vodkashots

Have you checked all the injector cables / ptu cables / CAS connectors for the green suff, you need to make sure they are all getting a good contact. also have you checked your timing?

TPS should be set to 0.45v it should be 4.5v WOT (wide open throttle)

trying to help a mate here, symptoms are theses. TT auto. From cold start. Car starts fine, idles fine. when driving cuts out, strong smell of raw petrol, it wont start for a while after, once left it will start and off you go, if the car still isnt up to temp, it will continue cutting out under normal driving conditions until its up to temp, at which point you can drive it around as if nothing is wrong As long as you are driving normally. From hot Car starts fine, idles fine, when driving will cut out on hard accelleration only, strong smell of petrol, takes a bit to start, but once started can drive it normally and it will be fine. Changed MAF for the one out of my car thinking it might be related to the MAF, and also checked the FPR the fuel pipes under the throttle body leavers and the damper area, there is a smell of fuel at the FPR but it looks bone dry, though might change that also for the one off my car, just to see. So question is, would a faulty FPR cause the car to stall out? bearing in mind due to it being an auto it basically means he is stranded until he brings the car to a stop and waits a bit to restart it, as it doesnt "bump" start its self. Or could it be something else?

it would also not go anywhere with the airfilters down there as it would drowned the maf and the engine bay as it drinks all the rain.

UK spec have them on the door pillar where they usually are, Jap sec have them on the actual door until i think its S4 then they where changed to the pillar just like UK spec. US have them on the door its self, but you can leave them plugged in and open the door fully. Its not Series compliant until you get to the later series, its country of sale

i went through my insurance, they will recover the costs from the other side, the market is good at the moment and not many are on their with close to the same modifications as mine, the ones that are on there with mods, are all over 6k anyway.

to be honest, as its still sat outside, i see it every day, im not actually looking forward to splitting it and getting it crushed, i do love it even though its only ever been "fine" for around 3 months since i owned it. the rest of that time was spend either changing the engine / the gear box / manual conversion, or chasing a over heating issue once the thermostat failed. In away im glad its a total loss, but on the other hand its the zed in the colour i always wanted, it was slightly off on the body style i wanted, but i was going to be changing that. even though i know what i have to do to it, i still really don't want to do it lol

Will be breaking it for the parts i want off it, then most likely leaving it as a rolling car with engine and auto box in, it will still be a compelete car, not sure if ill sell it then or actually break it all the way down and get it crushed. I know a few people want wings and front bumper and that, but its getting the time and room to split it to the point of getting the shell crushed. the boot lid is too good a condition for that to go to scrappers, as there just isnt any rust on it, spoilers already been removed as well to a high standard, no point letting it go if someone wants to put it back on the road, the rear is twisted and will take a bit, with so many decent 2+2's out there this would be pointless as a repairs type of car considering the cost involved in putting it back to how it should. - - - Updated - - - :lol: i was thinking that.

Had a phone call today, car is deemed as a total loss. they didn't send the boys around to pick it up as i already told them i wanted to exercise my right of buy back, so they are leaving it with me, will be contacted in the next 2 days to discuss value of the vehicle. Well suppose once i know that, the hunt is on for a adequate replacement

mate i got two auto boxes and a torque converter in my garage i could weight in lol, now if only i had some way of trasporting them to the scrap yard lol

Steam, thats worrying, id be inclind to get that block tested for HG matey, they dont last long, mine over heated to 125 degrees twice and now i have smoke coming from my exhaust :(

Tickets are available, either through the club or via the JAE ticket sale on the website matey. if you pay buy paypal please supply time and date and make sure address if visible on the paypal payment please.

Could be the connectors now suffering from being wet due to the matrix, best check the ECU connectors, are you sure its over heating? might just be faulty signals due to the wiring needing a good dry out and clean.

lift carpet on passenger side of car and remove the wooden board, check ECU and surrounding wires for damp / wet. do you have a curry type smell in the cabin? as that is sometimes associated with a leaky matrix.

OK, i was replying to your overheating issue which from the thread title was what the thread was about lol The alarm issue could be all sorts. but you would probably benefit from putting a different post up about that, as that just got very confusing going from over heating to immobilizer problem like that.

not sure im following you, the alarm will set? do you have a temp alarm?

define "intermittent" need more info bud, could be related if you do have a heater matrix leak as it would be drawing air into the system and also leaking coolant into the cabin.

wasnt you, it had orange rear lights, you have crystal ones, that was also the day i got hit at the rear.

Quick reference main points. Make sure you take it for a 30min drive at least, once you get back, leave it idling and check to make sure it doesnt over heat, check the rear sills for rust, check the front inside the engine bay strut top weld joins for signs of rust. check for smoke, check it drives in a straight line, listen for any strange engine noises, bring the revs up to 2500 should give away if big end bearings are knocking, it should idle between 700 and 800 and sound smooth and not lumpy With a manual box, make sure it doesnt grind when putting it in gear. then just check the usual stuff when buying a car, tax, mot, cam belt change date, tread depth. And welcome to the forum.

Im not sure bud, mine already came with fitting kit and everything needed so never had to faff around with it.

i cut through the clip, was so much easier, then get some T clamps for the new ones, job done.

yeah i had a giggle with me mate about that, id get all the decent stuff from all, transfer them on to one, and sell the others LOL

flipping heck, well wait till i find out what the insurance says lol, might not have room for a 2+0 but if it saved it from going to the scrapper so be it. id defo pay the 5k to 6k asking price for that, having seen it in the flesh and seen the work thats gone into it, most certainly worth it.

Pm'ed back, added details to the paid for list :D

this is for big C lol