fully refuel depending on how many laps are left, or what strategy you want to run.

And a couple of overviews:

Group C's line up on the start line, before the light bridge: As some spectators check out the approx 1/2 scale (to the little people) Hawker Hunter model: and a couple look around the track day cars for hire (not the Veyron, thats one of the track owners personal cars !): The Group C's passing "Hungry Hanks" burger van: The rally cars practicing while the campers fire up the BBQ and have a party: Then into the squeeze section: Some muscle cars negotiating the second hairpin: then coming onto the straight past the truck park:

... in miniature :tt2: Or my other hobby, I could say its for my boys, but I would be lying :lol: Boards are down and rough chalked in the track, now got to router the slots ... Hunter Valley racetrack begins: