plazmaduck

Are you talking about the prop outlet to be blocked Steams? Terry: Is yours a UK spec? I'm tempted to change the whole lot whilst I'm at it...

As the title suggests, I'm after a replacement clutch for a 1992 UK Spec TT Z32. It seems a real minefield out there with the variants, but I'm just after a standard spec clutch kit to fit my car. Also any pitfalls when removing the gearbox would be much appreciated :) Thanks in advance.

Ah thanks Tudor, good to know it's doing what it ought to :)

Not that I want to rag my Zed from cold, but I was curious to know if there is an inhibitor when the car is cold to stop the turbo's cutting in? I know there is a safety mode, but the car seems like the turbo's don't cut in until the car is fully warm. The difference in power is very noticeable! The boost gauge reads correctly (as recommended in the buyers guide). Thanks for any help given.

I posted about the smell of exhaust fumes coming in when the window is open, seems like it's a very common problem judging by how many others left comments

Still, I'd have to ask the question, why some days it seems ok, others not?

Well, I think that it must be slipping, it's just the other possibilities of 'why' that I need to look at. I read Jeff at Zedworlds posts elsewhere suggesting that the hydraulic flexi tube to the slave could have crushed in on itself - I've had this on brakes before where the pressure isn't released when the pedal is realeased. Other thoughts were to change the hydraulic fluid or look at the adjustment (wherever this is done) for the pedal.

Bump

The chirping sounds like the fan belt slipping slightly - both my zeds did this and as the battery charges up theres less drag on the alternator to cause the slip. The Rushing sound, seems exactly like a fault I had on a 3 litre supra, turned out it was the head gasket although it never gave any other symptoms other than the noise. Mine also went as the car warmed up. I guess what had happened was a slight leak from a cylinder to a waterway letting air into the water. Guess it warming up maybe sealed the gap?

Thanks for the replies. There is no smoke upon start up in the mornings, or under harsh acceleration etc. The only thing I have noticed is that when I did a 200 mile trip, a few times as I slowed to around 5 miles an hour for red lights, there would be a small plume of smoke which would clear after a second. The engine has done 143k and is as sweet as a nut apart from this...

On the rear bumper after a few miles after being cleaned, these appear. Originally my first thoughts were that it could be oil, but when I wash the bumper with cold water, it doesn't smear like you'd expect from oil, it comes away more as a dust... Does it sound possible that the engine is just running too rich? When driving the car it does smell of unburnt or rich fuelling. Any thoughts would be appreciated :)

As the title suggests, at times I think the clutch is slipping. On any other car I've had, I've been able to categorically say one way or the other for definite whether the clutch is slipping or not. Not so on my Zed. One day it seems fine, another it doesn't feel quite right, esp when the turbo's kick in. I did wonder at one time if the wheels were spinning rather than clutch slip, but I guess not! I think the clutch has only done around 40k. I know that the system is slightly different on these cars, in so far that there is some form of servo in the system. Any thoughts?

Cheers Paul, would it be the 2 pulse wires on the four pin connector? I've tried hooking up to those (tried both ways around) but no joy. By reverse polarity, I'm taking it to mean the third option on my wiring diagram, in the first pictures?

Ok, the lock on the passenger door doesn't lock the drivers door. You can see in the pics though there definitely is an actuator in the drivers door! The 4 wires in the door pic above, go to the solenoid - instead of a switch on the door lock, the mechanism relies on the solenoid being pushed in by a rod which then sends a pulse to to passenger side. Any further thoughts? Surely even just by hooking my unit up with it's pulse would lock at the very least, the passenger door?

What about on a UK spec car? That's what I've got. There's definitely a solenoid fitted in the drivers door. Fair enough it may not have had one from standard (can't comment either way on that) but it HAS had an aftermarket alarm fitted. I find it impossible to believe that they would have remote window closure but wouldn't bother with the doors?! That would be very stupid lol!

Sorry - that should read as '2 blue wires'...

Update: Found the central Locking fuse to be intermittent! I am now at the stage where I have the two wires from the C/L unit which switch polarity when the lock/unlock buttons are pressed. Seems it's not going to be as simple as just connecting the wires into the four pin plug - any ideas on what may need to be cut or modified? Both doors definitely have C/L actuators in. The 2 white wires switch polarity when the doorkey is turned but no joy when I connect my new unit up :/ Cheers for any help :)

The car clearly did have RCL as the clifford unit is hooked up to it, plus there's even a window closure box. I'm guessing once the blown fuse is located the original job should now be quite easy...

Paul, it's not possible to try atm, the fuse is proving elusive to locate - I have tested all 21 in the drivers footwell, checked both fuseboxes under the bonnet. I'm at a loss now where to look! The Radio, interior lights and central locking have all died. Are there any other places to look for fuses? Help!!! lol

Cheers Paul. I've read elsewhere on the forum that it needs a negative pulse, which will be my next thing to try...I just found it odd that there is a positive pulse there when the key is turned in the lock. I'll try a meter across the 2 pulse wires and see what that reveals, maybe as you say, the polarity is reversed each time, I just assumed that negative would be connected all the time, guess not!! Thanks Pete.

Theres a solenoid in there for locking though? It's identical to my last zed for wiring - this one I've got now has a clifford concept 40 alarm ( not now used) so it's definitely worked in the past for remote central locking. I figured this would be the best place to hook the unit up as all connections are in the one place ;) The fuse that's blown is for the central locking. Thanks for the help so far, I'm sure there must be others that have done what I'm doing?

Hi, I'm after help with fitting a remote central locking unit. Seems simple enough, but I cannot get the pulse to lock/unlock the doors. I have taken the drivers door card off and located the four wire connector, one wire is positive, one negative, then two pulse wires. I have measured with a meter when I turn the key in the lock, and the two centre wires get a positive pulse in turn if locking/unlocking. Putting 12v directly on these does not have the same result! I'm lost now, but hope fully someone will be able to help with the diagrams below - The unit is working and happily switching the indicators! Any help would be great :) Also, I now need to know the location of the fusebox as one fuse has blown :(

Ok the tailgate is now firmly tight when closed. The smell doesn't seem half as bad unless the car is 'ragged' a bit. I think it may be running a bit rich as the tailpipes are covered in dry black residue - unless this is just from cold starting?

No-one at all?

You might be onto something there, my tailgate doesn't seem to be very tight to the rubber seal when its closed, might be a nice easy cure :)