John Dixon

I'd hazard a guess at the alternator being dodgy. If it's working, voltage should be >13v. Also, I think that the battery light usually comes straight off the regulator in the alternator, so would be a good place to start looking.

I'm Midlands too

Just did this to mine, and yes it's a straight swap as long as both are series I or series II. As for the fog light indicator, never thought to check it, but with the pod out, it should be easy to trace the track on the circuit from the bulb to the connector.

Cool, cheers Mark

Excellent, cheers guys. Anyone know what the part numbered as 41003E is ?? Maybe a packet of copper grease or something I really need ?!

Yeah, that'd be excellent, cheers Glen.

Got my R34 callipars today (cheers Jay & Andy). Can anyone who's got 'em tell me if there's any retaining spring across the back of the pads like the stock ones, or is it just the 2 pins that run across ? Cheers

Think only one arrow on the driver's one lights up. Either that or mine are knackered too!

There's one for sale Here loads of other good stuff on there too.

It's not too hard to swap the dails over, they unscrew as separate pieces from the rear when you remove the plastic cover at the front.

I blew a new shape M5 recently which was a nice surprise. Driver didn't think so though, wouldn't even look over when we stopped!

Andy, Got the speedo's yesterday, cheers. Top notch service again.

There's a simple circuit you can build to show when the stock det sensor is active. Think the diagram is on the zhome?? Site. I'll try and find the link later

Rob, Spoke to NGK some more and reckon I'm just going to stick to a 6 grade for now. For some reason the US standard plug is a 5, UK is a 6. As my mods are just ECU and boost controller a 7 may be a bit OTT. Do you reckon your supplier could get PFR6B-11B? The number for the copper plug is ZFRxF-11 if anyone's interested.

There's a post in the TT net vote to FAQ about alternative DET sensor locations. There's one that's on the back of the block which is reckoned to be as good as the stock location: FAQ

Been looking into this quite a bit recently as I figured you should go a grade colder (ie 7) if you're running higher boost etc. NGK say one grade for every additional 50-100bhp as a guide. Problem is that for the TT the correct plug is PFR6B-11B (platinum) it is ONLY available in 5 or 6 rating and the 6 is now discontinued. On this plug, the "B" on the end means this is a special design where the electrodes protrude further into the chamber than normal. The difference is quite significant apparently. There is NO NGK alternative plug in the iridium range that has this type of firing tip. The BKR7EIX-11 is the closest match apparently or BPR7EIX-11, but I haven't been able to find that listed anywhere. Apparently the next best to the PFR6B-11B is an NGK japanese copper plug which you can get from Ginn in the US. I'd guess being copper you'd have to change them more often and use a smaller gap due to the larger electrode diameter producing a less powerful spark. The protrusion is supposed to be the closest to the 11B that's available. I havent been able to get a part number.

Might be worth checking the HICAS arms and / or ball joints aren't loose, this gives some free play on the rear wheels that you can feel if you jack it up and try to move the wheel side to side. Exactly the same as a worn track rod end on the front. I've got one of the ball joints away on mine, but haven't got a new one yet so don't know how hard it is to change.

Well, when I say pretty quick, I mean about 1000miles but that's mainly driven hard over back roads. TBH, it's worth the sacrafice, you won't believe the difference in the handling - feels almost like a big hot hatch instead of a sloppy old barge!

I've got blitz springs on mine and front camber is about -3° at the minute. Wears the inside off the tyres pretty quick. I'm waiting on a camber correction kit as well before I get it all set up.

Most people recommend Redline MT90 I think. Don't use the AMS synthetic stuff, mine felt awful when I changed to it.

My car's about due a new set of plugs, and I was wondering about going to a slightly colder plug seeing as it's tuned a bit. Anyone tried running 7 grade plugs (Thinking NGK BPR7EIX-11 Iridium).

I should have a set of J-Spec series II speedo's with the chip already fitted spare soon. Mail / PM me if you're interested.

Tried one that was in a car at grasshopper when I was there, felt 10 times better! Think it was from the Z Centre. Going to order one this week.

Anyone know where there's a good rolling road in the midlands? Have tried Aldon automotive, but theirs only does 250bhp @ wheels. Must be one around here somewhere !?

Anyone else tried this, one of mine has some play in it, so I'm planning on doing it soon. The one I'm talking about is the one that the HICAS arm fits onto that's pressed into the hub carrier. Just wondering how difficult it is, and if it can be done without taking the whole hub carrier off the car?