Stephen

just have to wait till its light out have a good look :)

right as i understand it theres a square nut on the back so il have to pull it forward then wind till it falls off...the guides ive read say to drop the anti roll bar, i cant see taht being necessary atm... il probally be proved wrong hahaha

well get used to them because they are going to become a europeon manufacturers manadorty. :/ personally i quite like them, gives the front a mean look, and also anything that gives the dick heads round here an extra chance to see me coming is good in my eyes, it might be red and loud but they still seem to not notice it lol... the main reason wanted them is teh led sidelights look like a token guesture next to the hids

well the cars up off the floor atm, got half an hour in thonight before the light faded, just gotta get the main bolt off and drop the alterantor now. im 99% certain its the al at fault. brushes have gone due to it being soaked in power steering fluid. i was reading on the us forum that apprantly theres a regulator in the cuircuit from the alt and this can fail causing the battery to drain in hours so maybe tahts one for you to look at?

did you resolve this yet?

right after about half hours work the alternator is loosened the belt disconnected, only thing is the main bolt doesnt seem to want to undo. it turns it just doesnt seem to be undoing.....:s its not loose but its not supertight... and how do i get to the connections at the rear to remove it? the subframe is in the way?

ha have you drivenb the zed with no powered steering i have its the heaviest steering in the world lol i would also go with a sensor fault, i think tbh if you overfill it just overspills. i dont think the two are connected. just coincidence.

search is your friend.

just been chattig to my neighbour a apprentice co-ordinator for mechanics looks after the bmw appretices etc. anyways he said it does sound like im correct and the reason it would have dimmed the battery light etc while over a certain speed is that its most likly the brushes have failed, at higher speeds teh vibrtaions etc allow it to arch out and connect the circuit allowing a small power transferance. anyways, il be getting the car up in the air this week, and connecting the new alt, apprantly there should be two connections there a thick one which is a feed to the battery, and a connector block. the alt can be checked from the thick one and the chasis and should read 12v then obviously once the egine is running i can re run the checks and get a more positive outcome. bloody cars!

might of been a modded r32 golf. my mate has one its pretty quick standard zed does pull on it though. however they can be supercharged without too much effort. then its a new game i suppose.

veilside looks best with your widearch etc.

right i just did the following tests, engine off 12.1v engine running nothing else on known 11.61v hids disconnected no change engine running negative taken from body not the neg terminal. 11.59v is there a way to test the actually power held by the battery ie its charge? would that be in amps? that way i can test to see if something is draining the battery when the ignition is off. im pretty sure its the alternator sadly. is there a wy to test the alternators functionality off the car?? I HATE ELECTRICS! ive also had a quick look at the dash where i was fiddling nothings been disconnected. and ive also had a peek at the drivers footwell fuse box and the drivers side fuse box by the servo. nothing seems wrong there. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

cheers guys, gaz il be in touch. and cheers craig if gaz doesnt have one il let you know. anyways il go test the battery later on today with the hids disconnected and check ive not disturbed anything on the ash cluster, when i was fiddling. i wouldnt be surprised if it was the alternator, i had a powersteering leak issue that got all over it, but that stopped a while back, i do think there is a slight oil leak from the coupler on the oil cooler which is directly in line, also ive just done my radiator etc and its likly coolant got down there but again taht was weeks ago. anyways i suppose its possible its just all accumilated and now its finally given up the ghost. theres no in line fuses that will prevent the alternator charging the battery is there? it was obviously starting to charge a little bit over the 2500 rpm. hence the lights going out which does all futher the mystery, however i revved the engine yesterday and the voltage didnt increase...hrm.

Nope everything was off to my knowledge

i think if i pop out the 300kph clock and pop in the 180kph one the speed changer will still be the same as its resisting the kmph by a value to achive a mph figure. will be a pain in the ass if im wrong....

right i fitted hids on wednesday and got to try them out last night, on a 15 mile drive really impressed loads different. however on the way back this morning, i turned the car on and the usual lights illuminated on the dash except they didnt go out. the battery light the hicas the antilock and the lights. within a few minutes all but the battery light had disapperaed and the battery light had dimmed right down. then as soon as i dropped below 2500 rpm they would all reappear accompanied by the sound of what can only be described as a bee. foot down back off. :s so i tested the battery, 12.1v across the terminals, engine on 11.8vs. so i would assume the alternator isnt charging? and therefore at fault. now is there anything else i can do to be sure on this subject as obviously replacing the alterantor is quite time consuming. the lights and everything still work, but the dash is dim. i have had the top of teh dash cluster off to change the lightbulbs behind there, this week and tahst where the buzzing seemed to come from. although obviously it could have been the alternator as its down that side. i think it was raining last night.....anyways any further ideas greatly recived. :confused1:

ive recently popped my sidelights into the turn signal hole in the crystal indicators, it looks great however im just not thinking they are bright enough. when i look at the new alfas and mercs with there bright led sidelights mine are no where near as bright. the one i went for was this style. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-T10-501-W5W-168-Capless-4-LED-Front-Sidelight-Bulb-/360403679752?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D3964410475522698460 now knowing one or two things about spectral outputs and keenly following the progress of led i was thinking that smds would be better as they are generally brighter and are vibration proof. anyways. has anyone used this style for instance? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-PCS-T10-6-SMD-LED-Bulb-12v-T8-168-194-501-Xenon-White-/280765424095?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item415eec61df i know these things are pence however id rather get it right without trying umpteen different types. also do i have to worry about cambus?

Currently my car is fitted with a rather difficult to read speedo, its in k/ph and goes upto 300 kmph. The converter, now means that 30mph shows as 30kph so the gauge reads upto 300mph. Not very usefull. So im setting about changing this. Ive aquired a speedo which reads upto 180 but I noticed it actually says on it kph, so now im a little confused, what do I need to do to get my car to read as if it where a uk car. And why do I have these weird clocks, as a side note my jap clocks have zsport written in the centre

Should have safety boost all the same, so, dett sensor or its a boost leak.

wont be on here mate they never are...... :/ oh and btw i effing love your car. i havent said it enough times

Ha ha where can this invaluable tool be purchased. These promo companies really do pull some mingers out these days. Effect looks spot on on the cars though

Engine is gorgeous, but there is farrrrr too much camber

Ok il have to bus it though. What time you goinh.down?

Wheres that?

fingers crossed. you working tonight?