vodkashots

sounds more like a dry joint, as once it heats up the contact will become less as the join expands, take the back off, find the on switch remove the old solder thats on clean the area and apply some new solder see if that fixes it. well thats if your good with a soldering iron. oh and dont do it while its on or plugged in

im not boosting, jeff said it may be warped heads, but in all honesty everything ive read about over heating, if its HG then it usually over heats rapidly. Even when i did boost, the temp still only crept up slowly rather than quickly and im not losing coolant? which i would of thought i would if i was leaking combustion gases into the cylinders really hope its not HG though. other wise i may as well just break the car. Seems more a cooling issue though as its not a rapid climb in heat, its a slow steady one, are there any home HG fail test kits out there to test it your self?

No need to give him bad publicity, he seems to be doing just fine on his own.

easy plug and play afare, real issue is what you do with the power box :)

plus they make the car at night look sexier with white light than that horrible faded yellow look the OEM ones give

Now i may be wrong here but Well he cared enough to put that whole reply in his add. I don't think he realises that its got nothing to do with jealousy, its more to do with the fact that most know the history of the car and that its well over priced. and looks like the general public are also aware that its over priced, hence its still forsale. a highly modded car does not necessarily mean it commands a higher price, if anything it commands a lower price as its someone else's taste and will need to be altered to the taste of the person buying, And the cost Can and usually does run into thousands of pounds, a well looked after stock example with lower mileage is more appealing to buyers than one thats been modded to someone else's taste, when are these people ever going to realise that. I have however had to remove the link as per previous posts. but im sure by now everyone is fully aware of the car we are talking about. (15k cost)

i have the viscous, (also the electric thats mounted on the front of the A/C rad) ive already changed the clutch to see if that was the issue, i also have the shroud on and inplace, both top and bottom parts. Im thinking its more radiator orientated and rad cap than anything else. ive pretty much changed everything. the rad also came off my black zed as the one originally on my blue one had a leak after id changed the engine. so ended up putting the other rad on, that had sat dry in my garage for a good year.

from what zerocooldel told me, the engine had been sat for about a year, as i thought the same, another reason i changed the water pump as i thought the fins on it had corroded, with one of the engines i have in the garage, where the thermostat has been removed, its built up like a layer of rust covering the top of the water, bit like ice but rust instead. Need to get a new radiator i think and give the whole system a good flush. does anyone know the best way of doing this? Andy, the ECU ive got thats chipped and socketed has your name on it? did you used to chip and socket them?

