DTA (UK)

If you have no luck with them give me a call. I stock Xtreme White H3C (55W) bulbs. These are pure white with a slight blue tint to it. £15/pair. Regards, Dan

Or you could just buy H3C bulbs .... from me! ;)

I lived there for 3 years (from just before the handover in '97 to March 2000). Love it dearly and would go back any day! Used to live in what is know as "Midlevels" on HK Island which was just above Lan Kwai Fong (loads of bars/restaurants). If you want a central location I'd either look at staying in Kowloon (superb view of the HK skyline at night and only a Star Ferry crossing away from HK Island) or somewhere in Wanchai (HK Island). There is a good hotel near "Pacific Place" (massive shopping centre) in Admiralty but I've forgotten the name of it ... The only other ones I can highly recommend are the Mandarin in Central (quite expensive) and the Marriott (also in Central). To travel into HK from the airport take the "Airport Express" train - it is ultra fast, cheap and convenient - if you haven't already got transport arranged. This will also allow you to check in for your flight out of HK at the train station. For getting around HK I highly recommend you take the subway - know as the MTR - it is quite possibly the cleanest, most efficient subway system I've ever been on anywhere in the world! Taxis are also cheap and can be hailed by flagging it down on the street. For taking in the sights I recommend you visit "The Peak" - great spot overlooking all of HK Island from the top of the mountain. Take the fenicular train from Central up to the Peak. When there you should go to the observation deck (weather permitting) and have a drink/meal at the Peak Cafe (across from the main building). Another must-do experience is to take the Star Ferry across Victoria Bay. It costs next to nothing and is a great way to cross. For evening entertainment visit Lan Kwai Fong, Wanchai or Causeway Bay - great bars/restaurants. If you had more than a day there I'd recommend you book a boat trip to Lantau Island to visit the world's biggest seated buddha - innitially not my cup of tea but very impressive nonetheless. Other attractions worty of a visit are Stanley Market (superb bargains on clothes and souvenirs) and Ocean Park. Of course there is now also a Disney Land Hong Kong! I could go on and on ... Hope you have a good time! Regards, Dan

Yep, I'm yer man for polished dial rings! Unfortunately they are currently out of stock - next batch is due in about 4 weeks. Am also experimenting with a slightly different design - will put a pic up when I've got the prototype done. Don't let the fact that I'm currently out of stock stop you placing an order - I'll put you on the books and contact you again when I've got your rings to arrange payment and delivery. Regards, Dan

Hi Jason, The following are the belts which I supply with our UD pulleys: TT UK: aircon: 4pk925, water: 4pk990, powersteering: 4pk888 TT JDM: aircon: 4pk925, water: 4pk975, powersteering: 4pk888 As you can see only the waterpump belt is different for a UK versus JDM Z32. I know GATES have reassigned part numbers to their old range of belts but I do not know what the new parts are. I would have offered to send you the above belts but unfortunately I haven't got any in stock. HTH Dan

Hi Andy, I'm sorry but I haven't had time to dig up the article I have on dim-dip and how to by-pass it. When I do I'll post it up. To answer your other question - how to split the headlight - I would refrain from putting them in the oven at all, far to great a risk you'll cook it too far and ruin the plastic backing, etc. My recommendation is to use a hairdryer (my wife wasn't too pleased I used her super-duper all-singing all-dancing hair dryer but she got over it ... :wack: ) Strip the headlight down as far as possible and then use the hairdryer to go all along the edge to soften the "sticky stuff". I had to use a screwdriver to wiggle the glass off the plastic. Persistence will pay off so stick with it ... It took me about 20 minutes to split one headlight after stripping it back. To reseal the units you can either use the hairdryer to heat up the existing sticky stuff (I did this) or add new sticky stuff (sorry about using this "technical" term - I can't for the life of me think of what it's actually called ... :headvswal ) Make sure you get a good solid and continuous seal all around the headlight to prevent moisture from seaping in through the cracks. I hope this has given you an idea of what to expect. Regards, Dan

