Stephen

+1

For road use, rebuilt callipers, braided lines and some good quality solid discs and good quality pads are fine. Brembo discs and pads in the stock sizes are available and reasonable, couldn't tell you what discs I have the pads are pattern ones, my brakes work pretty damn well. For even mild track use, an upgrade is inevitable.

Agreed, that looks ideal to me Si.

Trader/seller feedback rated out of 5 stars or a % similar to ebay would be fine?

Just try...change the rad cap to an OEM one, the one that cane with my japspeed rad started pissing out coolant. P.S pulling the head in situee is a bell! The turbo makes taking the manifold off seriously messy, might be a lot easier to pull the block and have at it.

Slot of people wouldn't notice that during installation, so wouldn't even be able to sort it.

Depending on times Grover I could meet you on the 27

It's certainly a fair suggestion, equally for south west people using the m5 would negate the m4 I believe.

Basically straight up the A34 heading north, to pick up the M40. So for me it would be m27,m3,a34 and m40 then some minor roads.

Yeah I see that Richard but I suppose it depends which part. If your well in the east you would pick up the M1 would you not? However if your more west the m4 can be picked up and it won't add too much time to the journey, esp at that sort of time.

Pretty sure there a valve near the heater matrix that regulates the temperature, mine had the same issue I removed the aircon in the end for various reasons but even on Econ it blows hot set at 10c apart from about 4am one morning on the way to Japfest when it blew ice cold the whole way there, then never did it again. Pretty sure that valves jammed open allowing engine coolant at full temp into the cabin.

Hi guys, Anyone that's heading up north for this and wants to convoy together I think Chievley Services where the A34 meets the M4 would be a good place to meet it allows those from the south east and south west to catch up with us as well albeit with a slight detour. Obviously this would be early doors. Any comments or suggestions encouraged. Interested parties below please; 1.Myself

Post coming up in south central for a meet point for convoy.

You should stick a photo up gaz

Saw you about 10 cars infront, wanted to catch up but you over took a lorry and were gone. Plus I was in my van?who was it then? Bout 9am thus morning.

It's one of those things isn't it, once you put it down its getting going again that's hard. Is tgere much to actually do to it?

When you gonna tax that thing and drive it? Lovely car needs using mate.

On your car do it mate, it wouldn't suit mine but yours yeah. Esp combined with uk spec indicators.

That Uk based myth is finally starting to die I recon. Check out the yanks take in the ability if the STOCK engine! Did some one bolt gt3071's on? http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=218616&page=6

It's a 25 year old top of its range sports car, Nissan went above and beyond with the z32. Rust? yeah they rust, all cars rust. Looking around at mid aged cars though you see some right rot boxes, ford Ka for example I'm pretty sure the rest was added from the factory. They're just getting on, that's all. If you hunt around you will find looked after rot free examples easy enough. Rear sills as said suffer due to the tt top design and general salty British roads. Hard to work on? Well they didn't really think too much about that, the engine was shoe horned in there as low as possible and as compact as possible, for a purpose. If you don't know them that engine bay is daunting even to trained mechanics, so you need a specific person who knows what they are doing, with relevant experience not some "jap specialist" who thinks it's a fat 200sx. Expensive? It's an uncommon car with some quirks, not a run of the mill Honda etc. So parts are a touch pricey if I'm honest and labour can add up esp if your paying somebody to learn, that's where experience comes into it. I remember being quoted 20 hours to pull the block! It took less than half that with a mate that had done it before. Over heating is caused by poor maintenance, the engine bay is hot and hostile due to it's layout, so those rubber coolant lines of which there are a few in there get brittle split and you loose all the coolant. Sludged up rads etc don't help either. I've sat in a hour long traffic jam in high summer before without it so much as braking a sweat, but every hose has been replaced and a new rad and the system flushed out. There's plenty of these cars in places like Texas not overheating. The reality is your looking at a car that was originally rather expensive and is now fairly old. It's never going to be a cheap hack. However if you want something different with a big chunk of power and loads of potential it might be the car for you. I admired them for years before going out in one and realising I needed one. I've had it five years now, I won't be letting to of it.

Ouch, let's hope the pound gains on the dollar a bit then, last time I imported anything from the states it was $2 to the £1

If like to know this as well.

The japspeed one is bloody good value for money. Had mine for about 3/4 years bang on, it's not the loudest or the quietest.

The pedal has a different leverage point on the NA to compensate, I Spose the worst that will happen is the clutch will fail...

If it was an Na clutch it would be smaller in diameter, the flywheel comes with it right? If so the starter wouldn't engage on the ring. If you'd used the stock fly with an Na friction disc it wouldn't mesh up I don't think, the bolts on the finger plate part wouldn't line up, due to diameter difference at a guess. The finger plate designates the pressure you feel on the pedal does it not?