about a month ago (i think) i took the children and me mrs over to a friends house who i hadn't seen in ages, when i pulled onto his drive the temp gauge on my zed shot up to the redzone, i switched the engine off and could hear the water boiling and being forced into the overflow bottle. Got out of the car and looked, sure enough the overflow was emptying all over his nice clean drive. so had to get the car towed back home. When i finally got the chance to go over it, i refilled the rad and warmed the car up, she started over heating again, not rapidly but enough to know that it wasn't going to stop once it got to 100c, so i switched the engine off, and checked the rad, cold at the top and bottom. Having a spare thermos in the garage, i went and tested it to make sure it was ok. (to test a thermos stat, boil the kettle and stick the thermos in a point glass, carefully poor the hot water into the pint glass - not too quickly or you could shatter the glass - and watch to see how much and how fast the thermos opens) Having tested the replacement thermostat and happy with it, i drained the car and took the pipe off housing the thermostat, and went and checked the old one, sure enough the thermostat had failed it would only partly open. so changed the thermostat, refitted the water pipe, and filled the system up again. anyway, test time, engine came up to temp and all seemed good, thermostat opened and the rad filled with hot water, on idle all seemed good so i bleed the air out of the system and took her for a test drive. she started over heating again, so i pulled over and noticed steam coming from under the bonnet at the battery area, popped the hood, i had blown the by pass pipe off the turbo, so quickly refitted it and limped her home. I then changed the pipe and put a better clip on it. refilled the system and took her back out for another test drive after id got her up to temp while sitting there idling. still overheating. As i had a strange rattle from my water pump when i replaced the engine, i went and dug the new water pump out of the garage and changed that with the help of steams who popped over. Again i refilled the system and bleed it, it still over heated when driving on either a duel carriageway, or motor way, but not when driving at 30mph in residential areas. Next up was the timing, when jeff did my timing at JAE, we got it to 15 BTDC yet the CAS unit was all the way over, thinking that that couldn't be right, i remember that i changed the ECU for one i took of my black breaker ages ago that was a UK spec auto, same as my car. the ECU i took out was for a Japspec auto chipped and mapped for higher boost on stock injectors, i changed the ECU over when i had gear box issues. Anyway, i noticed when i put the old ECU back in, the timing needed changing again, so out came the timing gun, got the car up to temp and checked, 30 on the crank pulley mark. adjusted the CAS unit accordingly which in turn brought the CAS back to sitting almost dead center on the retaining nuts and showing 15 btdc, this also cleared up my mysterious misfire on idle. car was running a lot smoother then, so think the UK spec ecu was giving false readings. took the car out for another test to see what was going on, driving around town everything is fine, the moment you get it on a motorway the temp starts creeping up again, Ive tested the rad cap and that seems to be leaking Air into the overflow. Current status of the car is, im no longer drinking coolant (though i think that was airlocks to be more honest) as i can no longer put any more coolant mixture in, if the car is sat still she doesnt over heat, when driving i have to have the heater on 35 with hot air blowing out (and its very hot air) or the car starts to over heat, if i pull up at traffic lights, sometimes the heater starts blowing cold air and the temp starts to raise, the moment i give it 1500 revs, i get hot air again and the temp starts coming back down. So far the car will stay at around 82 to 85 degrees (nissan data scan) when i get cold air on my heater set at 35, the temp creeps up to around 95 97, if i join a motor way and cruse at 60 the car will sit at around 92, but the moment i come off the motor way and start town driving, the temp will sore to around 117. which isn't good, the electric fan will be on at this point, and if i pull over, she will slowly go back down to around 86 as long as i have the heater on. The only parts i haven't changed on the cooling system is the radiator or the rad cap. though i do need to change the rad cap as its not holding pressure which i think may be adding to the problems. Other than the radcap, the only thing i can think of that is causing my over heating is a clogged radiator. it no longer over heats rapidly, i have no strange smell coming from my tailpipes, im not loosing coolant, changed the thermostat and water pump, replaced both by pass pipes, checked rad cap that seems to be leaking air into the overflow. and all this from a failed thermostat. i have no mayo in my coolant and none in my engine oil. (if you want to test if your cap is holding pressure, with the engine running and up to temp, remove the overflow pipe off the radiator near the cap, and put some spit over it, if it blows bubbles at you, then its not holding pressure) (there ya go groover, i heard you missed my essays:lol:)

well its not loosing coolant now either and no longer need to top up constantly so definitely air was still in the system.

thanks matey, need to stick a overheating thread up, its still doing it though not as fast this time. tested my rad cap the other day and thats actually leaking so most likely not helping in the slightest and i think that replacement fan clutch i put on isn't up to the job either.

its ok bud, just had a real nightmare of it thats all. wish i could of got on the forum sooner, was supposed to get on last night but was just so mentally drained i couldn't think straight.

