WillyEd

Wait, wait.... i think there is a good bit........ one of the rear wheel bolts!!! There, the car is worth something after all!!! LOL, not an insurance write-off - bwhahaha - I think if he (or she) told them they might disagree!

I've no first-hand experience, but I reckon the stuff works - Was watching "road wars" last night and the number plate looked blank on the video So they booked the driver for that!

You won't find chapter called 'selling your dirty money on eBay' listed in the "Dummys guide to money laundering" :D

There is some truth in those statements: The first Z32 rolled off the Japanese production line in July 1989 - which is why you sometimes see Z32's on an F-plate in autotrader. The first Z32 in USA, Europe and Australia was 1990. then at the other end... Nissan officially ceased production of the UK Z32 in 1994, although the number of cars made, meant it still sold for another year or so. The new emission regulations introduced in the USA in 1997 meant the Z32 would fail, so it was dropped in 1996, which also coinsided with its withdrawal from Australia. Finally, last Japanese models stopped sometime in 2000. (I say sometime, becausethe book I have which states all of above was poduced in 1999, and it does state that in Japen the Z32 is still being produced.) All these stats available in "Datsun/Nissan 280/300 ZX": ISBN 1-901295-06-0 I definitely recommend this book it's got lots of little known facts about all the Z models, including the SMZ, Veilside Combat Z, Version R and Version S. A list of accessories available for the 1999spec: parking sensors, ROOF RACK! etc... Simon.

I've read that web-page regarding the filteration of the filters. But nowhere have I read that the Apexi's have the best airflow - I would be interested to know if someones got a link to show that this is indeed the case. If no such figures are availble, it would be interesting to get a few members filters together and have 'flow-bench' day (rather than a 'dyno day') somewhere. It's always been my opinion that the HKS green mushroom filter probably has the best airflow, because it has the worst filtration - i.e. you can see through the filter when you hold it up to the light! Simon.

Hmm seem to have got it sorted myself anyway.... Just made sure one of the indents on the piston lined up with the lug on the brake pad - and everything seems fine! Simon.

Cheers Si. The pistons on the Tino are generally flat, except for the two location points for a 'wind-back' tool, and can be turned by hand. I'm guessing the turning is winding back the handbrake adjustment screw inside. Once the piston is fully retracted - should I stop winding or keep going until I can no longer turn it you reckon?? Just found this too: http://www.workshopmanuals.co.uk/workshop_manuals/cars/nissan/nissan_almera_tino_workshop_manuals.htm They want £10 for the whole manual in PDF format which sounds like a good deal to me - unless there's an online one / free copy knocking around? Cheers Simon.

Hi All, I need to call upon someone elses knowledge for some help and advice..... I've got to change the pads on my wife's Tino (2001 model), and the rear calipers need the piston wound back to fit the new pads. Now, this is the first car I've had where I've had to wind back the piston, so do I just turn it - which I can with my fingers, or do I need to get the G-clamp out too and give it a push as well? Also, how is the handbrake affected when doing the above - since the handbrake cable pulls on a lever which goes inside the caliper too. Regards Simon.

I'm currently in the process of re-building a diesel 1958 BMC 2.2 from a boat. The fuel pump is ok, but if I had to replace it - it would be mega bucks from what I've been told. Simon.

verrrrr nice :) Another music vid clip for you all: http://www.video-c.co.uk/dance/toptenwatch.asp?vidref=free008&text=&playback=M&player=WM Simon.

I think you meant: the flywheel should be skimmed or re-ground when fitting a new clutch...?

Hi Matz, They are both normal thread. Remove the side you've just done - and use a spanner on the 'flats' of the shaft to hold it still while you loosen the other side. Hope this helps Simon.

Hi Mate, Get a copy of Eric's (Lymon) rescale program: http://300zx-twinturbo.com/temp/rom_rescale.1.1.exe This will let you to rescale a 340cc map to 555 (and other configurations), which you can then burn to a chip. I'm currently running a re-scaled (for 555's) map from my original OEM chip. See the thread on zcontrol.net: http://ecu2.forumwise.com/ecu2-thread1085.html Regards Simon.

If they're 'normal' LEDs, they'll probably last about 30 seconds at a guess.... But you can buy LEDs with built in resisters - so can be directly connected to a 12v supply. If you have this kind - you'll see a little dark dot under the anode inside the casing. Simon.

What's he driving I wonder - perhaps now yours is back it outshines his ;)

I noticed people doing this at a junction near me - usually they're taking advantage of the pause in driving and start texting on their phones!

'cause it looks better than the dirty yellow thing I've got :) Just be one of those nice-to-have things I spose...

LOL - boost leaks are always hard to find :)

Wish I could get my hands on a clear fan :cry: Simon.

That's a good vid, and a good site actually! Found some very funny clips - this one especially tickled me: http://videos.streetfire.net/hottestvideos/1/BF0F2FBE-E1F0-4E9E-BE5D-01ADC03D0219.htm Simon.

Have you undone the plate on each side of the plenum which holds the plenum to each cylinder head? (Looking in the side-view picture it looks like one of them is still there...) If so try pushing down on one side rather that twisting side-to-side. Let me know how you get on.... Editted: added picture for clarity:

Hi Craig, The plenum has a rubber-leafed gasket holding into down against the lower plenum so might be well stuck. Push / pull on one side and it should come free. Hope this helps

That is the official Nissan part number - so you could walk into an Main dealer and order them - if you wanted to that is, since they are cheaper elsewhere. This repair harness does require cutting and splicing into your existing loom. If you're soldering - make sure you use high temperature solder to give the joint some extra life. Better still, use a professional crimping tool and crimp the two wires - this will reduce the resistance in the wire (whic his a good thing) (and I'm not talking about bullet connectors here!!!) Simon.

An injector connector pack (of 3 - so you'll be wanting two then!) is available as a 'repair harness', part number: 24079-00002 I got mine from Courtesyparts in the states, came two days later and paid a few quid import tax: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=24079-00002&Category_Code= Hope this helps Simon.

£6K parts, £70K labour I should think!!