HID kits should be straight forward to fit, provided you have been given the right HID bulbs! For both UK and JDM Z32's you'll need the HID bulb type to be H3 - anything else will not fit! Assuming you've got the correct HID bulb, fitting it *should* be straight forward - depending on the kit you buy. I can only really talk about our own HID kits (Interpower X3) and they are superb! I sell quite a few of them and have them fitted to a huge range of cars (ranging from a Ford Ka, Mazda MX5 to Lamborghini Diablo, Ferrari F355 and Honda NSX). Our kit is completely plug-n-play and takes about 10 minutes (either side) to fit. Very briefly, installation consists of the following steps: 1. Remove halogen bulb 2. Install HID bulb 3. Connect the "power" wires to the existing Z32 wiring loom 4. Connect HID bulb to ballast 5. Done! There is an issue with dim-dip on UK-spec Z32's but there are work-arounds for this (do a search on this forum). Light output is measured by the amount of "lumens". The higher the lumens, the more light the bulb puts out. The light colour is expressed in "degrees Kelvin". As a rule of thumb, the higher the Kelvin rating, the bluer the light and the lower the lumen rating. In plain English this means that the bluer the light, the less light is projected. It is therefore advisable to install bulbs upto 6000K. If you want to see what these different colours look like in the real world have a look at new Mercs and Vauxhals. Mercs tend to use 4300K HID kits and Vauxhals 6000K. The former is much whiter and the latter has a distinctive blue tint to it. With our HID kits there is no need to run separate power leads from the battery or to add an inline fuse - all the technology is contained within the ballast. Incidentally, our kits are standard equipment on a lot of new cars (GM, Ford and various Asian makes such as Hyundai and Kia), which is testiment to their quality. They are also E-marked and legal in the UK and EU. One major consideration to bear in mind before installing any HID kit is to clean the inside of the headlights - this will significantly improve the light projection. Again, instructions on how to do this can be found elsewhere on the forum - just do a search. I hope the above has been informative - if not, or you want to discuss it some more, feel free to contact me on the number provided below or fire off a PM! Regards, Dan

Hi Leigh! Did they let you leave Russa in one piece? Need to speak to you mate - will call you later. Regards to Lucy, Dan

LOL! I have an order for purple Samco hose going through at the moment and have been waiting for well over two months now! Their "28 day" policy is absolute non-sense. The order is for a customer but if I have any left then I'll let you know (I ordered 4, 6 & 8mm vacuum hose). Dan

For the love of ... don't use WonderWheels! :wack: It is one of the most acidic cleaners on the market and has the dubious honours of having knackered copious amounts of alloys. Yes it works a treat, yest it is widely available, yes it is cheap ... but you may as well pour battery acid on your alloys - same result! What you want is a cleaner that is as close to pH neutral as you can. The one I recommend (and use extensively myself) is Meguiar's Hot Rims All Wheel Cleaner. Requires a little more elbow grease but is almost pH neutral. I really can't stress how important it is to get a non-acidic alloy cleaner (especially if you have split rims!) I am in the process of becoming a Meguiar's reseller (should be a done deal next week) and will have all their products at my disposal. I'm taking a variety of products to JAE so you're welcome to pick stuff up at the show. Just beware that I [DTA] won't have a trade stand but will be on the Club stand instead (not officially trading of course ... ;)) Dan

What colour are you after? If Smithy can't help then let me know as I can get hold of many different colours. ATB Dan

An actual sign I spotted spotted at the fruit/veg section at a Safeway supermarket outside Washington DC in the late '80s: "Please don't fondle the fruit, ask for Gina" ;)

Just pm Smithy - he does a complete set to replace most of the common vacuum hoses. HTH Dan

If you are serious about getting the car sorted properly and are willing to travel some distance then I suggest you take it to DTA-Motorsport in The Netherlands. They are now widely recognised as the best tuning/servicing company for 300ZX's (and some other cars) in the EU. You can get their contact details on http://www.dta-motorsport.com. HTH Dan

I also take off the "wrong" connector and replace it with a pair of terminal blocks for you. That way all you need to do is cut the old bulb holder off, insert the wires into the supplied terminal block and you're good to go! BTW, the reason the clear side repeater has a different connector is because it is officially for a Nissan Cedric ... not a 300ZX.

