WillyEd

Always anticipate yourself coming the other way!

Mattymoo - I had to do this a few weeks ago now to bleed the hicas unit (as I'd had the subframe off). (From memory here:) - Sit in car with ignition off - Make sure steering wheel is central - Perform the following all within 10 seconds: - Turn steering wheel from left to right 5 times (so that about 10 actual movements) - then press the brake pedal 5 times If that's been executed correctly you should find that turning the steering wheel left or right will now move the rear wheels. I'll post back in a minute if I can find the page in the online manual. Found it: Online manual (page 73 in the steering section) Hope this helps Simon.

:( Very sorry to hear your bad news m8. Wife's grandmother swears by acupuncture for it (oh, and lots of red wine!) - worth a try I reckon to relieve the symptoms when they're at their worst. Emigration next I reckon, as reflected by a change in username: deve8decosta or deve8grancanaria maybe in order!? :) Anyhow, keep your chin up mate.

Andy, I've seen this said a few times recently: that the OEM rail on pre-94 has a fuelling problem to number 6. Can you explain why? Surely the fuel pressure is uniform in the entire rail? i.e. hydraulic pressure will always remain the same throughout a liquid (where depth of the fluid (read gravity) isn't taken into consideration). The flow rate will be restricted by the narrowest point in the rail - which is where the pipe-work joins the rubber hoses. ?? Si.

Common sense prevails (at least for now). In time, what with all schools only really teaching in metric, I think going metric will happen. Give it another 10/15 years and the issue will raise itself once again IMO.

get them reconditioned - much cheaper than forking out for new ones. AND, if you send off all 6 they'll flow test them and adjust (where possible) to match the flow rates up. Here's a start: http://injectorcleaning.com/ Si.

There are plenty of other engine/Z builders out there who are more competent AND have good business practice. My opinion - look elsewhere!

- worn valve seats - sticking valves - head gasket leak? there may be other possibilities....

A morning set of runs on a dyno simulates a few hundred miles worth of cylinder wear - so will be bed those rings in nicely. The Person who built my engine first time around said don't over-rev it, and don't load it up at very low revs. Basically drive it hard but don't go over 3,500 for the first few hundred miles. Si.

Shiney new pipe is in the post! :cool: You should get it tomorrow.

Datascan a.k.a Blazt - Ipswich (East)

Hi mate, Can't access PM's yet it seems - email if you can. If you're not too happy about sending your address in an email then txt it to me: 07818 276694 Cheers Si.

No worries mate! Not sure if anyone's noticed my renewal funds yet so you might not be able to PM!

Before going to the expense of buying a new injector check to see if your ones are working with either the 'screwdriver-handle in the ear' trick or get one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SEALEY-Car-Mechanics-Garage-Stethoscope-Brand-New_W0QQitemZ160151432247QQihZ006QQcategoryZ11704QQcmdZViewItem try wiggling the injector connect which doing it! The dredded crusty-green-shit might be causing a bad connection. Si.

Send me your address and I'll send you a new brake pipe (just tell me which wheel it's for first!) simon.b.williams@talk21.com (Why am I doing this?? I've just replace all the brake lines on mine to get it through the MOT and got enough 3/16 copper pipe and ends left for a couple of small jobs) Si. (feeling rather generous tonight for some reason!)

"... Sensory overload..." it says. That's why no sane person will bid / buyitnow! :)

One of the Pics from that Arizonazcar link: :hurl:

From one father of an 'Oliver' to another: Congratulations!!! :cool: Never thought I'd say this a few years ago - but kids are the most rewarding thing in the world - no money / car / house or lottery win could replace them. Grab whatever sleep you can! All the best Simon.

Mark, AFAIK, that HKS exhaust is very similar to the Blitz realize TT exhaust - i.e. the only stainless parts are the back boxes and tail pipes. All the rest are high carbon steel with an aluminium paint. So you'll need to repaint once every couple of years to keep the rust at bay! Si.

I agree. Getting the car fixed quickly is key here so will gladly pay for the P&P in both directions if someone does have a spare I could use for 7 days? If a kind soul was to lend me an ECU - they will have to be happy for me to put my 555 chip in - so an ECU that's been socketed will be necessary - unless you'd like a socket fitted FOC. The ECU will also have to be a pre-96 one (i.e. The common 16bit one, not the later one with OBDII etc) Simon.

I'm having some problems, which I think maybe ECU related: Car was running sweet as a nut on Friday night, used datascan (Blazt) to check for ECU errors (code 55: all ok!) Saturday morning however, I started up ready for the MOT and was running really rough from cold to running temp at all revs including idle - and it sounded like a lawn mower! I could smell it was running really rich too. (Still error code:55) (It's worth pointing out here that this is first time ever my engine has missed a beat!) Quickly fired up Blazt again and using the power balance test shows that no.1 wasn't firing. I got the car stethoscope out and all injectors are happily clicking away. Removed the coil pack and checked for spark - all fine! So, decided to perform a datalog using Blazt - which was fine but upon viewing the log - its recorded some weird spikes. Examples: In the RPM log: I peaked at 379775 RPM! (The rest of graph looks ok) In the Water temp log: I had a negative peak at -50 oC In the battery voltage log: (and this maybe a good symptom): Dropped to 6v all of a sudden! By this point - I'm at the MOT station some 5 miles down the road, and the car's running no better. Sure enough it fails on the emissions due to an excessive hydrocarbon level! Finally I get the car home - connect up Blazt again - maybe to get the error code out: still 55 - and Blazt freezes! So terminate the app, reload and try again. It runs again for around 10 seconds - and proptly freezes again! So I'm rather confused! Other factors worth considering: - PTU is only 2 or 3 years old and all connections are fine - Injectors are newish (~5 years old) - Injector connectors are ~ 5yrs old - Temp sensor is clean - Temp sensor connector is ~5 years old - so no crustiness yet! - I've ruled out a dodgy O2 sensor because the engine was playing up from cold, and the ECU, afaik, is running off the map during warm up. - Boost gauge shows a healthy amount of vacuum when the throttles are closed, which leads me to believe there's no leaks anywhere. Anyone have any idea what I'm experiencing?? (Except for what is known as "Z ownership syndrome!" lol) Any help would be greatly received - I've only got 10 days to get it retested for free! Cheers Simon.

Very interesting, although it's missing a few vitally important stats: - "Number of Z32's remaining" (Broken down by cause of 'death': crash, fire, bad weather (see crash!) etc etc :))

Your carbon canister can be removed if you like - but what you describe is normal - i.e. the pipe that disappears into the chassis rail. I believe it's just a vent hose. Another kind soul will be along shortly to elaborate on its removal I'm sure.... :)

Extraction championships - sounds excellent. Although I'm glad you're a fireman and not a dentist! ;)

A "log manifold" - muhahaha :D What's going on with the HT leads though?? Have they gone back to single coil?? Or have the six coil packs been put elsewhere for some reason?