Gonzo12c

did you also use the NA PAS engine mount? I think this is the problem rather than belts not fitting correctly. I aslo thought you could use the NA pulley as well but it all depends if the crank pulley is stock or not as to what size belts you need.

I think i get ya otherwise i csn see this same problem occurring again with the drama of the zed lump and the issue of cooling to the rear cylinders which im sure others can back me up on. It would just be a shame to not get the waterways bored out and then fry another piston after the amount spent on the rebuild

Is the block getting sorted to cure the problem with No. 6 over heating? ie i mean getting the water ways bored out to the rear to pistons?

just read a bit on this to catch up cancel off my order as ive got a few K of parts to order in anyway so will get my bearings at same time as i casnt check what sizes i need at the moment. On your engine though im not sure what has been said already but are you planning on using parts from that fried engine and are they going to be inspected?

I got told about a black zed that was following my mums Audi TT the other day down station road who was it?

i should hope so too but it doesnt make them bomb proof. any number of things could cause them to fail and we could list possiblities all day however push an engine and you will find any weak links which you have done

could still be both seals on impellor side and seal on left turbine side which would give oil in those places. I know when the seals go oil gets everywhere in the system had this with other peoples zeds that i worked on.

trace the IC pipes as to where you have oil and look at the route will soon tell you where it is likely to be coming from. However oil in IC pipes more than likey points to tubbie seals depends what boost lines and such you have deleted and which are still there that could put oil to that side

On this i would think if you were going to prepare a slap up dinner for 2 with all the trimmings would you present it on paper plates? Maybe it is worth going that step further or risk having another engine go bang with trying to push old parts

However you dont have to spend on labour so a big chunk of cash saved there :D

However you dont have to spend on labour so a big chunk of cash saved there :D

I would say more likey the 600 figure plus. Its AEM tuning therefore alot more to offer than any plug in chip. In fact i would say Greg would be able to tune it to top the dyno board on here anyway. Why not shell out for the rest of the head upgrades with oversized valves and stuff while your at it :)

Is Sgtc old zed not the black wide arch that is being sold for 15k under a certain companies name that used to be called something else and has ripped people off before?

heads skimmed 50-100 for the pair iirc getting the bore done 140 i saw on another thread. import tax plus 20% with Z1 Mark when you import give me a shout please i need some ACL bearings for my engine build i think that is all :) cheers

just seen and replied :)

Geez i dont know how you do it ohj well may as well battle on and go better :)

shiply quotes were ridiculous so got a couple of pallet companies to get in touch with when i get back which hopefully will be no more than 50 quid. Im gonna have another NA engine for sale shortly when i break the silver shorty but its a good engine too so you see how long it took me to sell the NA engine out the slickie. They rarely break which is why they can be hard to sell. Best bet with your is sell bits off it as people have said and use the dead lump as a door stop at the end :) Oh on that there is certain people that like parts off of engines to chrome so you may make some money off it that way :)

As above cos if you look on the Z1 homepage at the blue shorty it is on the right which i thought they were all left.

Got more chance of giving it away

take radio panel off as there is 2 screws that need to come out at the bottom for the centre bits. 4 screws on piece under steering wheel. once those are off you will see the rest. Glove box has screws all over that area but you will see them you have to take the whole frame out iirc. 3 in centre console under the piece of carpet in there. As for the rear well long time since i done a LWB which i presume it is but fairly straight forward.

What material is that you have used? Looks like there is no bubbles or creases in in good job :)

LWB, HICAS, bushes, tyres it just all adds to it IMO anyway the sun is going down and its time for dinner and my weather is still better than the UK :P

Ill tell you this im alot happier with my NA rear subframe on a shorty than any LWB. The LWB i had did have HICAS so probably partly to blame for loose rear end.

Watch out for the back end stepping out in the wet with it being a LWB. I had it happen on my old LWB on a roundabout nearly caught me out

Mr Stretch can do it and i would be able to but simply wouldnt as its easier to pull the engine out with alot less hassle when you know how.