fry1

If you tighten the belt and it's still squealing its most likely that your belt is stretching and is fooked so replace it before it goes snap

And a water pump while your in there

None of the lifters I had were faulty due to debris, 1 had an oval round where the little ball seals against the piston, and 2 were just sticking due to the build up of glazed oil on them, several had the tiny holes in the top washers half blocked.

Andrew page can supply one if you have a one near you

Out of interest where are you getting it polished and how much if you dont mind me asking ?

Or if your feeling like a gamble you can take them all out and clean them, I did this as time and spending 2 days cleaning and polishing them was all I could afford, I did have 3 that refused to seal properly on checking them after cleaning I binned those and cleaned up a few more spare second hand ones.

Rear hubs from the 300zx na, are all you can use from the z, you're best off with a set of hubs from a s14/14a

Yup the diagnosis is probably correct, I found a bit of synchro stuck to my drain plug, looked it up in the service manual to confirm it and mine also does not like fast changes in 4th. Think you need to speak to him first and see what he says

Are the 2 odd shape ones from the timing back plate, do they have a groove in the outer edge ?

was hoping to get around 500, and not having a central intake would make fmic easier to sort out, still not not sure if z1 tubs which are a direct swap and claim 500 would be enough or if I should stick with first plan and go for 2 t28bb core (sorry for thread hijack)

Just an off set standard filter at the mo, but going to a pair of t28's and more likely than not twin intakes one maf on one intake as above, hence curiosity

Right I see where your coming from now, I don't see it making a huge difference but if thats the advice given I would follow it

Hope you get the box sorted soon then you can start playing with the rest of the car

Just curious, as I am not sure what difference it could make with regards what the tubby will suck in, if its a straight pipe and its only a short difference it should make little to no difference, I have been running un equal lengths on standard intake for 6months now although it is not with this setup its run fine at a constant 15psi, although with standard afm this may have bugger all to do with regards the dummy maf

why are equal lengths so important ?

I think it would be best to replace the whole lot while your in that far, unless your sure everything is going to last a while, ie belt tensioner, idlers' water pump accessory belts etc, you would kick your self if your water pump went in a couple of months

Try courtesy parts they may take your money http://www.courtesyparts.com/

I used an after market cooler to replace the original which fell apart, but i made the hoses up from 15mm (ish) diameter hose rated to 10bar and a couple of fittings from a tractor to connect to the cooler cause I'm a cheap skate

It doesn't quite work like that, pressure drop on a reduction of diameter over a very short length is not that great compared to a reduction in diameter over a greater length if you see what i mean, I would stick with the same internal diameter as original on the long run.

Mne has no smoke on tick over but on over run after some stick its real bad, will know better once the engine is pulled out.

Shhhhhh I already left I'm aiming for 500 on standard vg30 internals so I may be able to give you a better answer in 6 months time

Flame suit on Soarer if you want reliability and something a tad easier to work on

Is it burning oil or are the tubby's sucking it out? have you done a compression test at all ?

Nothing wrong with the block I am keeping it for a spare though for when mine blows and it will

Turbo oil seals just about gone, if your round before the engine is pulled I will take you out and you tell me if you think its quick. Does your zed drive ? do you not fancy a manual swap ??