first off you do not need to remove the cambelt. step by step guide coming up first drain the coolent system. undo front water pipes remove the throttle body pipes to gain more room remove the radiator remove the fan and clutch from the front of the water pump remove the alt belt, A/C belt, Water pump belt from the lower crank pulley Remove the PTU from the front of the cambelt covers and unclip the temp sensor, temp sender plugs from the top water pipe, remove the CAS connector and move the loom out the way Now remove the 2 front water pipes Remove the top cambelt covers You will need to remove the lower crank pulley, if you have an auto and are struggling to get the bolt on the crank pulley undone, using a breaker bar and 27mm socket, put the socket on the nut and wedge the breaker bar against the cross member of the car on the left hand side as you look at the engine, now with key in ignition, turn it as if starting the engine and let it crank for a split second to crack the bolt to start undoing. (do not KEEP cranking as if trying to start the car the moment you hear it stop) Using a pulley puller, remove the lower crank pulley and then remove the lower cambelt cover You will now have access to the water pump bolts, there are 5 in total, make sure you remove the old gunk used to seal the water pump and water pipes from the front of the engine. put a towel over your cambelt at the bottom of the engine when removing the water pump as when removed, it will empty the remainder of what was left in the engine and you dont want coolent on your cambelt. Use a good liquid gasket rated for -50 to +250 degrees and apply a thin slug around the contact face of the new water pump making sure to fill the channels in the water pump and then put on then put on the car and bolt in a zigzag pattern to the correct torque Putting it back together is a reversal of taking it apart Things that You should change while stripped Thermostat 2 x rubber water pipes that go from the top of the block to the top water pipe and if you haven't had your cambelt changed in a while, do your cambelt (jeffTT has put a cambelt change post up) Hope that helps You will need a breaker bar for this job, so its easier to crack the bolts holding the water pipes on. make sure you use a OEM water pump and OEM thermos and make sure the thermos goes on with the correct orientation. once the cars been put back together, i suggest waiting 24 hours before refilling the system to allow the sealant to dry. When filling with coolent, make sure the front of the car is raised, top up with your mixture of coolent and demineralised water, the system takes 10liters to fill from empty and a bit more. you want to fill it till the radiator is full, then start the car with the rad cap off and the little bleed screw undone on the left of the rad (if you still have a OEM rad), put the air con on at full temp and full blow, and top up as necessary. If you have a OEM temp gauge id suggest getting a aftermarket one installed. any air in the system will cause spikes in the temperature, small air leaks into the system from incorrectly done up pipes can also cause air to leak into the system and cause over heating. the idea is to get all air as much as possible out of the coolant system. also do not fill up via the over flow bottle, although it will be a good idea to fill the overflow bottle up to the HI mark so the coolant system and work effectively. also make sure you put your fan shroud back on correctly as this aids the viscous fan pull air through the radiator when the car is stood still in traffic.

reopened the thread, forgot it was still closed. If anyone needs to PM me, can you do it with in the next 30 mins or so, as im not going to be at my mums much longer. though shes said i can come back tonight and get online for a bit.

congratulations on becoming a Ian. im currently fighting to keep my children as well which hasn't been fun, had what i was hoping was going to be the final court date yesterday but turned out a major document that was supposed to arrive to our solicitors had only been given to the judge. so its now been put back again while we go over the new document.

hay ya guys, had a real crappy time of it, had a new contract that went pear shaped after the work was done and monies owed not been paid to me for work done. Ive messaged the appropriate people, and its not been fun not being able to get on the forum, if my name has appeared at the bottom of the screen its because I've tried to get on on my phone, but it just kept diverting me to the 3 network page can not be accessed page which is very frustrating. all those i needed to contact have been updated with my contact details, im currently in the works of trying to sort out a more permanent Internet access so i can get back online again properly. I get free access to facebook from my phone but not 300zx.co.uk Im currently on my mums PC at her house but not sure how long for or if im going to be able to get access again soon after. but hoping to sort something out tomorrow so only time will tell on that one.

if this thread doesnt inspire i dont know what does http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=285498&highlight=rusty+legs

lol

that was how tatty it used to be though daz. oh and what the new engine sounded like with the mongoose on. (click image for video)

its not my taste of front bumper, but yeah hes done a cracking job considering it was tweed interior, i must of done the engine change good then as its still running :lol:

2 years on, complete change and its still got the same gear knob and hole in the dash lol

if there was a "thanks for this useful post" button id press it lol

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1991-NISSAN-300-ZX-2-2-Black-/200655187882?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2eb7fb2faa thought i recognized the plate on the rear, then see the photo of when it was silver, and its the same bloody car. lol :) These pictures are from when i had it just after id changed the engine.

Or just set it to landscape mode if your not up to speed on all your settings just yet as this will remove depth of field (the blurring of distant or near objects dependant on what its focusing on), and should give infinite focus. Depth of field Infinite focus

when the oil seal was replaced did they remove the oil seal bracket and replace it like that, or just remove old oil seal and replace? as a new one can still leak if installed incorrectly