vodkashots

to be honest its hard to reply to a thread like this, there are things that could be said to both parties from an out side source. First why the snapped bolt wasn't drilled out and retapped to use the original hole. Second, why the need to go public on it? i feel things are lost in translation. a simple email with the question of why wasn't the snapped bolt rectified to a satisfactory standard, could of been a good start, we all make mistakes in life, and yes i can understand the frustration of finding rust after you have paid to have an inspection. I dont think tit for tat fee's should be applied either as this just makes things awkward and seems just silly personally. i have to admit if i had found someone had put a self tapping screw into my car instead of actually fixing the issue properly id be a bit pee'd too. Not sure how you two want to resolve these issues, but id start by both apologizing to each other personally off the forum and working from there.

nvm you are correct, i was still reading marks post lol, yes it is 27mm not 28.

crank main nut 24mm socket, breaker bar that reaches the cross member on the left hand side of the car (as you look at it), wedge the breaker bar against the cross member, and crank the engine once. not loads, that will undo the nut if the engine is just spinning. or if you have breaker bar long enough to reach the floor, wedge it against the floor.

well once mine is done, ill let you know if i get more than 14mpg lol

thats why you wear latex gloves during nookie lol

when i was working at a garage, i found that swarfega and a nail brush worked wonders, you would never fully get it out, but most of it better than just trying to use your hands on hands.

you need this stuff mate. http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en-GB&q=swarfega&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=11005097217048154785&sa=X&ei=0pXET4iGBYfS8gOhl-XHCg&ved=0CK4BEPMCMAY

should see my war wound from yesterday on the top of my hand, all i was doing was replacing a split hose, you would of thought ive been sticking my hand in a bag of barbed wire lol

did he actually test it as a 300zx and not a 350z?

Z32 was the first engine bay to be designed using CAD which is how they managed to cram everything into the space available, though saying that I still find its one of the easiest cars to work on that I've owned

Just remember to plug those turbos when you take the intercooler pipes off, I had loads of fun getting a 10mm socket out of my turbo housing

my car has more of my blood than i do, if you dont cut your self working on a 300zx you are not working hard enough lol

scratch that daz, this has to be the best camper van ive ever seen

IIRC that was actually a project for a rocket car.

But shes not in the UK? or is she? lol tell her vodkashots said "congrats"

Hose is repaired now, but think i might actually upgrade to some silicone tubing and do as many as i can reach. Next up is manual conversion and get some gears back on the old girl. After that its new rear tyres Repair panels for the rear sills and arches. then off for a spot of welding, followed by a change of looks and a respray though that will most likely be after JAE now.

I have to admit id go mad if i had nothing to throw my dummy about over.

oooh i do like the look of nice shiny new stuff, gets me all tingly in the underwear department. Id suggest getting all old rubber hoses replaced while they are getting changed (speaking from bloody experience :lol:)

Pulled the Gearbox dipstick out today and it was still nice and red from when we filled it up last time, unfortunatly the ODB nissan scantech will only give me the gearbox temp as volts rather than degree's C, but the gearbox isnt showing any solenoid faults apart from the lock up solenoid. Id imagin if the gearbox filter is blocked it wouldnt show any faults, it will most likely be blocked due to the lock up solenoid failure making the lock up clutch in the gearbox break down as sometimes it feels like the torque converter just isnt putting the power down to the wheels, the engine revs up, but there is no significant "pick up" if you know what i mean. Also yes, the gearbox is cooled via the main radiator. so if the gearbox is generating a lot of heat its going to transfer that to the main radiator.

wont have to worry, if all goes to plan, should have my manual conversion here this sunday, then its just going to be a case of how fast can i fit it lol

i had to undo the pipe as it goes around the back of the engine, take off the brake slave cylinder and move that out of the way carefully, i then bent the pipe as it goes around the engine very carefully to a new location to make getting access too it easier. its all on now and not leaking. Gear is still being a turd though. i have a sneaky suspicion that the gear box filter is blocked and thats also adding to my heat on the radiator.

Circled is the pipe that split, omg how much room do i NOT have to work with, ive got the old one off, but getting the new one on is a nightmare as i just dont have the hand space.

dead Any one know if the gear changing problem could be related to a dirty oil filter in the gearbox? im sure with a lock up solenoid fault, the clutch for the lock up in the torque converter is going to be spitting out a load of crap. wouldn't that clog the filter on the gearbox for the oil? not sure why that would stop it changing gear mind you. but just a thought. A am not showing any extra error codes for the other solenoids, just the lock up one thats always been there.

havent fixed that one yet. need to tackle it tomorrow at somepoint. looks like its taxi's and busses for a few weeks till i get my manual box.

thats about the 5th pipe thats burst now. all on the turbos as well.