Give me a call on 07044016586 - I have recently got these back into stock (after a 4 month waiting period). Price is £22 delivered and they come with silvertec bulbs, fitting instructions and the good feeling that you've bought something from a trader on this forum! ;) Regards, Dan

Jay, I deal a lot with Ferrari & NSX owners with Antera wheels and it is "highly" recommended that you get a professional company to remove the chrome trim as you're likely to knacker the locking mechanism without the correct tools. A decent alloy shop should be able to help you. I now know of at least 7 owners with knackers 309's because they had a go at it themselves. Dan

Cleaning the inside of the headlights will ALWAYS make a difference. If nothing else your light beams will be far more focussed (as dirt build-up scatters light) giving the impression of more light output onto the road. As for HID kits - yes, plenty of people have done this and the result has always been positive. Some of my customers have even bought additional kits for their other cars! Installation is dead easy and will probably only take about 15~20 minutes (it's the cleaning up of the headlights that takes the longest). I [DTA-UK] sell a lot of HID kits (all bulb fitments available). If you want to have a chat about them give me a call on 07044 016586 - I'd be more than happy to answer any questions you may have. Our kits may be a little more expensive than others but they are one of the best kits you can buy (this has been independently confirmed by various consumer magazines both in Europe and the US). Our kits are E-marked, carry full CE certification and are fully road legal in the UK and Europe. Regards, Dan

Thanks for the offer Trevor, but we'll probably have five of our own [DTA] cars on the stand ...

Easy way to figure this one out: Open bonnet and look at the bar just behind the headlights. They have stamped a large "R" and "L" into it. Now you know which side the alloys go on ;) HTH Dan

Rodders is on about a "ConZult", also known as a PC based diagnostic kit. This kit connects to your car and displays, in real-time, all the sensor feedback. It allows you to run various diagnostic checks as well as data logging. In a nutshell, this kit allows you to diagnose problems on your car. The Nissan "consult" (note different spelling) is Nissan's proprietary diagnostic equipment which main dealers use to diagnose problems. This kit is (a) very expensive (several thousand pounds) and (b) very user-unfriendly and most technicians wouldn't know what the feedback is all about anyway. We [DTA-Motorsport] developed a very user friendly PC-based version which does everything the consult does and then some. It is a very worthwhile piece of kit to own and if you spend some time with it you'll gain great incite into the workings of your car. It can be used on any Nissan with the same diagnostic (OBD-1) port as our 300's. It costs £275 and comes with everything you need to get started straight away. I will be doing ConZult demonstrations at JAE so come over and have a look. we [DTA] will not be having a stand this year but will be based on the Club's stand. Regards, Dan

Hi Nick, I've uploaded the files and proceeded with testing - got an error. I'm taking this off-line so as not to bore everyone else with the trials and tribulations of my ineptitude as a web designer (novice or otherwise). I'll pm you the error code. Thanks again for your help. Regards, Dan

Thanks very much Nick - I'm about to upload the files and test them. :dance: Best regards, Dan

Since the car only has 40K miles on it, it may be conceivable that either it is an electrical problem (ie at the connector) that's causing the problem or the faulty injector has gotten clogged. If you are going to be taking the injector out by removing the plenum it may be adviseable to take all the injectors to be professionally cleaned. They can then also be bench tested which will show whether they are still in top condition or require replacing. This is something I will be getting done in the not too distant future. HTH Dan

Hi all, I was wondering if any of the web designers may have some time to help me understand how to create forms (ie contact, feedback, etc) using dreamweaver. I need the form to validate the fields, submit the information to a specific e-mail address in a clear format but not invoke the client's e-mail programme to send the form. I've not been using dreamweaver very long and this is making my head hurt :headvswal . Many thanks in advance! Dan